Show off the sports coats.

[Jovan]

BK: I like the fabric and cut of the one you posted, but aren't all the pocket pleats a bit much? I suppose you have more room to stuff a handkerchief though. Nice finds, everyone.

 

[imoldfashioned]

Two Oviatt's sportcoats from around 1950:


======---==

Gorgeous fabric on both of these.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

BK: I like the fabric and cut of the one you posted, but aren't all the pocket pleats a bit much?

They are.

I'm not very flamboyant in my dress sense so it takes a bit of getting used to. I generally shy away from the belt back and pleated pockets etc (though i never turn them down, i wouldn't go into debt just to buy one of these pieces. I know this is the exact opposite of some other FLoungers).

I think i can handle this particular example because of the harmony of front and back treatment. The one beef I have with one of my other jackets is that the back features a different pleat style to the pockets. It doesn't harmonise well . . . There is a recent repro example designed and posted by BellyTank with which i have the same problem.




I don't wear pocket squares. They seem superfluous since i don't blow my nose and there ain't usually no puddles to drape them over so ladies don't get their feet wet.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Just noticed that my mannequin's waist is a little big for this jacket. fat ****** - look at that pulling on the button. Unforgiveable!

bk

 

[tonyb]

Excepting hats, my vintage wardrobe is quite sparse, although I am gradually addressing that deficiency. This jacket (sorry for the so-so photos)

was purchased at a Goodwill store last week. Set me back all of four bucks.

The garment is in very nice condition. The label looks 1950s to me, but I'm uneducated in such matters, so that estimate is worth about as much as it cost. It's a 44R (according to a label in an inside pocket) and fits me quite well.
Experts, weigh in please.

 

[Jovan]

The lapel shape seems pretty '30s, on the other hand. Perhaps that was intentional.

 

[Forgotten Man]

The lapel shape seems pretty '30s, on the other hand. Perhaps that was intentional.

Sorry, I beg to differ... that coat is 80's. The 30's had more of a curved wide lapel in most cases, and they weren't cut so low. This isn't a bad coat to wear but, it kinda says Miami Vice to me.

Keep up the search, you'll find good stuff.

FM~

 

[tonyb]

Geez, I didn't mean to stall (if not kill) what should be an informative and lengthy thread by posting photos of what turns out to be a fairly modern jacket.
C'mon guys (and gals), let's see more of those groovy old sports coats! Show us neophytes what to look for, please.

 

[Forgotten Man]

Agreed!

 

[Rooster]

I've got a few nifty sports coats, but I'm headed out of town. I'll see if I can get some photos of them when I return. They aren't going to be quite as cool as The Baron's or Marc's though....

 

[Jovan]

Sorry, I beg to differ... that coat is 80's. The 30's had more of a curved wide lapel in most cases, and they weren't cut so low. This isn't a bad coat to wear but, it kinda says Miami Vice to me.

Keep up the search, you'll find good stuff.

FM~

That lapel gorge isn't nearly as low as some that I've seen from the '80s... which all looked really unbalanced. So do super HIGH gorges that many fashion designers make now. Maybe it's just the angle that's tricking me.

 

[Forgotten Man]

I like that coat, very nice with the pleated pockets! William Powell was also known to wear coats like that... this one has four pleated pockets! How much fun is that!

FM~

 

[Jovan]

I would love that throat latch detail on a corduroy suit.

 

[Forgotten Man]

That lapel gorge isn't nearly as low as some that I've seen from the '80s... which all looked really unbalanced. So do super HIGH gorges that many fashion designers make now. Maybe it's just the angle that's tricking me.

Mr. Jovan, I gree it isn't as low as most from the 1980's; however, the over all cut of the coat pictured speaks louder then the coat's gorge. The lapels are a major tip off, the 30's had sweeping lapels, and were wider. They weren't as straight cut as the coat pictured. Notches were a little more ballanced with rounded corners. Also, a button hole on the left lapel was standard.

Case in point:

That is a mid 30's suit, but sport coats were cut very much the same as that two button model.

I hope that helps some

FM~

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Here are the pleats of that first sports coat in "functional mode".

Arms by the side, pleats lie flat against the back.

With arms outstretched (in a position sort of like one that might occur when riding a horse) the pleats allow some extra movement by bellowing outwards a little way, as i think is quite obvious here.

bk

 

[Benny Holiday]

Baron, that's a seriously superlative sportscoat! From Australia, did you say? I wasn't aware that such jackets were made here or otherwise found their way here. I've never seen a beltback coat in any second-hand shops here. Was it made here? (That is to say, does the label give any indication?)

I'm bowled over by it!

 

[Jovan]

What I wonder is... can Australians actually wear that most of the year?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hi Benny,

No, i'm afraid there're no labels in this one at all. All of its interior features put it into the English tailoring tradition, but whether it was made in Australia or elsewhere is beyond me.

bk

p.s. This was an ebay.com.au purchase.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Here's another one . . .

This one is American, and has a 1939 union label. Light blue tweed with pronounced white double stripe. Again, slightly small for my mannequin. This is probably my favourite sports coat.

A close-up of the fabric.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Donegal tweed sports coat #1, in taupe and brown tweed with red, blue, yellow, and other colours confetti. This one is from the mid-1940s.

Fabric close-up showing the weave and the confetti:

bk