Show Us Your OVERCOATS

[RobStC]

:eusa_clap:eusa_clap Lovely looking coat, Dinerman - can't go wrong with a classic like this one. Hopefully feels as good to wear as the ad implies!

 

[Dinerman]

Thanks! It's very warm. Contrary to what the ad and label says, however, it's very heavy.

 

[Annixter]

Overcoat Advice

I made a nice find today and need some advice on dating the overcoat and on whether or not it's worth the money to have tailored.

First, I have plenty of photos below. It's a very heavy coat and appears to be well made. No major damage exists, but there is an area of pilling on the lower front, but only five or six strands. There are also a handful of moth nibbles, but they are smaller and would probably go away if I spent some time spreading the fibers in that area or gluing in fibers after removing some from inside. There is also what appears to be an oil streak running for about 3 inches and 1/4 inch wide at the bottom of one side that I'm not sure if I can get out or if a dry cleaner can. There is also a very small area on each cuff where the herringbone pattern has separated from wear, but no holes or frayed fabric. Other than these blemishes, the stitching is all intact, no tears, or any other major damage.

Now for my questions. The label says, "Tyrolean Coating Bond Clothes Tailored in Rochester. I found a reference at the University at Rochester that says the Bond manufacturing plant in Rochester opened in 1933 and closed sometime in the mid 1950s. When at the thrift store before I knew this information, I thought that the cut, lapels, and overall quality placed it somewhere in the early 1940s (but wouldn't think they'd make something this heavy during WWII rationing), but I am not good at dating such things and have an inkling it could be 50s as well. I found a deteriorating union label loose in the inside pocket, and I've read here that the red lettering is often found on older labels (see photo). Any input on its vintage?

As for my question regarding whether or not I should proceed with tailoring: the shoulder width, sleeve length, overall length, and upper chest fit me perfectly. However, I will need to have the sides taken in about an inch on each side and maybe the back taken in to compensate for flaring. My local tailor did a similar procedure to another overcoat for me, and it will run about $35. I paid a whopping $8 for the coat. So before I have it dry cleaned and tailored, I wanted to get your opinions on if you thought an overcoat of this vintage and quality with the above damage is worth around $60 or $70 (after dry cleaning and tailoring) or if you think my money would be better spent passing this off to a Lounge member who has a larger chest/stomach and hunting down something else. The money seems worth it to me for this overcoat, and I'm perfectly fine with the blemishes because they will only show if one were to scrutinize the overcoat. However, I'd rather not spend money foolishly at this time--maybe at another. Thanks for the input.

Back of cuff and showing side seam detail.

 

[Two Types]

Lovely coat. Do you really need to alter it? If it fits on the top half, then I would consider that to be fine - that's the shape the coat is supposed to be.
Why not post a photo of yourself wearing it? Then you can gauge whether people think it fits well enough already.

As to the cost: Sitting here in the UK, a good quality overcoat in good condition for that price (post-tailoring) seems quite reasonable.

Nice colour, as well.

 

[feltfan]

You can certainly pass that gorgeous Bond overcoat to me if it's big enough.
But I think you'll find that the sum you're discussing is a fraction of what you'd pay for
a garment of comparable function at a hideously poor quality outlet like Burlington Coat
Factory, let alone a quality overcoat.

 

[Annixter]

Do you really need to alter it? If it fits on the top half, then I would consider that to be fine - that's the shape the coat is supposed to be.

But I think you'll find that the sum you're discussing is a fraction of what you'd pay for
a garment of comparable function at a hideously poor quality outlet like Burlington Coat
Factory, let alone a quality overcoat.

Thanks for the replies. Two Types, you are probably correct on the cut; it does fit fine, but the back bottom flares out more than I like (I like a closer fit on overcoats). However, it might need a little wearing to drape better. I will post pictures of me wearing it soon.

The coat was so dirty that I ended up giving it a gentle bath in the tub with Dawn detergent (the best stuff to use on wool I've read), and boy was it filthy. It took a couple hours of soaking and pressing and about five baths of rinsing to clear it. It's been lying flat on a clothes rack for a couple days now, and I think the fibers are dry enough today to hang to complete drying.

