The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[Qirrel]

The model having a belt I suspect it goes all the way to the sideseam, since that will save some fabric in the cutting, and the belt will hide the seam in any case.

 

[Luftwaffles]

Is knitwear allowed here as well? I'm curious because I'm in the process of knitting a simple navy scarf for my significant other who lives in Raleigh, and I wanted to show it once I'm done.

 

[Fastuni]

Why not open an own thread (if there isn't one already) for knitting?
It's not tailoring, isn't it?

 

[Luftwaffles]

Good point. Might as well, could get some good projects posted ^^

 

[Patrick Hall]

Is knitwear allowed here as well?

There is the "Gentlemen Show Us What You've Made" thread in the General section, that would probably be the proper place for a scarf.

 

[Barmey]

Here is probably the best resource out there for the more archaic Tailors Cutting systems. Check it out!

http://siamcostumes.com/guides.php?cat=14

 

[Two Types]

Good stuff

 

[dr.anonymous]

Forgive my ignorance, but I made a forum account to specifically post on this thread. I've always enjoyed older things, particularly from the Golden Era and the Atomic Age. When I came across this article, I was extremely impressed by the quality of work. I've never really delved into making my own clothing, but these past two months I have been learning as much as I can, especially from here. One question though- on page four, it mentions drawing the upper collar to the garment. When I searched for "drawing", the computer said it was a variation of the slip stitch. Could one of the talented tailors on here post detailed images about the construction of the lapel and collar? I've successfully completed a pair of high waisted, flat front, tapered pants- but the jacket lapels are holding me back from pursuing ahead. You all on here have finally matched the quality of yesteryear, and it gives me hope that somewhere in the world, people still have taste.

Thank you in advance to anyone who replies.

 

[Nick D]

Welcome to the Lounge, and the rabbit hole. The drawing stitch is also known as a ladder stitch, used to join the top collar fabric to the lapel.

This is not the complete method of making the collar, but the basic steps. It's very similar to Quirrel's post on page 4, though I apply the top collar differently.

The undercollar is basted to the neck edge, and sewn on the outside with a felling stitch and the inside with a cross stitch.

The top collar is laid out flat and the undercollar positioned on top, then basted down the roll line and edge.

The edge of the fall is turned in and felled to the undercollar, then the gorge line is turned in (note that the gorge line of the lapel was turned in and basted when the lapels were made.)

The gorge line is closed with the drawing stitch. Short stitches are taken right on the fold of the two pieces, after several the thread is gently pulled drawing the seam closed, then several more stitches.

The ends still have to be finished, and I did leave a bit out, but those are the major steps in attaching the collar. Making collars is my favorite part of tailoring. Hope this helps.

 

[dr.anonymous]

Thank you Nick, that is exactly what I was looking for. I had to throw out an almost complete jacket because I had ruined the upper collar by doing the wrong stitch. I've being doing things by measurements and quick drafts, but once I complete a few decent pieces of clothing, I want to create my own patterns. The quick ones I have made are from newspaper and are rather delicate- what is the best material for making long-lasting patterns? Cardboard?

Also, the lapels on the coat posted above are fantastic. Your quality of work is astounding, is the fabric vintage as well?

 

[Nick D]

Thanks. The fabric's not vintage but I've done work with vintage. I do my best, but Herringbonekid and Quirrel do some of the best.

I use tracing paper, which is delicate. For things I use a lot I'll have a master copy and when the working copy gets worn I'll make a new tracing. More work maybe, but tracing doesn't take long and I tweak the patterns a lot. For something more permanent you could try butcher's paper, which is pretty tough.

 

[herringbonekid]

what is the best material for making long-lasting patterns? Cardboard?

i would use stiff manilla card if possible. i used to have a large roll of it from Morplan, but since it ran out i've been using a similar weight card from the local art shop:

the good thing about stiff card, apart from it being harder wearing and easier to draw around, is that you get to use one of these manly pattern notchers which makes a really satisfying 'clunk' when you cut the notches out.

 

[Two Types]

Look at that fabric! Grey with purple stripes! What have you made with that?

 

[herringbonekid]

Look at that fabric! Grey with purple stripes! What have you made with that?

oh, that's the last shirt i made... you've already seen it in the tab collar thread:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...ll-Available&p=1848482&viewfull=1#post1848482

the colours in the photo above are a bit dull.

 

[Two Types]

And there was me thinking (hoping...) it was suiting! Imagine the suit that could be made in that fabric if it was 16oz suiting!!!! It could be the widest of all wide boy suits.

 

[Nick D]

An interesting draft, comparing a jacket from 1918 with a modern one. Of course, modern in this case means 1938.

 

[dr.anonymous]

I know this forum is dedicated to the golden era, but does anyone have any "Ivy League" style jacket drafts? The style was popular from about late 1954 to early 1964; center or side vents, slim lapels, tiny notches, high button closure, with or without darts. I will link an example of a jacket cut in this style. It was a rather "conservative" cut, trousers in this style are high waisted with a slight, but noticeable taper with no break.

Here is a good example of a suit, also has half cloverleaf lapels. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-50s...pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item58b71a19ad

I've only found one pattern- Simplicity 3647 from 1960. If no one here has any drafts I will buy that pattern to use.

 

[nihil]

I guess this is a suitable area to show what's going on around here

http://www.imagebam.com/image/91b96c365102702

http://www.imagebam.com/image/d55b93365102704

 

[dr.anonymous]

Well it has been a while since I replied to this thread, and despite full effort, my attempts at tailoring have, to my great disappointment, failed. My endeavors weren't completely useless, the knowledge I gained from learning how men's clothing is actually constructed has been beneficial to me. I was curious on a certain type of alteration, and this place came to mind. I have a few Goodwill suits I picked up a few years ago, that fit me pretty well. I've taken in on the pants and jacket, and have tapered the pants and added 1.5 inch cuffs. The lapels are a bit wide for the style I'm going for, about 4.5 inches. I was wondering, and after a bit of research, I wanted to know if lapels could be slimmed down. It seems the general consensus is that they can be taken in either right before he buttonhole or past it. I just wanted to know how hard the operation would be, considering I would have to recut the collar as well. The jacket is fully lined, and I don't know how to proceed. Any ideas on what would be the best way to go about this?

Dr anonymous

 

[Claudio]

Ivy league is THE thing now and there are nth amounts of places where you can buy the actual vintage item or new. I would probably suggest to do some research on the look you are after (that link you posted of the jacket on ebay is sorry to say the most unflatering jacket I have seen - no offence). All of the major american labels are doing this style like O'Connels and RL, but vintage jackets are all over the net Hardy & Johnsons, Fitzgeralds Closet, Watch The Moth being the very first I can think of but if you put in ivy + jacket into Etsy you will be on the right track. To alter the lapels on a jacket is something I would never dream of trying and really dont think it can be done if you want a decent enough look in the end.

As for patterns there are a few online, again try etsy.

Good luck