The Flat Head for Posterity

[wmarinez]

The Flat Head 50's Type 2 in Shinki Horsehide size 44. Been slightly OCD about the fit, but I think 42 would be too snug.

 

[NYDRH]

Looks like you got a good fit. I've never seen one of these in person. I like it.

I've found that there's only slight variation in fit between 40 & 42.

My biggest issue is always sleeve length when going for a little more room in the body. In general I get a get good fut from flat head which is one of the main reasons I've gravitated towards the brand. The wide shoulders work well for me.

 

[zebedee]

Am in Tokyo for a friend’s wedding and went into the Flat Head store today. Tried on a size 42 jacket and was sorely tempted to buy it. Managed to resist, but will give in next time

 

[wmarinez]

Looks like you got a good fit. I've never seen one of these in person. I like it.

I've found that there's only slight variation in fit between 40 & 42.

My biggest issue is always sleeve length when going for a little more room in the body. In general I get a get good fut from flat head which is one of the main reasons I've gravitated towards the brand. The wide shoulders work well for me.

Thanks man! I hadn't either, couldn't really resist it

 

[NYDRH]

Am in Tokyo for a friend’s wedding and went into the Flat Head store today. Tried on a size 42 jacket and was sorely tempted to buy it. Managed to resist, but will give in next time

Jealous. These days if you have any intention of buying stuff the duty free on high end items almost covers the flight.

Enjoy the wedding.

 

[zebedee]

Jealous. These days if you have any intention of buying stuff the duty free on high end items almost covers the flight.

Enjoy the wedding.

Lots of places once inside Japan offer tax free. The general prices compared to Hong Kong are low (not TFH). Second-hand houses are pretty much a steal. I may strongly consider a home here for eventual retirement. Permanent Residency has been reduced to one year. The times we live in.

 

[SyntheticWingz]

Looking over photos of my previously owned straight zip, I think it was an FN-LJ-HS001. That thing was nice, had some sitching issues that bugged me though. Comparing to my new D Pocket.

The leather was very different, much softer, shiny looking and slick to the touch, quite beautiful really. Does anyone know whether the difference is time period, leather batch, or model related?

View attachment 726750

I noticed the difference in leather and finishing as well. I had a Single riders jacket like yours and I believe it was realased at the same time as their other Double Rider, the HW001 version. That run had more of a liquid, greasy feeling which i think was tanned and finished differently than this version. That version also, while discribed as black, was more of a dark brown. The Hw004 is a true black, more in line with the Delraiser finishing or their 2nd WRJ-53B version. Man that Hw001 leather was special, just wish it was a true black.

Edit: there is a difference in the models in terms of leather, fit and price. The older 2021-2023 versions (HW001 double rider / HS001 single rider) are a Aniline finish and a bit roomier on the chest

The newest versions (HW004 / HS005) are a Semi-Aniline finishing with a slimmer cut , and tougher leather, also more expensive on the single riders.

 

[newtojackets]

I sold this one last week. It's essentially the same exact standard cross zip from flat head but with a unique color way. I know these don't get a lot of love and people prefer dark brown or straight black but I think flat head nailed the color combination better than any black and white combo I've seen from other makers.

I Genuinely feel like the flat head makes the best practical modern take on the cross zip. I used to think the version they made for selfedge without the epaulets was the best but the epaulets have really grown on me and I feel they're essential to the design and for some reason I think the std model fits better than the selfedge version(deleaiser) because of the back design. I don't care for the belt or empty belt loops so I'm glad they left that out.

Was a difficult decision to part with it but had to make some space in the closet and run out the collection. View attachment 741292

I have the same model!

 

[NYDRH]

I have the same model!

It's a really nice jacket. I am tempted to replace it with the Deerskin model one of these days.

 

[newtojackets]

It's a really nice jacket. I am tempted to replace it with the Deerskin model one of these days.

Indeed- unfortunately for me, it does have that extra narrow flathead chest, which means I would have been better a size up.

Didn’t even realise there’s a deerskin one- do you have the link?

 

[NYDRH]

Indeed- unfortunately for me, it does have that extra narrow flathead chest, which means I would have been better a size up.

Didn’t even realise there’s a deerskin one- do you have the link?

Here's a retailer selling it. There's good pics on Instagram too. Looks very nice. I have not seen it person.

The Flat Head Deerskin Double Rider's Jacket - Black

The Flat Head Deerskin Double Rider's Jacket - Black

rivetandhide.com

 

[SyntheticWingz]

7 month old HW004 starting to show some grain and tunneling. Doesn’t get any better than this!

 

[wmarinez]

Grail piece @Self Edge…TFH Single Rider

 

[Brandrea33]

View attachment 761320
Grail piece @Self Edge…TFH Single Rider

That’s a great fit!

 

[wmarinez]

That’s a great fit!

Thank you! I ended up going for it- will post some fit pics later. The leather on this thing is insane.

 

[Brandrea33]

Thank you! I ended up going for it- will post some fit pics later. The leather on this thing is insane.

Congratulations, and can’t wait to see more pictures! I owned this jacket for a short while and agree, the leather is beautiful!

 

[Rocktransformed]

I'm a long-time Flat Head fanatic (I even worked for them in Nagano from 2013-14!) Most of the clothes I regularly wear are Flat Head stuff - jeans, flannels, long and short sleeve shirts, leather jackets, wallets and other leather goods, sweatshirts, and more. I'll be sharing my little collection on here, much of it being stuff I've bought over the last few years off Japanese secondhand sites, eBay, etc., but also some things I've owned new since 2011. Feel free to ask if you've got any questions, I'll do my best to share my knowledge.

 

[Brandrea33]

I'm a long-time Flat Head fanatic (I even worked for them in Nagano from 2013-14!) Most of the clothes I regularly wear are Flat Head stuff - jeans, flannels, long and short sleeve shirts, leather jackets, wallets and other leather goods, sweatshirts, and more. I'll be sharing my little collection on here, much of it being stuff I've bought over the last few years off Japanese secondhand sites, eBay, etc., but also some things I've owned new since 2011. Feel free to ask if you've got any questions, I'll do my best to share my knowledge.

I can’t wait to see your collection.

I recently picked up this hoodie. Love it!

 

[aorange]

Does anyone know who makes The Flat Head’s boots?

I’m eyeing their engineers but I’ve got no details to work off. How do they compare to John Lofgrens or RMC’s engineers in quality? Is the leather on them comparable to their jackets?

 

[Rocktransformed]

They're made by a small workshop in Tokyo I think, but I don't know/remember more than that. Their footwear is extremely high quality and as good as Lofgren, RMC, or any other premium Japanese maker of Goodyear welted or stitchdown boots. They use mostly Horween Chromexcel and Shinki horsebutt, their Shinki hides are very similar to the Lofgren ones with a similar scaly/hexagonal texture on many pairs. (Personally, I prefer the more roll-y Maryam horsebutt of Clinch; or, if you're more inclined to an economical alternative, Wesco's Mister Lou engineers.) The horsebutt is quite a different kind of leather from what's used on the jackets, but that's pretty normal.

I had a pair of their short engineers I bought from their company store in Nagano city in 2013. Excellent pair of boots and probably the best fitting engineers I've owned. The reddish pigment was very lightly applied and the underlying color easily emerged with wear. Always regretted selling these when I went through a dumb streetwear-curious phase in about 2016-17 and sold a lot of my more Amekaji-flavored gear.