Choosing overcoat size/fit if I don't wear a suit?

[JohannesClimacus]

I am looking for a wool overcoat, possibly a vintage one, but I rarely wear suits or sport coats. Therefore, I need an overcoat that will look like it fits well while I have a polo or dress shirt underneath.

How do I determine fit for this? I have a size 40 chest - should I size down? If so, how much? Do I need to look for a specific shoulder structure, especially for vintage coats which would have always been sized for people wearing suiting? If I need a specific structure, photo examples would be tremendously helpful.

 

[zebedee]

Yes, size down. I have a camel-coloured wool overcoat that I wear over a shirt and it’s a smaller size then the ones I wear over suits. Your best bet is a tailor-made one: ones for sale in stores are usually constructed with suits underneath in mind.

 

[Steve S]

I am the same. I rarely wear suits or sports coats but do like to wear an overcoat in winter and layer underneath. I find that if I go by my preferred chest size and then add a little room the fit is decent. Overcoats are usually larger in the shoulder dimensions than the traditional jumper, jacket etc.

Or you could go for an overcoat style with raglan sleeves and find one with a suitable chest measurement. My recent example was with a vintage filson double mack which I sized for the preferred chest size (with layers) and the shoulders worked for me. I have a size 44 chest and the vintage filson was a size 44 (so it would be TTS) but doesnt wear massive when layered appropriately. If I went for a 42 it would be a better fit with less layers underneath.

 

[Aloysius]

Bad idea to size down accordingly. Get one that would fit you in a suit, but that has an adjustable belted back. That way you can cinch it in. If anything it improves the silhouette.