Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

[Metatron]

Looks very thick and heavy. The yoke creates a 'western' association in my mind, but I suspect there is no intentional connection.

 

[Fastuni]

It is (lighter) overcoat-quality cloth.

Scalloped yokes were quintessentially Continental European sports style - but in US fashion it is largely confined to Western wear.

 

[Rabbit]

A glimpse of the early 1930s German suit from Fastuni, internally referred to as the crazy pink suit, accompanied by one of Damian's brocade ties. Next time I have to do something about the shirt; it's not crazy enough to balance the rest of the outfit.
Thanks to both of you for making these available!

 

[Fastuni]

How about a rich blue shirt with white club collar and cuffs?
I would go for something extravagant BUT solid colored to balance the pattern-heavy suit and tie.

 

[Rabbit]

Yes, a white contrast collar on solid or semi-solid, like end-on-end, is fine. Also striped oxfords can work. The rule of balancing patterns with solids, or crazy elements with sober ones, is in my opinion a post-war idea. You can actually balance crazy patterns very well with other patterns, but it's not easy at all which is probably why it gradually got out-of-favor after the 1930s.

 

[Fastuni]

I have to check my German 30's style guides... but I think the recommendation to balance with solid elements was around already then.

...

Here another solid dark blue structure stripe DB. Mid to late 30's from Leipzig.
The fabric is outstanding in quality and drape.
Size is a 38 Short (but with plenty fabric to extend it to a Regular).

 

[Two Types]

The waistcoat! Wow! And such lovely buttons.

 

[Rabbit]

I have to check my German 30's style guides... but I think the recommendation to balance with solid elements was around already then.

Well, I'm not saying that wearing solids to balance strong patterns wasn't common in the 1930s. We know that it was, I agree with you.
However, creating balanced outfits consisting of patterned shirts, ties and suits was decidedly a pre-war concept, and a difficult one to execute. Not everyone was doing it. The 20s with their subtle but intricate patterns certainly rank highest in that respect, and in the 30s the well-dressed were still busy practicing this concept.

I think that what the more dapper dressers were doing and what we would find in magazine texts written for those who didn't have the inclination to figure it out for themselves are two different things. It would seem reasonable that magazines of a time when a general taste in dressing still prevailed would publish recommendations for safe ground outfits more often than recommendations for the crazier outfits. Again, even if you know in theory how such outfits work, they still sometimes don't when you put them on.

I maintain that the post-war era gradually became a fashion lacking in patterns - it wasn't all solids, but the subtler texture-on-pattern, or pattern-within-pattern did disappear. Without those "special" patterns, wearing outfits consisting entirely of patterns became rather difficult. We only have to look at the 70s for a counter-example of mixing patterns.

Edit: My references are almost exclusively American.


TT, the buttons are just as nuts as the rest of the suit! This is the suit posted by Fastuni earlier with the ample supply of pockets everywhere.

 

[Mathematicus]

A brown chalkstripe three-piece suit from Bavarian Swabia.
Quite short jacket... I think ca. 1938.

I'm sorry if this was posted quite a long ago, but I had to comment that I find these lapels really really outstanding!!!!
Did you keep this or it was sold?

 

[Fastuni]

Thanks - the lapels really are something special on this suit.
It was sold shortly after I posted it here.

A few weeks ago my German sportcoat from the US arrived.
As some buttons have been replaced and were not identical, I decided to exchange them altogether for 30's brown bowled buttons.
The sleeves have been let out to the max.

 

[Mathematicus]

Thanks - the lapels really are something special on this suit.
It was sold shortly after I posted it here.

Too sad! Don't tell me the size or I'll cry if it's mine

Very nice coat, indeed. Also very interesting the herringbone pattern - quite noticeable but not loud.

 

[Fastuni]

A German afternoon & evening suit that is going to AntonAAK.

It was made by tailor Fr. Kögel in Esslingen, near Stuttgart in June 1938.

The quality of material and workmanship is the best I have handled so far.
The black cloth is a very dense but soft draping micro-herringbone weave.
The lining is smooth and comfortable.

The waistcoat has mother of pearl buttons to attach a white under-gilet/piping to the neck opening.
Also one lower waistcoat pocket has a red velvet lining to protect the pocket watch!

Legs are tapered and cuffless - normal for these evening suits.

 

[esteban68]

That's a beautiful suit Fastuni, I especially like the idea of lining the waistcoat pocket to protect the pocketwatch.

 

[Two Types]

Brilliant suit. If only that had been a bit larger it would have fit me! I'm sure Anton is going to be very happy with it.
As you know, that's exactly what I am looking for.

 

[Fastuni]

Two Types, some weeks ago I have sent you a PM regarding a black SB peak lapel three-piece in your size.
You must have missed this message.

In two weeks I will send you some photos when I am back at my flat.

...

Posted at "Overcoats" before - but as it is German ready-to-wear at it's best:

1930's German Ulster coat made by "RTK Berlin".

Very heavy and thick heathered plum-brown cloth with lovely Tartan doubleface.

Look at the neatly finished edges. The cuffs are buttonable.

The coat can also be buttoned up and has a stormflap for the collar.

 

[Mathematicus]

Wonderful pieces!

 

[Rudie]

Love the coat!

 

[Two Types]

Lovely coat.

Fastuni: i certainly missed your message. I've not been around much and my PM folder was full. Maybe it didn't get through? I certainly look forward to seeing photos.

 

[Fastuni]

An early 1930's German two-piece suit.

Formerly a DB, it was converted to a SB. Some curve added to the lower edge.
Fortunately it has not the tell-tale double lapel buttonholes.
When the two front buttons are closed, it does it's job as a SB quite well.
The photo angle is misleading BTW - the lower button is exactly on the height of the pockets.

It has light shoulder padding and slightly flared sleeves - typical for the early 1930's.

Fabric is black with blue and white stripes. A very sturdy but soft-draping wool fabric.

As can be seen I am letting out the waist and legs (false cuffs) to make it fit.
The jacket and sleeves fortunately are just the right length, but I will nip the waist a bit more.

In any case a very reliable and sturdy suit for frequent use.

 

[Two Types]

That's nice. The buttons are wonderful.