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Grades of Shinki

ProfG

One of the Regulars
Messages
111
I have heard that the Shinki tannery produces different 'grades' of Shinki HH. Not all Shinki is equal - some Japanese jacket makers get a first go at the hides, and the hides which they choose not to use are then sold on the broader market. Is that true? If so, what determines the quality of the Shinki HH which you encounter in the wild? I am considering Shinki HH for my next custom order from JL, but I am not sure how good their Shinki HH is.
 

codex

Familiar Face
Messages
90
Johnson uses this:

 

cbez

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,462
Location
CA
it's probably more like the japanese brands get first dibs on new stuff or unique recipes, might get custom batches made for them. after all they are visiting the tannery, going to the same trade events, etc.

it's not like 'lets make a bunch of ****ty leather and send it to the americans'
 

dinhnguyen57

A-List Customer
Messages
305
Location
California
I’ve never heard or read of “bad” Shinki leather so I think whatever jacket you‘ll get, it’ll be ok.

there are some with more grain than others. And whether the leather pieces all match up may be more of a concern, but I am sure any reputable maker are mindful of that.
 

Tom71

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,945
Location
Europe
Ok, so Shinki is a tannery, like Horween or many lesser known shops. That means they offer a huge variety of hides in different tannages, finishes, overdyes etc.

Of course, some of those will come in smaller or smallest batches, so in terms of supply and demand there will be "A-tier-customers" getting preferential treatment in the sense that they get to offer some hides more or less exclusively.

Other hides are produced in large quantities to meet the ww demand, altough they may be marketed by makers like Himel, Field, Schott etc. under different names.
I wouldn´t rule out the possibility that Shinki will occasionally sell second grade hides (with deficiencies in the hide or even the process) at a discount and that the jacket maker still relies on the label"Shinki", but I do NOT believe that Shinki has a policy to issue hides of a lesser quality as their default overseas product.
 

Zoro

Practically Family
Messages
698
Location
Europe
I think Tom is correct here.

In the same way that Horween may have CXL steerhide, CXLFQHH or Pinnacle, neither of this being better or worse than the other, Shinki will do the same storing different leathers.
 

dmash

New in Town
Messages
16
I'm not an expert on the subject to definitively say the 'grades' used. but what I *can* say is that the Shinki I've personally felt on my Flat Heads as well as my Buco J100 were a cut above other Shinki jackets I've touched. I'm not sure if makers pay a premium, or certain vendors get access to better 'grades' as you mentioned, but to me there was definitely a difference. FH and Buco are 2 of my favorite makers because of this.

But I will reiterate something mentioned above, that ANY Shinki jacket still feels quality though. I've never felt a Shinki jacket and been displeased with what I felt.
 

dinhnguyen57

A-List Customer
Messages
305
Location
California
I think if you are looking to pick out the leather for your next jacket, and want Shinki, you can't go wrong. I've only heard good things about Johnson Leather. Ask yourself what characteristic would you want from the leather, thick or thin? Black or brown or red? Cowhide, steerhide, sheep, horsehide, buffalo hide? Lots of grain or little grain? Pigmented, or aniline or semi-aniline? if you want Shinki, they make different leather, such as horsehide, cowhide, deerskin, etc. Some hides will have a lot of graining while others with little graining.

I bought a Field Leathers jacket a couple years ago with the most graining of all the jackets that I've own. I've had a Delraiser and a RM J100 that were quite smooth.

All the tanneries can shave the leathers to be thinner, so consider how think you want the leather to be. I personally would get a thicker leather if I was using it to ride a bike, otherwise, I've found thinner leathers to be so much more comfortable

What I am saying is Shinki is always good, but focus on the different characteristics of the leather, rather than some quality scale.

Here was an old ad of my Filed Leathers for sale here in 2024. It was too small and I ended up giving it to my brother. Check out the grain on the jacket

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...inki-horsehide-leather-jacket-size-38.115665/
 

Aloysius

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,673
Half of this stuff is assumed by people on servers and Reddit to grant a sense of mystique to something fairly mundane. It can't just be a tannery that produces hides (including some cheap and bad utilitarian leathers lol); it has to be some kind of Lady of the Lake dispensing the one true horsehide to the the rightful maker.
 

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