Riri vs Crown zipper

[bigmanbigtruck]

Typically on stiff hides you're gonna see these waves develop. Not necessarily from folding them in a backpack or box, but just from movement and tension causing these bends. Softness of the zipper tape is going to force the teeth to take on that waviness. But these sliders are pretty good at routing the teeth together.

I've gotten used and relatively new LWs which also have this waviness but haven't run into difficulties pulling up the zipper. I have the same Crown zipper on multiple jackets as you do - they just glide through. Take care that you are getting the insertion pin to hit the bottom stop. You could try lubricating the teeth with wax or graphite and see if that helps.

 

[photo2u]

The topic of this thread is close enough so I'll post my question here:
When we talk about leather jackets we usually discuss how a #10 zipper is ideal for the main zipper (at least in terms of max durability, but maybe overkill in terms of aesthetics). Or at least a #8 is highly recommended as the perfect compromise, especially if the leather is not absurdly thick and stiff.
For other zippers #5 seems to be the default? I'm talking about sleeve zippers, chest pocket zippers, handwarmer pocket zippers, d-pocket zippers, etc..
I'd like to use RiRi zippers for an upcoming jacket.
They don't have #5 it seems, only #4, #6 and #8.
#8 will be the main zipper, but what about the others?
Would you go #4 or #6 for the other zippers?

Six. Some companies claim #5 zippers as #6. Some #5 Military zips, are strong as hell. Those Mil. Zips tend to run bigger than the average #5

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Typically on stiff hides you're gonna see these waves develop. Not necessarily from folding them in a backpack or box, but just from movement and tension causing these bends. Softness of the zipper tape is going to force the teeth to take on that waviness. But these sliders are pretty good at routing the teeth together.

I've gotten used and relatively new LWs which also have this waviness but haven't run into difficulties pulling up the zipper. I have the same Crown zipper on multiple jackets as you do - they just glide through. Take care that you are getting the insertion pin to hit the bottom stop. You could try lubricating the teeth with wax or graphite and see if that helps.

Many thanks that makes good sense! I have beeswax from leather working kit and I’ll wax the zipper as you guys have done.

 

[Camel24hrs]

When it comes to exact replica A2 jackets crown zips are on a number of contracts. When shelling out a lot of money for an exact reproduction having the correct zipper is a must. Eastman now owns the rights to the Crown name. They make reproduction Crown zippers to put on their A2 repos that originally came with Crown zippers. I have a Crown zip on a Rough Wear 1401-P A2 from Eastman. I have a Rough Wear 27752 from Eastman that comes with a correct Talon zipper. While I admit the Crown looks cool, as far as smoothness of operation the Talon is better than the Crown.

Other than for that reason I don’t see any reason to pay high dollar for any zipper. Just go with a good quality zipper.

 

[TartuWolf]

When it comes to exact replica A2 jackets crown zips are on a number of contracts. When shelling out a lot of money for an exact reproduction having the correct zipper is a must. Eastman now owns the rights to the Crown name. They make reproduction Crown zippers to put on their A2 repos that originally came with Crown zippers. I have a Crown zip on a Rough Wear 1401-P A2 from Eastman. I have a Rough Wear 27752 from Eastman that comes with a correct Talon zipper. While I admit the Crown looks cool, as far as smoothness of operation the Talon is better than the Crown.

Other than for that reason I don’t see any reason to pay high dollar for any zipper. Just go with a good quality zipper.

Depends on how high the "high dollar" is.
For example of you're buying a 1000 jacket and have the option to "upgrade" from a generic YKK to something like RiRi or Waldes for an extra 50 then I think it makes sense to do so as it's only a 5% increase in total price.

 

[Camel24hrs]

Depends on how high the "high dollar" is.
For example of you're buying a 1000 jacket and have the option to "upgrade" from a generic YKK to something like RiRi or Waldes for an extra 50 then I think it makes sense to do so as it's only a 5% increase in total price.

50 dollars is a cheap upgrade for a zipper. In the world of A2s if you by a non Eastman jacket your only option is NOS Crown which are getting rare. Try several 100 bucks.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Hi guys can I ask your opinion - I found this Crown #10 spring loaded zipper on sale for 8000 yen, which is about £40. Don’t know shipping cost but should be low and Japan to UK tariff is zero still I believe.

