The Bowler or Derby Hat

[alanfgag]

Thanks Al... we used to be able to compete with Batavia in the old days! 8^)

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks Al... we used to be able to compete with Batavia in the old days! 8^)

Alan, Fantastic Derby! The sweatband treatment is really interesting.

 

[mayserwegener]

Bowlerman, Wow I have seen cracks but never one cut in half! That Mallory still looks great! Look forward to future enhancements.

 

[alanfgag]

Alan, Fantastic Derby! The sweatband treatment is really interesting.

Thank you Steve... I've seen the suspension construction in straw boaters but hadn't in a derby until this one... andthen again in Robert's recently posted example. Makes a lot of sense in a rigid hat.

 

[mattface]

My girlfriend got this interesting bowler today in an ebay lot of women's hats. It's really interesting and unusual. It's hard as a rock, and has a rough texture on the outside. I think it must have been heavily lacquered.

Does anyone have any tips for cleaning a hat like this? I'm assuming a dip in the bucket of coleman fuel would likely ruin it. Any guesses as to age?

 

[bowlerman]

I almost put a bid on that lot just for that bowler. What a great color! I'm glad a [girlfriend of] a lounger grabbed it! no idea about the stains. I've had a degree of success on a sand colored bowler using a mild liquid dish detergent on a damp sponge to remove ketchup and cooking grease... also took multiple rounds of steaming.

 

[mattface]

I almost put a bid on that lot just for that bowler. What a great color! I'm glad a [girlfriend of] a lounger grabbed it! no idea about the stains. I've had a degree of success on a sand colored bowler using a mild liquid dish detergent on a damp sponge to remove ketchup and cooking grease... also took multiple rounds of steaming.

So steam and water won't hurt the lacquer on this hat?

 

[mattface]

OK, so encouraged by Bowler man I gave the hat a shower in the kitchen sink, and scrubbed it with dish soap. the dark stains were reduced, and the other dirt was taken care of entirely, it was quick and easy. towel dried it, then hit it with a steam wand and a horse hair brush, and that brought the texture right back. WOW! what a difference!




p.s. the hat on the left just had a naptha bath last night, and a steam this morning.

 

[mattface]

I'm glad a [girlfriend of] a lounger grabbed it!

Oh yeah, and my girlfriend will be a lounger herself as soon as the mods approve her account. She joined up last night to show off some of her vintage hats, and swap restoration tips.

 

[Joshbru3]

Oh yeah, and my girlfriend will be a lounger herself as soon as the mods approve her account. She joined up last night to show off some of her vintage hats, and swap restoration tips.

Very cool! :eusa_clap

 

[mattface]

I'm guessing late 1800s on the age. does that sound right?

 

[Lefty]

probably a bit closer to 1921, around the time when they rolled out the "quality without extravagance" campaign

 

[RichardH]

Hey folks, I'm thinking of getting myself my 2nd hat (ever) for my birthday/christmas (It's 3 days before christmas eve) and I've always thought bowler hats looked rather smashing. Since I've got a big head ( 7 3/4 or 62cm ) vintage bowlers are pretty much out of the question. I guess the most accurate modern production bowler is the one from christies (It's at least something that I can actually afford) , so my question to you guys is; which one of the two fur-felt bowlers they make would you recommend? The Devonshire bowler, or the standard one? Also, are they true to size? (I have a stetson saxon in 7 3/4 and it fits perfectly.. It is also my only felt hat, for now lol!)

Thanks!

 

[coble]

shannon phillips bowler, a cheap bowler but i like it.

bowlerman, i like the frankenstein taping of you bowler, even though it comes apart i love the hat. Especially the brim.

Alan, looking good, simple but classic, and it suits you well.

 

[bowlerman]

Thanks coble!

I like your Shannon Phillips. I sent them an inquiry a few years ago but never followed through. Would you please post more pics/descriptions when you can?

 

[coble]

http://www.nethats.com/pages/derby_hats_classic.html

its the second one on the website. Its unlined which does make it really nice 4.5 inch crown, top of crown is really stiff, 2 inch brim. Very smooth, 100% wool. go for 30 dollars, its a good quality bowler for the price, and for anyone starting with bowlers from fedoras. Vey comfortable, with no lining its nice because i could go and get a lining for it. it has a leatherette sweatband, its nice. Here are some more photos for you bowlerman.

 

[mayserwegener]

I haven't seen any modern production or custom Bowler (Derby, Melone, Ect) that can match vintage. I would say the early 1960s is the end point for properly made Bowlers.

 

[Henry Gondorff]

Are there any non-wool, fur-felt derbies available new from current manufacturers, for reasonable (Akubra-like) prices? Alternately, is this the sort of hat that a custom hatmaker could make? It seems like the shape of the open crown may require a block shape that most hat makers don't have, not to mention the flange and the curl and the hardness.

I just got a bowler hat (pics to follow) from an italian hat maker. Just follow this link:
http://guerra1855.com/uk/flash.htm

They don't have prices on their website, but I purchased the bowler for 59€. That's a very reasonable price.

 

[Brad Bowers]

I've had so many people compliment me on my Derbies over the last few weeks, and several of them want to buy one, and I think when they hear "eBay" it turns them off. I loaned one out to a local theater company for their Christmas play. A member on one of the many committees I sit on heard I made hats and wanted me to make one for her husband for Christmas, and one for her son for his wedding. I had to tell her that I just don't have the equipment.

If I'm getting this much attention and interest in little ol' Pueblo, I can't imagine what the rest of the country thinks. I really think there's a demand, but the supply is not available locally. I've long wanted to make Derbies, but I'd have to have custom made blocks, as I've only ever found one Derby block on eBay, and snatched it up. I'd also have to have front/rear tollikers manufactured (out of metal, not wood, so maybe a local foundry could do it). Curling shackles are more readily available. And getting the right felt with the right amount of shellac would have to be a custom run from Winchester.

The deck is stacked against custom hatters to create proper Derbies. One idea I've had is to start buying up Derbies on eBay and refurbishing them for sale, as long as they didn't need a reblock or recurl.

Brad

 

[Henry Gondorff]

I finally can participate here since I got myself a bowler yesterday. It's an italian hat manufactury, Guerra 1855. It's a really nice hat, the only disadvantage is the white lining. I think it'll soon become sweat stains, won't it?

The color is far to grey on this picture. The hat is actually black: