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Used Boots / Best Way to Sanitize?

Trouser Bark

Banned
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640
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Your Cerebral Cortex
I have several pair of boots I've bought 2nd hand over the years and no doubt more to come. It has crossed my mind that there's a step I'm ignoring and although I'd like to disinfect I don't know what the best way to do that might be. My next pair will be Wesco Boss boots and a used pair usually doesn't have the appearance of excessive wear as the boots are so stout... but they'll often have been worn a lot, sweated in plenty and the perfect environment for some sort of gross pathogen. Any suggestions from those in the know?
 

tamoko

One of the Regulars
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125
Location
swiss
Ozone, but pay attention.
Check how this work. This only one think wich really works if you make all correct will be not destructive.
All chemical will be destructive to the original material.
 
Messages
11,662
Location
Alabama
For every pair of used boots I've bought, I cleaned the boots inside and out using a solution of warm water and a low alkaline or ph neutral dish soap and rinse the soap off well. I use Ivory. Air dry.
 

Ernest P Shackleton

One Too Many
Messages
1,280
Location
Midwest
I agree with ozone, though I don't have an ozone chamber myself. you might call around to see if anyone offers the service. I've heard of people making their own for razors, tobacco pipes, kitchen gear, and other things. Doesn't sound too expensive either.

Sunlight is a disinfectant, but it doesn't get inside the boot/shoe well, and in this case, if you don't get it all, you might as well not bother with any of it.

I've used Lysol solution with a sponge, and then condition both inside and out with Lexol (Inside) and Obenaufs (outside).
 

raf

One of the Regulars
Messages
241
Ozone will work, but always best to clean the items first, since ozone will not remove dirt/stains.

The way to do this is to put the cleaned, and dry items at the bottom of a large box (with taped-up bottom seams), place the ozone generator on an elevated platform inside the box, and fire it up. Ozone is heavier than air, and as ozone level rises and reaches the ozone generator, it should automatically shut off due to lack of oxygen. Verify that your ozone generator has this feature, please. If the boots are "tallish", tip them on their sides, with their openings facing ozone generator's output.

Do not expose pets, vegetation, and/or yourself to the Ozone--plan ahead and do it safely. Ozone contact with your skin/eyes is OK but avoid breathing it in high concentration.

For larger items, such as jackets, clean them and spread them out inside a car. Place ozone generator on top of console and run its wire out through side door window. Stuff the slightly opened window with plastic bags, etc. Run generator and allow some time for ozone to work--as in hours. You may need to access the item being treated through another door to flip it over or turn it inside out as ozone will need to reach all surfaces to do its magic. Don't breathe the ozone while doing this and re-start the ozone generator again. Bonus is that your car's interior will be rid of insects, mildew, and most odors afterwards. Air the car and trunk out well.
 
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Trouser Bark

Banned
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640
Location
Your Cerebral Cortex
I don't have an ozone generator but would like to try this. I've ordered several aerosol cans of Ozium; ozone in a can. My plan is to put a couple pairs of my boots in my wife's SUV along with a battery powered fan to circulate the ozone. I might orient the fan directly down the shaft of the boots to be sanitized and lay them on their side to best take advantage of the heavier gas.

My concern is that I don't want a long enough exposure or too much of an ozone rich exposure such that either the truck or the boots get damaged. Is there a rule of thumb for this?

I'll post up the results once done.

The ozone I have en route to me now is this:

81SqniPZcRL._AC_SX425_PIbundle-4,TopRight,0,0_SH20_.jpg
 

raf

One of the Regulars
Messages
241
Effect of Ozone on various materials: https://ozonesolutions.com/blog/ozone-compatible-materials/

From searching, Ozone can potentially damage leather, wool, and nylon fabric, all of which are/may be present in leather jackets and footwear. The deleterious effect of Ozone has to do with both the concentration of Ozone, and the duration of Oxone exposure. For the purpose at hand, namely disinfecting boots and leather jackets, I suggest running the ozone generator for maybe an hour inside a car, then removing the treated items and completely venting the car, opening all windows, doors, trunk lid, etc.
Drive around for a while after initial venting to diminish Oxone smell; variable responses about whether ozone smell is "objectionable" or not.

Effects of Ozone on leather can usually be remedied by application of a suitable leather conditioner, which counteracts the "drying" effect of Ozone on leather. Possibly not required.

I have done the above with no obvious negative effects, but your experience may differ.
 

Ernest P Shackleton

One Too Many
Messages
1,280
Location
Midwest
Good info on ozone here. Thanks. I'd just come to grips with the fact that you're not going to get around having to recondition the leather. If a used item, you most likely want to do that anyway, so you're not adding to the labor.
 

Nick in London

New in Town
Messages
31
As a substitute for sunlight I have used a UV-C light bulb. I'm not great at science so I stand to be corrected on all of this, but UV-C kills all fungus and bacteria and you can stick the bulb right inside a boot and zap the toe area. There's a bit of heat, but theoretically the bugs are killed very fast, so you don't need to put the bulb in there for long. Try not to look at the bulb - I fix some cardboard to the bulb holder so the rays only go forwards, if you see what I mean.
 
