nick123
I'll Lock Up
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This is something I struggle with a bit in understanding - in layman's terms, what is the difference between chromexel and chrome tanning? I'm sure I remember reading that my Schott 618 is chrome-tanned. I suppose I'm asking not about the technical processes (which have been discussed before), but what exactly is the difference from an end-product pov?
It's interesting how the market went there. Back around the time AL must have been set up, all anyone seemed to be interested in was Horween FQHH, but by the time AL had reached an understanding with Horween and gotten the variation of Horween horse they use, it seemed that the market had largely moved on and many other hides had become just as popular. I think goat seems to be the big one on the rise these days.
Chrome tanning is one process. CXL undergoes both a vegetable and chrome tan=combination tanned, with some extra finishing steps that is unique to Horween I think. My understanding is that that extra vegetable tanning stage in the CXL is what allows the leather to age so nicely and contributes to its pleasing natural look, rather than just being flat colored. It's the middle visual result. On the left you have a completely vegetable tanned jacket that looks very natural and organic (think Italian horsehide) and on the right you have an 80s Air Force A-2 (very flat/one color-why a FQHH jacket looks a tad bit more processed than say a Vicenza). It is also stuffed with these oils and waxes, (pull up leather), so when the jacket gets worn certain areas will become discolored. I think the CXL was an attempt to bring in the benefits of both chrome (robustness) and vegetable (aesthetics) tanning together. That's how I read it anyhow.
There are different finishing steps in other leathers that make a difference in appearance as well. You can have a completely chrome tanned jacket with no pigment added, which will still bring out the leather's natural variances because there's no pigment covering the leather. So it might not always be easy to tell the difference between chrome/veg. If my analysis is dead wrong correct me!
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