Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The Flat Head for Posterity

aorange

Familiar Face
Messages
73
Location
Seattle
They're made by a small workshop in Tokyo I think, but I don't know/remember more than that. Their footwear is extremely high quality and as good as Lofgren, RMC, or any other premium Japanese maker of Goodyear welted or stitchdown boots. They use mostly Horween Chromexcel and Shinki horsebutt, their Shinki hides are very similar to the Lofgren ones with a similar scaly/hexagonal texture on many pairs. (Personally, I prefer the more roll-y Maryam horsebutt of Clinch; or, if you're more inclined to an economical alternative, Wesco's Mister Lou engineers.) The horsebutt is quite a different kind of leather from what's used on the jackets, but that's pretty normal.

I had a pair of their short engineers I bought from their company store in Nagano city in 2013. Excellent pair of boots and probably the best fitting engineers I've owned. The reddish pigment was very lightly applied and the underlying color easily emerged with wear. Always regretted selling these when I went through a dumb streetwear-curious phase in about 2016-17 and sold a lot of my more Amekaji-flavored gear.

View attachment 762158 View attachment 762159 View attachment 762160
Wow, these look great! I'm a big fan of the dragon-hide-like look of Shinki Lofgrens, so I'll definitely check out these engineers when I'm in Tokyo, especially with how their shorter height makes them kind of look like Jodhpurs.
 

Rocktransformed

New in Town
Messages
14
Location
North Georgia
It looks like their current production boot, the FN-FB-001, has a similar height and construction details, and Shinki horsebutt uppers, albeit with a more conventional engineer toe profile and colors. I'm sure these would make a fine pair, especially if you're like me and find TFH's engineer last a better match for your foot than Lofgren's.
 

aorange

Familiar Face
Messages
73
Location
Seattle
It looks like their current production boot, the FN-FB-001, has a similar height and construction details, and Shinki horsebutt uppers, albeit with a more conventional engineer toe profile and colors. I'm sure these would make a fine pair, especially if you're like me and find TFH's engineer last a better match for your foot than Lofgren's.
Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, my wide midfoot and high-volume in-step makes the JL engineer fit like a glove. I never had any heel slip in them. I hope the Flat-heads will fit me even 80% as well.
 

Rocktransformed

New in Town
Messages
14
Location
North Georgia
Alright, let’s start with one of my favorite categories of Flat Head gear: wallet stuff.

IMG_3462.jpeg
IMG_3460.jpeg
IMG_3459.jpeg
IMG_3463.jpeg
IMG_3464.jpeg

IMG_3461.jpeg


Flat Head long wallet, key holder, and kangaroo lace wallet rope. I've had the key holder for about four years now after I ordered it direct from Flat Head, and it's seen a lot of action. The wallet was a Mercari pickup, and the rope I got from the same eBay seller who sold me the leather jacket I recently posted in the TFH thread. These feature 925 silver hand-carved conchos and D-ring, and are made by Flat Head's in-house leather workshop Stockburg in Nagano, Japan.

This is the third time I've had a Flat Head long wallet and it's easily my favorite. It looked a little dingy when I got it, but I knew it just needed some cleaning and conditioning to look great again. A wipedown, JE Sedgwick beeswax conditioner application, horsehair brushing, and cleaning off the silver parts with some polish did just the job.

Compared to the other TFH wallets I had, this is already my favorite. This one has the best interior layout, with these card slots actually being easy to use, and the zip compartment/lack of pigskin lamination on the card slots cutting down on bulkiness and weight. I really prefer Flat Head's stuffed bridle leather to the cordovan of the long wallet I had a few years ago, and the black accents and concho design really distinguish it as well. I often try to pay with cash now, especially when I'm going to a locally-owned business and that sort of thing, and it's quite easy to fetch bills and coins from a long wallet like this.

