Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[tmitchell59]

An absolute beauty. Are the sleeve knits original out of interest? I haven't seen them on a comparable jacket before.

yes, original

 

[wishper]

Hi Joe.Do you have a photo of the 1939 Californian jacket's label? I have one that looks identical to yours, but I'm not sure about the brand.

 

[jeo]

Got this beaut in the mail today. 50s windward from a lady whose grandpa had purchased it in the 50s! The letter states that it was his first big purchase and he wore it any chance he could get. Definitely sounds like he was a cool dude! Was also surprised to find stars were in the coin pocket.
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Rabbits paw with inscribed “lucky charm” :
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Before cleaning up the jacket:
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Nice Windward. This one was made by Wolf Outerwear

Here is one i bought a while back. 40s (hercules?) half belt. I was told when purchasing it that it is potentially from Hercules. The fit is slightly larger than id like but the leather more than makes up for it!
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I somehow missed this one. It’s not a Hercules. It was made by Minnesota Woolen Co, and likely had an “Alaskan” label. Beautiful jacket.

Another one ive had for a while now. Early 40s Californian horsehide half belt. Wartime stop box. Unfortunately the zipper bottom tore off so it can no longer zip up. Still a great fit regardless
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Spectacular! Don’t think I’ve seen this particular variant of a CSC half belt.

 

[jeo]

Hi Joe.Do you have a photo of the 1939 Californian jacket's label? I have one that looks identical to yours, but I'm not sure about the brand.

Can you share a picture of yours?

 

[wishper]

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Can you share a picture of yours?

Thx! This is my jacket. Unfortunately, the label and lining are already missing, and the buttons on the pocket flaps have been replaced. Also, could you tell me whether this is made of cowhide

or horsehide?I have another question: did this label design appear in the 1930s?

 

[jeo]

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Thx! This is my jacket. Unfortunately, the label and lining are already missing, and the buttons on the pocket flaps have been replaced. Also, could you tell me whether this is made of cowhide View attachment 734539 or horsehide?I have another question: did this label design appear in the 1930s?

Thanks for sharing, it’s beautiful! A very rare jacket. Please let me know if you’re ever thinking about selling it.

Your jacket is likely horsehide. CSC steerhide and cowhide jackets first appeared in the 50’s, your jacket is late 30’s. It might be calf but it looks more like horse to me (or maybe pony).

That particular label is their selected cowhide label which appeared in the 50’s.

The Californian labels did first appear in the 30’s though. Most of them were horsehide and didn’t have a leather designation and were usually accompanied by a small black horsehide label.

There are also 30’s CSC jackets with the Californian label that designate a leather type. I’ve seen washable goatskin, ponyhide and washable calfskin.

30’s CSC Cossack in calf

Late 30’s CSC half belt in pony

Late 30’s/early 40’s goatskin CSC

Their selected horsehide label also seems to only first appear in the 50’s

 

[wishper]

Thanks for sharing, it’s beautiful! A very rare jacket. Please let me know if you’re ever thinking about selling it.

Your jacket is likely horsehide. CSC steerhide and cowhide jackets first appeared in the 50’s, your jacket is late 30’s. It might be calf but it looks more like horse to me (or maybe pony).

That particular label is their selected cowhide label which appeared in the 50’s.

The Californian labels did first appear in the 30’s though. Most of them were horsehide and didn’t have a leather designation and were usually accompanied by a small black horsehide label.

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There are also 30’s CSC jackets with the Californian label that designate a leather type. I’ve seen washable goatskin, ponyhide and washable calfskin.

30’s CSC Cossack in calf

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Late 30’s CSC half belt in pony

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Late 30’s/early 40’s goatskin CSC

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Their selected horsehide label also seems to only first appear in the 50’s

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Thank you for your answer! Very professional! I just bought this item and am planning to have it restored and maintained soon. Sorry, I'm not planning to sell it at the moment. I have another question for you: did this lable exist in the 1930s? Could it be applied to this jacket?

 

[jeo]

Thank you for your answer! Very professional! I just bought this item and am planning to have it restored and maintained soon. Sorry, I'm not planning to sell it at the moment. I have another question for you: did this lable exist in the 1930s? Could it be applied to this jacket?

I guess you didn’t read my last post.

 

[wishper]

I guess you didn’t read my last post.

I'm sorry, I've seen your answer. Generally, jackets from the 1930s did not have the type of leather used marked on the tag. The photo I just attached and the tag on your jacket have some differences, so I wanted to ask if this one is also from the 1930s.

 

[jeo]

I'm sorry, I've seen your answer. Generally, jackets from the 1930s did not have the type of leather used marked on the tag. The photo I just attached and the tag on your jacket have some differences, so I wanted to ask if this one is also from the 1930s. View attachment 734707

No. Do you have the earlier label? If not, that one is fine since you’re restoring the jacket and other elements aren’t going to be original either.

 

[Woolwonders]

Nice Windward. This one was made by Wolf Outerwear



I somehow missed this one. It’s not a Hercules. It was made by Minnesota Woolen Co, and likely had an “Alaskan” label. Beautiful jacket.



Spectacular! Don’t think I’ve seen this particular variant of a CSC half belt.

Thank you for the input! Im especially intrigued in hearing your take on the unlabeled what was thought to be hercules.

What are some of the telltale signs that led to your conclusion to it being Minnesota woolen? I love learning about the specific details and all the intricacies these jackets can have that can help identify makers!

 

[jeo]

Thank you for the input! Im especially intrigued in hearing your take on the unlabeled what was thought to be hercules.

What are some of the telltale signs that led to your conclusion to it being Minnesota woolen? I love learning about the specific details and all the intricacies these jackets can have that can help identify makers!

The pocket construction and the cuffs.

Here are a couple jackets with the Alaskan label.

Minnesota Woolen jackets typically have an extra row of stitching above chest pockets, a unique half belt construction where the buckles are located on the back panel and not the side panels and also usually have a back design that looks like the iconic Hercules. Key word being “typically” as I’ve seen MW jackets that do not have these features such as yours.

 

[Woolwonders]

The pocket construction and the cuffs.

Here are a couple jackets with the Alaskan label.

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Minnesota Woolen jackets typically have an extra row of stitching above chest pockets, a unique half belt construction where the buckles are located on the back panel and not the side panels and also usually have a back design that looks like the iconic Hercules. Key word being “typically” as I’ve seen MW jackets that do not have these features such as yours.


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Seems the cuffs add up in design, however it seems mine doesn't have the extra stitching above the chest pocket. Could it be that some MWC/alaskan jackets didn't feature the extra line of stitching? Seems like a feature they wouldn't skip out on.

Regardless I appreciate the information! It definitely helps building an idea around the jacket.

 

[jeo]

Could it be that some MWC/alaskan jackets didn't feature the extra line of stitching?

Yes, here are two examples. They also don’t have that typical half belt construction.

 

[tmitchell59]

A great gallery of beauties! All in such fine looking condition. I've never handled this brand, they look amazing. Their take on the Aviator style is striking.

Think of the designer of these jackets, they were the originals. They competed with each other with, what may have been, limited knowledge of other makers styles. These were cutting edge jackets of the day. They have stood the test of time.

The Aviator style faded away after the war, late 40s The A2 continued with every maker doing a civilian model. As the civilian cross zip Aviator faded the cross zip MC boom began.

 

[jchance]

It seems to me that suede jackets are not popular at all on eBay. They are priced really cheap. I routinely see Californian suede for sale less than $100. Are the 1950s and earlier suede jackets made from horsehide? Any reasons for their lack of popularity?

 

[tmitchell59]

It seems to me that suede jackets are not popular at all on eBay. They are priced really cheap. I routinely see Californian suede for sale less than $100. Are the 1950s and earlier suede jackets made from horsehide? Any reasons for their lack of popularity?

I'm like most people, i see suede as delicate, easy to damage, nice to look at, but. I have seen some very interesting suedes on ebay, but they are typically wasted condition. My favorite probably even rarest suede jacket.I forgot about! I didn't have pictures of it and didn't remember it. HeyHigh quality suede jacket will bring good money, they just don't show up.

 

[tmitchell59]

This Suede just showed up. Admiral Byrd, zipper dated 1938.

This combination is a 3 stamp Talon with the extra engraving on pull assembly. This combination is a safe bet to be from 1938 as this one is. C8.

Roughwear Clothing was using this label in this time, The label is also seen in conjunction with a Montgomery Ward Windward label.

The Vest is beautiful and in excellent condition and fits me.

 

[jchance]

I'm like most people, i see suede as delicate, easy to damage, nice to look at, but. I have seen some very interesting suedes on ebay, but they are typically wasted condition. My favorite probably even rarest suede jacket.I forgot about! I didn't have pictures of it and didn't remember it. HeyHigh quality suede jacket will bring good money, they just don't show up.

Suede, while is easy to become dirty, can be also easily redyed into a slightly darker color for another life. What I like about suede is that seller usually doesn’t know how to price suede jackets because the sold suede jackets are so abysmally low, to the extent the seller wants to sell the suede jackets at market price (based on prior sold prices).

Idk how to distinguish between high quality suede jackets vs lower quality suede jackets, but I assume good brands of leather jackets (CSC, RP, etc.) make good suede jackets.

 

[tmitchell59]

I doubt Horsehide was used too often in suede jackets. They appear to be goatskin from the inside. Not sure how one is better than the other.

The suedes I own are clean enough to wear out. They show up, but most folks are intimidated or just don't like suede style. I don't even wear them often.

I don't believe there would be a quality issue in the 30s/40s jackets. They were all made by a few companies with different brand labels. There were not a lot of cheap leather jackets in that time.

Finding a clean suede is the challenge. They do show up.