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raf

One of the Regulars
Messages
241
UV-C light is a unique suggestion, and interesting. Unlike a gas such as Ozone, which can seep into crevices, UV-C will only reach those areas that are so-illuminated. I know that there are water purification devices which use UV-C light to kill micro-organisms in the water. Utility of UV water purifier is vastly increased by straining water through a couple of pre-filters, and then some coffee filters. This allows contaminants (particulates) in the water to be removed prior to UV treatment. Still, UV light can disinfect water from bacteria, fungus, mold, and viruses if done right. The longer applied, the better.

Those interested in UV-C application within boots/shoes might consider a "water-purifier" as a source, which might come in handy for water treatment; nothing like a dual-use device, so long as you understand to use it. Congrats for "thinking outside the box"!

ETA: "The UV-C treatment of water typically takes anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours, depending on various factors such as water clarity, flow rate, and UV intensity." IMHO, and non-expert opinion, UV-C treatment will kill all offending orgs which the UV-C light will illuminate. Orgs not illuminated (killed) by the UV-C light will be unaffected, including orgs situated within the leather or other material.
 
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Nick in London

New in Town
Messages
31
I'm glad you like the UV-C bulb idea. I got it from a camera forum. People use it to kill mould inside lenses which have been stored in a damp environment. It's very cheap and incredibly easy. And you can also use it on anything else which has gone stinky. Maybe a kid's shoes or football boots or a carpet with pee on it or corners inside your car where something has spilled. Or when a cat or fox has sprayed on your garden furniture. It's better than buying no end of cleaning products and spraying them.
 

raf

One of the Regulars
Messages
241
I wouldn't say I "like" the UV-C light application, as it has some inherent limitations. I think it's a useful suggestion, and IMHO, you are to be commended for original thinking.

Frankly, I would use 91% alcohol inside the boots to wipe-down/clean the innards from dirt and grime and immediately flood the innards of the boots with a mixture of 20% unscented bleach/80% distilled water. Allow to soak-in for a while, then flood innards of boots with water. Put them on wet, with appropriate sox, and wear them all day, allowing them to fully dry afterwards for as long as it takes. Re-apply leather conditioner, both inside and out as appropriate. Blowing warm, not hot, air into the boots will help.
 
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Nick in London

New in Town
Messages
31
Not many people want to fill their boots with water and wear them wet all day. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's done it. How many times have you done it?
 

raf

One of the Regulars
Messages
241
Not many people want to fill their boots with water and wear them wet all day. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's done it. How many times have you done it?
People have been wetting the insides of their boots to break them in for ages.
 

Zoro

Practically Family
Messages
708
Location
Europe
Many football (soccer) players have been soaking their boots precisely for that. Different purpose, leather, etc, but same principle.
 

Ernest P Shackleton

One Too Many
Messages
1,280
Location
Midwest
Isopropyl alcohol is problematic because it is a mild solvent, and it would almost certainly affect the dye of the leather, the adhesives in making the item, and dry out the leather even more than water/sanitizing solution will. Proceed with great caution if you're using ISO. It'll certainly kill things, but I don't think this is the application for it.

A 10% bleach solution/water is used in food situations, but it too can damage color, the leather itself, etc. I wash my sneakers in the washing machine with bleach, so I'm not against it. It's not something I would do to an all-leather garment. This is why I use Lysol rather than bleach. But make no mistake, it too can dry out leather more than just water. It's just not nearly as potentially damaging as bleach. It doesn't break down fabrics/fibers as violently, and it has never [for me] discolored anything. You can buy 32oz of Lysol for around $3, and then follow the directions to make a sanitizing solution. It's not a perfect remedy, and next to ozone, it probably does the least damage to the various materials.

I really think ozone is the way to go for leather, wood, and other situations with nooks and "sealed" spaces etc.
 
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twentyfiveshells

Familiar Face
Messages
79
I don't have an ozone generator but would like to try this. I've ordered several aerosol cans of Ozium; ozone in a can. My plan is to put a couple pairs of my boots in my wife's SUV along with a battery powered fan to circulate the ozone. I might orient the fan directly down the shaft of the boots to be sanitized and lay them on their side to best take advantage of the heavier gas.

My concern is that I don't want a long enough exposure or too much of an ozone rich exposure such that either the truck or the boots get damaged. Is there a rule of thumb for this?

I'll post up the results once done.

The ozone I have en route to me now is this:

81SqniPZcRL._AC_SX425_PIbundle-4,TopRight,0,0_SH20_.jpg
Great stuff.
 

twentyfiveshells

Familiar Face
Messages
79
It looks like just the ticket. I haven’t used it but I bet that’s a great way to go…I would not want to fill a shoe with water and soap unless I was going to dry it immediately with fans. The sun would be too much heat, and near a heater would risk drying the leather. I don’t buy shoes that are anything but new, or barely used. And I mean like barely. I’m hunting for someone’s sizing error and didn’t return them. That’s just me though. I am settled for shoes for a while though. Six pairs leather I have covered most of my desires, and all of my needs.

Tried it before? Any concerns you're familiar with?
 

Trouser Bark

Banned
Messages
640
Location
Your Cerebral Cortex
I've got a pair of Wesco and a pair of Chippewa boots en route. I'd have normally risked a raging case of athlete's foot but this time no... I"ll instead risk my wife's vehicle!

Review to follow. I almost home one of the pairs arrives stinky. Not really though.
 

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