And the Riri M14 which I could only find on a US retailer website cost a whopping £56 excluding shipping and customer charges to UK - I’d estimate that total to be close to £100!

What would you do if you’re looking for a main zipper replacement for a cafe racer of medium weight HH?

 

[Will Zach]

Tbh, spring-loaded #10 NOS Crowns are so rare and expensive that I would hold it for a future "period-correct" restoration/zip replacement of a valuable vintage jacket. Absolutely buy it at that price. For a mid-weight modern jacket I would use Riri.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Tbh, spring-loaded #10 NOS Crowns are so rare and expensive that I would hold it for a future "period-correct" restoration/zip replacement of a valuable vintage jacket. Absolutely buy it at that price. For a mid-weight modern jacket I would use Riri.

Thanks! I’ve just bought 2 of those Crown #10 zippers - with shipping it’s about £98 still under the £135 threshold when import duties are triggered!

Going to hoard these lol

 

[Will Zach]

Thanks! I’ve just bought 2 of those Crown #10 zippers - with shipping it’s about £98 still under the £135 threshold when import duties are triggered!

Going to hoard these lol

Yes! They have been going for $200-250 apiece if you can find them!

 

[Carlos840]

Hi guys can I ask your opinion - I found this Crown #10 spring loaded zipper on sale for 8000 yen, which is about £40. Don’t know shipping cost but should be low and Japan to UK tariff is zero still I believe.

And the Riri M14 which I could only find on a US retailer website cost a whopping £56 excluding shipping and customer charges to UK - I’d estimate that total to be close to £100!

What would you do if you’re looking for a main zipper replacement for a cafe racer of medium weight HH?

View attachment 709379 View attachment 709380

These Crown zippers are literally the best zipper money can buy, they are incredible.
If they where available for 10$ a piece no one would even think about not using them.

I have never regreted once paying extra for a Crown zipper, but i still regret not putting a Crown on some jackets that have a Talon or RiRi zipper.

I have a few Riri and they all feel cheap to me, they make the worst noise when zipped up or down and they are the only zippers i have that creap open on their own.

If you can afford a Crown get a Crown, once you have lived with Crown zippers you won't want anythign else.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

These Crown zippers are literally the best zipper money can buy, they are incredible.
If they where available for 10$ a piece no one would even think about not using them.

I have never regreted once paying extra for a Crown zipper, but i still regret not putting a Crown on some jackets that have a Talon or RiRi zipper.

I have a few Riri and they all feel cheap to me, they make the worst noise when zipped up or down and they are the only zippers i have that creap open on their own.

If you can afford a Crown get a Crown, once you have lived with Crown zippers you won't want anythign else.

Well said! I’m actually buying a Crown in anticipation a LW Easy Ryder I bought will be a good fit (haven’t got it yet) - if so I’d replace the Talon zipper

 

[red devil]

The top end riri are very good, but at this price it was definitely a good idea to get the crowns

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Guys I received 2 Crown #10 zippers from Mash-Japan website - inc shipping for £98!!

If you like them get them quickly!

 

[TartuWolf]

Would grab a few without much thought if they had brass on black in stock!

 

[Will Zach]

Would grab a few without much thought if they had brass on black in stock!

You can dye the tape black no problem. I have never seen Crown this style in brass. Cast zinc was their thing.

 

[Carlos840]

Would grab a few without much thought if they had brass on black in stock!

I don't think they exist in black or in brass.
I'm not 100% sure but i think i remember Stuart telling me they all come in with green tape and get dyed in blue or black.

A while back i bought this LW jacket thinking i had come across a super rare zipper only to realise it had been painted with brass paint.
I asked Stuart and he told me they didn't exist in brass so they painted them...

 

[TartuWolf]

Thanks boys, no crown for me then, I've got a ****** for brass unfortunately.

 

[Will Zach]

So I could not help myself.

In the best Crocodile Dundee voice:

"That's not a zipper. That's a zipper"

#12 Crown. The width of the pull is 1 inch. The width of teeth is 12 mm. Now I just have to figure out what jacket to put it on.

And next to a #10 Conmar. Lol.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

So I could not help myself.

In the best Crocodile Dundee voice:

"That's not a zipper. That's a zipper"

#12 Crown. The width of the pull is 1 inch. The width of teeth is 12 mm. Now I just have to figure out what jacket to put it on.

View attachment 711141

I like the pull. Like its jaw dropped when it discovered it’s a #12