Show us your British suits

[Two Types]

Get your scanner fired up, we need to see that!

 

[herringbonekid]

this (probably orphaned) tweed jacket sold yesterday on U.S. ebay. i'm certain it's British.
the only other British suit jackets i've seen with curved pockets belonged to the Duke of Windsor (he had at least two).

 

[Eddie Derbyshire]

this (probably orphaned) tweed jacket sold yesterday on U.S. ebay. i'm certain it's British.
the only other British suit jackets i've seen with curved pockets belonged to the Duke of Windsor (he had at least two).

Very curious. I'm not sure how well the curved pocket works with the rest of the jacket, although when it's on it may take on a more 'curvy' personality (sloped shoulders, waisted etc.).

How old HBK? 1920s for a guess?

 

[Eddie Derbyshire]

Hang on, no, I change my vote. The rest of it looks way later than 1920s.

 

[herringbonekid]

How old HBK? 1920s for a guess?

not sure. the seller said 20s / 30s. tricky one to date accurately.

 

[1940sFreddie]

this (probably orphaned) tweed jacket sold yesterday on U.S. ebay. i'm certain it's British.
the only other British suit jackets i've seen with curved pockets belonged to the Duke of Windsor (he had at least two).

I think your right HBK it looks British to me too. The curved pockets almost give it a look of a ladies jacket

 

[herringbonekid]

The curved pockets almost give it a look of a ladies jacket

that's what i'm seeing too (i don't think it's a ladies jacket though). i was hoping you were going to buy it so we could see some better shots of it worn.

 

[Eddie Derbyshire]

That's a good point Freddie. Were there any pictures of the back? Because I'm thinking riding jacket now as well. With those buttons being close-set (although that's no concrete indicator). Single interior ******-pocket would suggest pre-1955 ish I'd say? The lining seems fairly normal/post 1940s? It needs someone wearing it!

 

[herringbonekid]

i don't think it's specifically a riding jacket, but could have been used as such (most hacking jackets had a centre vent).
many non-riding jackets of the 30s had similarly close set buttons. here's the listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-192...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

could easily have had matching plus fours.

 

[Eddie Derbyshire]

It's got all sorts going on HBK!

Here's that Montague Burton book:











Sorry if they're posted in the wrong order anywhere - Photobucket decided to mix them up.

Most of the illustrations seem to be from the 1920s (maybe earlier?) with the wing-collars, slim trousers etc., but there are a few from the 1940s, I'd reckon, including the plus-fours and the evening jacket.
The last couple of pages are particularly interesting from a historical standpoint. Indicates the attitudes towards business and manufacturing, that you perhaps wouldn't find in such a direct way these days. I understand Mr. Burton was rather a stickler?

Hope it's of interest gents.

 

[1940sFreddie]

that's what i'm seeing too (i don't think it's a ladies jacket though). i was hoping you were going to buy it so we could see some better shots of it worn.

Haha hbk to be honest I never seen it, shipping cost are always a bit much from the states for me. If It had had matching plus fours now that would of been interesting. Love the strong red/rust windowpane in the weave.

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks for scanning that booklet Eddie !

 

[Nick D]

I drafted the vest from the 1949 Modern Tailor, Outfitter, and Clothier last night. I'll make a mockup to test it in the next couple of days. I'm not sure if I got the points or the front and bottom edges quite right, but that's what the mockup is for. I hope it's right, the vest pattern I've been using is too big for me and I'd rather draft one than grade the old one down again.

 

[PeterB]

Eddie, those scans from the Burton book are great. Good advice for customers when discussing things with tailors. Thanks for posting them.

 

[esteban68]

Very interesting and useful Eddie, it could be anywhere from the 20's onwards .....I have a cycling book from the 50's with the same style of illustrations.

 

[Rabbit]

Thanks for the scans, Eddie. Very interesting. The rules provided for staff are surprisingly similar to today's instructions for MTM vendors in that they are fairly simplistic, but functional. For instance, for the outseam length measured by the height above the heel, they provide a rule of thumb that some dressers would not subscribe to (cf. the Esquire descriptions and surveys, where trousers invariably have only the slightest break, thus ending higher than at the upper edge of the heel, or even without break as they recommended for summer trousers and sportswear).

They obviously prefer to stick to rules of thumb rather than rely on staff's knowlegde which the staff may not have.

I think it makes perfect sense that this booklet is not supposed to be public. The last sections reveal the most common shortcomings on the side of the vendors/ tailors; it would be bad business to make things like that public. There are also some remarks about customers' knowledge on the matter which, true as they are, would be bad form to spread around.

 

[Eddie Derbyshire]

My pleasure to share the booklet gents! Now if I could only get a hold of one of the suits it's talking about...!

Rabbit - You're right, it is interesting the sorts of 'tricks' they used to try and get the good fit. Nothing too technical or overcomplicated. I suppose it meant that the shop assistants at Burtons (who I assume wouldn't have been tailors themselves - orders would have been sent off to tailors elsewhere?) had a foolproof and standardized system. I think the last section is positively amusing! Especially the little jingle about 'Carelessness'.

 

[1940sFreddie]

This is a beautiful british suit I've had for a while doesn't come out much. But today while haveing a shake down and demoth spray day. I found a little book of matches in the little inside pocket. I always assumed this suit was early 30s but now actually looking at it closely it could be earlier?

Freddie

 

[Eddie Derbyshire]

Freddie - That suit is stupendous. My ideal suit! The cut of the waistcoat is an absolute dream!

The cloth looks like morning trousers/'sponge bag' stripe? Very nice though. I can't help you with dating necessarily, other than to my eyes it looks 1930s (side buckle adjusters might suggest later than 1920s?). Nice little treasures to find in the pockets though! The best I've ever found was an ancient packet of Polos from decades ago...

How come it doesn't come out much? If I had one like that It'd never be off my back!

 

[Nick D]

Hot diggity that's a nice suit! I would have thought '30s. And I'm with Eddie, if it were mine it wouldn't be an occasional wear.