I still have not found any wallet ropes or chains I like more than these Flat Head kangaroo lace ones. They're supple and soft, with a nice drape that's superior to the stiff shape of cowhide or horsehide ropes, it's surprising to me that more makers don't make something like this; and I find the six-string box weave very nice and aesthetically pleasing as well. I don't even know if Flat Head still makes these, but I'm sure they could be special ordered. In my case, I like that the level of aging and patina between these three items coordinates this well, and unlike with denim garments I'm just fine with using "pre-loved" leather goods that already have wear and tear.

IMG_3449.jpeg


Here's an action shot with my recently acquired SRJ jacket and my 3003xx pre-lawsuit WWII jeans.
 
Last edited:

aorange

Familiar Face
Messages
73
Location
Seattle
I was at the shop in Jingumae a few days ago and the shopkeeper told me the double riders are increasing in price another 30k yen next season.

At 320k (353k with tax) yen they’re approaching RMC prices…
 

SyntheticWingz

One of the Regulars
Messages
133
I was at the shop in Jingumae a few days ago and the shopkeeper told me the double riders are increasing in price another 30k yen next season.

At 320k (353k with tax) yen they’re approaching RMC prices…
Bound to happen. IMO the leather and attention to detail surpasses even RMC in some cases.
 

aorange

Familiar Face
Messages
73
Location
Seattle
I recently picked up the HW004 in Tokyo this month. One of the (many) things that I appreciate about this jacket is the great job they did with clicking the leather. There's variance to the grain like any horsehide jacket, but the folks who put this one together seem to have taken the time to both match the grain on the left/right sides AND choose the right grain for each part of the jacket.

Here's what the jacket looks like with about 10ish days of 10+ hour wearing; forgive the bathroom background, the lighting in Seattle is quite poor this time of year.
IMG_4315.jpeg

Here's a close up of the front grain. It's generally smooth and quite firm.

front-grain.jpeg

Here's a close up of the back grain, a consistent almost wrinkly pattern that somehow still feels smooth and thick to the touch,
back-grain.jpeg

The leather of the sleeves which face towards the front is smooth, plush, and almost soft. It takes in rolls very quickly, within almost a few hours of wear.
IMG_4312.jpeg

Finally, the grain on the underside of the sleeve is very grainy and wrinkly, bumpy to the touch. The luster is somehow shinier than any other part of the jacket, and it looks almost liquid like in person.
IMG_4314.jpeg


The left and the right sides of the jacket have the same grain patterns, which greatly satisfies my OCD tendencies. Some of the other shinki jackets I saw on my trip had lovely texture and leather grain, but seemed rather carelessly clicked. Others, like Real Mccoys, had very consistent smooth and tight grain, not unlike the front of this jacket, which was quite nice if not a bit boring. In summary, I very much appreciate the controlled way that TFH leverages all of the ways horsehide grain can look, without making it feel sloppy and careless.
 
Last edited:

wmarinez

New in Town
Messages
31
They did the same with the clicking on my HS005 single riders jacket, really just an amazing piece of craftmanship. The leather breaks in so nicely just under 2 months of wear on it and the jacket has softened up a ton.
 

aorange

Familiar Face
Messages
73
Location
Seattle
For anyone on the fence about buying, Rivet and Hide is doing 15% off for the weekend, which cover Flat Head jackets. It seems like compared to other top makers like Real Mccoys, Flat Head is more willing to do business.

Based on my experience visiting the two different stores, the folks at Flat Head were definitely more eager to sell!
 

Khilij

Practically Family
Messages
516
For anyone on the fence about buying, Rivet and Hide is doing 15% off for the weekend, which cover Flat Head jackets. It seems like compared to other top makers like Real Mccoys, Flat Head is more willing to do business.

Based on my experience visiting the two different stores, the folks at Flat Head were definitely more eager to sell!
This kicked me over the edge. Thank you so much for the heads up!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
114,464
Messages
3,175,157
Members
58,308
Latest member
Truthe Trust Love
Top