The Bowler or Derby Hat

[splintercellsz]

Not maybe, do post it, please!

 

[John Galt]

John, very nice! It's a shame the Stetsons original sweat was lost. Great looking derbys you have there!

Thanks. It _is_ a shame, and it was really my own fault. I had just assumed they would save the sweat and use a quality ribbon and apply it in the same style because they knew I collect vintage hats. I will not make that mistake again.

Confessional - maybe someone will learn from my stupid mistakes:

I had another bad day last week when I gently pulled a NOS lightweight 6 7/8 hat (Edit: a Bee Hats Featherweight!) down a little too tight on my 7 to 7 1/8 head straight out of the box without conditioning the leather, and immediately split the sweat.

I also once used a baby wipe to clean some felt stiffener off of the hatband of a 1930's Stetson ******* and stained it pink (this is usually ok in my experience - I believe it was a chemical reaction to the felt stiffener), but that time I was lucky enough to find a quality vintage replacement ribbon in the same color.

Dagnabit, I really hate it when I inadvertently damage these old hats!

 

[splintercellsz]

Pink, now that'd be interesting to see.... haha!

I too know the feeling of pulling down a smaller hat, and messing up the sweat. It's not fun, but hey, we learn from our mistakes. If we never made them, how would we learn?!

 

[John Galt]

Found myself at the office late tonight, and pulled out some more bowlers.

I'll start with the 1950's brown Mallory soft top.

 

[John Galt]

Now an old Dunlap I forgot about, for repair. Needs a sweat & ribbon:

 

[John Galt]

Now, and finally, the Higson & Collings "3 1/4 Oz Zephyr," firmly dated from January 9, 1894 (or 95 - conflicting reports) when the company was founded in Danbury Connecticut to no later than February of 1900 when co-founder David Higson started advertising his new firm, Higson & Company, in Bethel, Connecticut. Note the wooden reed. Anyone know anything about them? I have seen a few now...












(Played with that photo a bit to try to clarify it)



This last was with obituary of Higson.

 

[John Galt]

I think it is odd that neither man was photographed in a hat. I recently saw a photo of a bunch of workers (at the old Mallory factory, I think) and noted that nary a one was wearing a hat or cap of any kind. Maybe it was a tradition or superstition?

 

[John Galt]

Bios of both men (and many other distinguished Connecticut hatters) are in the Commemorative Biographical Record Of Fairfield County, Connecticut, which is available online.

A.B. Collings, pp. 1144-1145

David Higson, pp. 1152-1153

Stiff hat maker Edward Von Gal's bio is also there, at 1153. Von Gal's ads abound in The American Hatter and are also on eBay, but I've not yet seen a Von Gal hat on eBay or elsewhere.

I have more research if anyone has a H&C hat and wants more nitty gritty.

 

[doberdadinmd]

Just received this beauty today. Would be a perfect fit if it was about 50mm smaller.

 

[splintercellsz]

Very nice!

 

[mayserwegener]

Doberdadinmd, Fantastic Locke & Co. Bowler!

John Galt, Great series of Derbies! Would it be possible to weigh the Higson & Collings "3 1/4 Oz Zephyr"? Also does it have a liner?

 

[John Galt]

Just received this beauty today. Would be a perfect fit if it was about 50mm smaller.

Beautiful English Coke hat!

 

[John Galt]

Doberdadinmd, Fantastic Locke & Co. Bowler!

John Galt, Great series of Derbies! Would it be possible to weigh the Higson & Collings "3 1/4 Oz Zephyr"? Also does it have a liner?

I will weigh it & post soon. I haven't gotten it home from the office yet. It does not have a liner, and was made without one - presumably to reduce its' weight.

John

 

[doberdadinmd]

Beautiful English Coke hat!

These pics don't really do it justice either.

 

[mayserwegener]

I will weigh it & post soon. I haven't gotten it home from the office yet. It does not have a liner, and was made without one - presumably to reduce its' weight.

John

Thanks! It would be the lightest stiff felt on the FL. Manfred's Rehfus & Cie ZEPHIR Melone (German) is marked 70 grams (2.5 ounces) but that is the hat body weight. The overall weight with liner is about 115 grams (4.0 ounces) which is super light for a stiff fur felt hat. I have a wool Negretti Melone (German) that is about the same weight.

Rehfus & Cie ZEPHIR

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/20-rehfus-federleicht/#entry605

 

[bowlerman]

Stetson Excellent Quality brown derby:

 

[mayserwegener]

Jeff, Rare find! I like everything about it!

 

[Chepstow]

Jeff, what a hat!! He is a winner and a great find. Looks perfect! You must be proud of him!

 

[doberdadinmd]

Stunning!

 

[splintercellsz]

:eusa_clap

Jeff, what a stunner!