Show us their suits

[Tomasso]

Not an expert on suits but I found this suit worn by Ferrari boss Luca Cordero di Montezemolo very impressive.

It is a staple of a gentleman's classic wardrobe.

 

[Metatron]

You mean this particular design? I see this one as a bit on the flamboyant side, one needs confidence to wear it and look comfortable. Compare his suit to the journalist's!

 

[Tomasso]

I see this one as a bit on the flamboyant side...... Compare his suit to the journalist's!

Most journalists (along with politicians) tend to dress very vanilla; devoid of style. That said, I don't consider Luca's grey DB chalk stripe suit to be particularly flamboyant. [huh]

 

[herringbonekid]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Menswear-Vi...TF8&colid=152N1N32YU72Y&coliid=I37RGXTKN2X6D4

got this book today. i think it will be a great reference book to return to again and again. most of the images are Edwardian so if you're only interested in 30s-40s you might be unsatisfied. i'm very interested in Edwardian to early 20s at the moment so for me it's great; there are many unusual jackets, Norfolks and overcoats to look at, worn by everyday men (all British).

my only criticism is that it could have been twice as long and bigger. it's a small book about 7" square and two photos per page so each image turns out about 4" high which is smaller than most of the orignal photos/postcards would have been.

 

[Metatron]

I was about to buy that, but now that you said there's not much 30s-40s stuff you put me off.
Well, it's not expensive so I might go for it anyway.

 

[Two Types]

Saboteur (1942)

It's not my thing, but this is an interesting leather jacket:

This is an interesting contrast between tie knots - small on the left, large on the right:

 

[Two Types]

Mandy (1952)

I've always been a big fan of this period of British suits: the increasing informality of cut, combined with the continuing tradition of waistcoat etc. I particularly like the way he has combined the three piece suit with a pair of suede, crepe-soled shoes.

 

[Metatron]

Interesting leather jacket indeed... Clumsily trying to look like a sports coat?

As a sidenote, is there a consensus about 'proper' trouser length? Touching the shoes with a crease? Hovering over the shoe with a turn up? Crease with a turn up? I'm a little confused. [huh]

 

[MikeBravo]

This is an interesting contrast between tie knots - small on the left, large on the right:

Thin tie knot with soft button-down collar. Thick tie knot with stiff straight collar.

I think the thing to note is the tie knots match the width of the opening (where the button is located), thin knot with thin opening, thick knot with wider opening.

And different lapels, notched with button-down collar v. peaked with stiff collar.

A picture does paint a thousand words

 

[The Good]

Mandy (1952)

I've always been a big fan of this period of British suits: the increasing informality of cut, combined with the continuing tradition of waistcoat etc. I particularly like the way he has combined the three piece suit with a pair of suede, crepe-soled shoes.

That's a great three piece suit, and it's interesting about the crepe-soled shoes in that picture. I have actually worn a brown suit (late '60s wool three button and pants that have almost no break) with suede crepe-soled desert boots before. Provided that the shoe/boot is clean looking, is this acceptable? Was this man breaking rules of his own time?

 

[Two Types]

I don't think he was breaking any rules. Things started to get more casual by the 1950s. I think the grey of a suit and the brown of the suede are a great mix.

As for trouser length, I think this looks just right. I know there all sorts of rules but one has to be flexible. Shorter trousers - that would look bad with shoes - can look fantastic worn with boots: Just look at the 1920s. It all depends on how you put your look together.

 

[herringbonekid]

the near-mythical 'Box-Back' coat as mentioned in the lyrics to 'St. James Infirmary Blues':

the point of the box back ? don't ask me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That's a ****ing awesome leather coat!! That's what I call a true sports jacket …

Is it a British film?

It's not my thing, but this is an interesting leather jacket:

 

[Two Types]

No, the film was made in the USA in 1942. There were plenty of leather jackets in the film but that was the only one that I thought was unusual.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Overall not unusual, but I guess the lapels with a buttonhole would be a bit unusual.

 

[herringbonekid]

 

[Chowderhouse]

From the waist down, the bloke at far right looks like a zouave.

 

[Two Types]

HBK: That's a splendid one. Any hints regarding the date?

To my eye, it looks like the mid 1920s: the man on the left is wearing a severe, dark, narrow cut suit; the chap in the middle wears the new casual look with 'bags' as came in circa 1925; the man on the right in plus-4s. If my guess at the date is correct that photo could perfectly encapsulate three key elements of mid-1920s style and the transition into what would generally be considered the '1930s look'.

My guess would be students.

It's difficult to tell from the photo, but i would guess the chap is the centre is wearing trousers with the dimensions of the original 'Oxford Bags' (i.e. 23 inches or so around the ankles). If so, the comparison illustrates quite clearly that 'bags' could not have been designed to wear over plus-4s.

 

[herringbonekid]

TT, no date but you've summed up my thoughts exactly.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Brilliant. I like the style in the middle best but the other two look cool too