 

[The Good]

I wanted to get it in this thread. Here's a couple of pictures of my new Hart Schaffner and Marx overcoat, probably vintage, and I was able to get it for only $17.00 dollars. Does it look OK, or too big?

 

[mjd]

I wanted to get it in this thread. Here's a couple of pictures of my new Hart Schaffner and Marx overcoat, probably vintage, and I was able to get it for only $17.00 dollars. Does it look OK, or too big?

looks great!

 

[Two Types]

I found this overcoat at the weekend. It's from Belgium and would appear to be Alpaca/Llama (judgng from the picture on the label). It is wonderfully soft and appears to have been made for autumn wear since it is rather lightweight.

I've no idea what date it would be. The llama label makes me think 1950s, but it might be earlier.

For some reason it appears to be strangely lumpy under teh right arm. No idea why - it wasn't like that when i looked in the mirror.

 

[esteban68]

looks good to me, almost perfect fit TG!
TT that's rather nice and fits well , love the labels...I need to get a lighterweight overcoat as all mine are heavy beasts!

 

[freakersea]

hey guys just bought my first overcoat, its german, very long almost down to my ankles. It appears to be very well made has brown leather edging at the end of the sleeves and along the edge of the pockets, it has two very large low pockets aswell as an angled smaller pocket higher up on the left side. The buttons when done up are obscured as the button holes are on a seperate piece of fabric to the main outer coat, the buttons are also anchored on the inside with a smaller button piece. At the bottom of the back there is a series of buttons and the coat is shaped to seperate (im guessing for if you are horse riding?) The label inside says sonderanfirtigung for Peek & Cloppenburg and the tag inside the inner pocket says

P.N :28064
T.S.:00314
PP0D.AUFTRAG: 27
KUNDE: P&C SONDER
FORM: 21382 390 00
ARTIKEL:AROSA
T K Z: 70%SW 30%PL

70% SCHURWOLLE
30%POLYESTER
FUTTER: 100% VISCOSE

and the size is 102

the shape and style doesnt appear modern however the inner tag doesnt look vintage or anything, a little bit of research found that Peek&Cloppenburg have been around since 1900 but are still around so could be old could be modern if anyone could utilise the info i have provided for an aproximate date it would be nice paid AUD 65 so dont mind if its old or new either way

 

[Dinerman]

 

[Chasseur]

WOW Dinerman, you have some overcoats to die for!

Here is one I'm considering getting rid of. Excellent, almost mint condition Aquascutum Chesterfield coat, vintage circa 1980s I think. Double breasted, velvet collar, and lovely almost black herringbone tweed. If the sleeves where about 1" longer I'd keep it.

 

[ukali1066]

Here's mine, used vintage brown tweed....not the best pic but it's the only one I have...nice Raglan sleeves

 

[splintercellsz]

1930's Harris Tweed Overcoat. I paid around $34 for it, and it's in pretty good condition with only one tear. Not too shure if anyone know how to properly date it, as I tried the HTA and they said that due to the sheer number of requests, they could not help [huh]. In one of the photos, you see the numbers "11730", so I am unsure as to if that could be 11/07/1930 (one could dream!) And what do ya'll think of altering the sleeves to fit? They are a little bit short for me, but I may leave them, as to not mess with the fine threadwork of the day.

 

[Dinerman]

That style coat was popular from the late 1940s through the 1960s. The width of the lapels and the label make me think mid 1950s. I'll see if I can dig up when they started using that label. The coat is definitely later than the '30s, though.
If there is material to do so, I would get the sleeves lengthened and the adjustment straps moved, as the sleeves look to be significantly short.

As a point of reference, here is a tag from a 1937 dated Richman overcoat.

 

[splintercellsz]

Thank you Dinnerman! But on the Vintage Fashion Guild, the label for the Harris Tweed matches the one from the 30's? (I am not sure as to how reliable this website is). So, if that is true, could someone have done a weird label swap, or could it have been NOS, and given to a more modern Richman Bros. store, and then that label was put on?

Any idea on when the silverish Richman Bros. label came around, as I can't find any that match it?

http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/harris-tweed/

 

[Worf]

Leather Car Coat acquired from here last year

Worf

 

[splintercellsz]

Very nice, Worf!!

 

[jps79]

Impressive!
Good chosen angle for the picture