Under the radar grail-level boots?

[JohannesClimacus]

Looking for ultra high quality boot makers who are less known. I recently got a pair of kudu Stefano Bemers and I love them (pics attached), but they have a distinctly Italian vibe. I want another pair that is more rugged. Think, Viberg service boot style, but from a maker with bespoke-level capabilities or offerings. Any suggestions?

 

[Guppy]

Kreosote, Flame Panda.

 

[Modified_last_call]

Iron Boots could be an option.
A lot of customization with their MTO offerings and some interesting make ups with Ostmo X

 

[AeroFan_07]

Just scroll down this page (Sponsors to Stich down Boot Camp for 2025) and you likely will find a fit:
https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/sponsors-2025

 

[Zoro]

Kreosote

I don't think I would dare to even consider them after what happened to this buyer. Thankfully he ultimately got the refund, but after what seemed like a very long process.

 

[cbez]

Kreosote, Flame Panda.

Yeah if you want to pay full and not have your boots 24 months later.

My recs would be addict boots and argo from japan.

 

[cbez]

Unsung house is another one that looks pretty good.

 

[Nick in London]

John Lobb https://www.johnlobb.com/en_us/shoes/shoes-boots

You did say grail...

 

[DweezilMac]

I'd second the Flame panda and Iron Boots suggestions, though Iron boots seem to be doing more GMTO & RTW these days... I don't think Addict will do custom and their lasts (from personal experience and what I read elsewhere) are low volume, so if you've high arches/instep (like me), beware. But if non-custom is applicable then another Japanese maker to consider = Rolling Dub Trio - I've some of their Roots boots, and Engineer's - different designs, super quality and on a Munson type anatomical last - so you know what you're getting your feet into!

Top notch Indonesian maker = Onderhoud - I'd suggest on a par quality-wise with most of the other suggestions and a bit more affordable if that factors...

Else Bad Hat Brothers in Korea - I've a pair of Monkey Boots in shrunken bison from them, different and excellently made. They've some excellent service boot models, that should be in line with what you're seeking - you can find them on their instagram. Waitlist entirely sensible too.
https://www.instagram.com/badhatbrothers?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==
or
https://www.instagram.com/yuriccino?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==

 

[DogFacePonySoldier]

I don't think I would dare to even consider them after what happened to this buyer. Thankfully he ultimately got the refund, but after what seemed like a very long process.

Yeah some of these e-celeb bootmakers have their share of issues, I declined role clubs when he did an extra unmentioned up charge last year, wrote a post on it here, I blame his woman who appeared to be his handler. Brian seemed nice but still.

I’d say go with Unsung, I really want their black Maryam M2M engineers for my similar leathered jacket. But haven’t pulled trigger due to costs, which is only gettin higher, etc “internal should I purchase noise” etc

 

[jchance]

John Lobb https://www.johnlobb.com/en_us/shoes/shoes-boots

You did say grail...

Overrated. I have several, and Edward Green, too, I wanted to try to know what’s it like to wear the very best money can buy. I couldn’t tell the difference tbh.

Actually, Lobb bespoke is a different beast all together. I couldn’t tell I was wearing shoes at all. It feels like cloud, but I could get that feeling from Common Projects though, for a fraction of the price.

 

[JohannesClimacus]

Thanks for all the recs so far, everyone. I've definitely read some new names here. And quick point of clarification: I won't actually be going bespoke (yet - hopefully one day). I just want a boot maker or company who offers bespoke, as I think it increases the odds of killer details that more mass produced makes might not pull off. I'll max out at made to measure.

 

[Nick in London]

Overrated. I have several, and Edward Green, too, I wanted to try to know what’s it like to wear the very best money can buy. I couldn’t tell the difference tbh.

Actually, Lobb bespoke is a different beast all together. I couldn’t tell I was wearing shoes at all. It feels like cloud, but I could get that feeling from Common Projects though, for a fraction of the price.

But Common Projects doesn't do bespoke.

And John Lobb and Edward Green RTW are similar in price. So why would you expect them to be different?

 

[jchance]

But Common Projects doesn't do bespoke.

And John Lobb and Edward Green RTW are similar in price. So why would you expect them to be different?

CP RTW is underrated. Those pigskin lined shoes / boots are too comfortable, if comfort is what you’re looking for. One could get a used pair for $ sub100-200s range.

Price is just what the market is willing to bear, what would move the shoes with willing buyers. Price =/= subjective value or comfort.

 

[JohannesClimacus]

I have a pair of non-bespoke Lobb dress shoes. I really like them but the details are less precise than I'd expect based on their reputation. I only paid $200 second hand though and no one but the wearer will EVER notice the details we get worked up about, like precise stitching, etc.

 

[JohannesClimacus]

Common Projects puts that serial number on the outside. I'm not really willing to do any visible branding. Same concern with addict boots. Also quick reminder to folks I'm looking for a service boot-style boot - not just any good boot maker. Many of them have those, yes, but some are much more focused on stuff like Chelsea boots. Not the vibe I'm going for with this purchase.

 

[jchance]

Common Projects puts that serial number on the outside. I'm not really willing to do any branding. Same concern with addict boots.

That number is so small. If you have owned a pair of CP for more than 6 months, that number fades to be dull and unreadable. And it’s not branding, not like it says “Common Projects”. I share your same philosophy of not being a walking billboard, but this isn’t that.

I don’t own any Addict boots but they look unnoticeable too, if you wearing them standing up. If you’re sitting down with your legs crossed, maybe people would notice some writings but they wouldn’t know what it says unless they are in the know. High chance they are not in the know with the prerequisite knowledge to recognize Addict boots. I know my shoes and boots and I wouldn’t have recognize the brand / the writing.

 

[Nick in London]

CP RTW is underrated. Those pigskin lined shoes / boots are too comfortable, if comfort is what you’re looking for. One could get a used pair for $ sub100-200s range.

Price is just what the market is willing to bear, what would move the shoes with willing buyers. Price =/= subjective value or comfort.

Congrats! You win today's prize for Most Abstruse Answers.

 

[JohannesClimacus]

That number is so small. If you have owned a pair of CP for more than 6 months, that number fades to be dull and unreadable. And it’s not branding, not like it says “Common Projects”. I share your same philosophy of not being a walking billboard, but this isn’t that.

I don’t own any Addict boots but they look unnoticeable too, if you wearing them standing up. If you’re sitting down with your legs crossed, maybe people would notice some writings but they wouldn’t know what it says unless they are in the know. High chance they are not in the know with the prerequisite knowledge to recognize Addict boots. I know my shoes and boots and I wouldn’t have recognize the brand / the writing.

Knowing that they wear off makes it even worse, IMO. Why would I want boots that end up with an unreadable gold smudge in a prominent location?

No one has to recognize the brand behind the branding for it to still be noticeable. Adding writing - especially gold foil writing - is branding even if it's not the brand name. I don't hate on people who wear that, it's just not something I'm interested in.

 

[cbez]

Addict is completely unnoticeable.

I used to feel that way about tongue or upper stamps, but now I don't really care lol.