Photos of hatters tools

[Block Maker]

I also use a piece of granite left over from a job to do a lot of ironing on

 

[John Galt]

Boiled linseed oil should not transfer once it soaks into the wood and hardens. Unboiled might, but not boiled.

I like this thread - thanks for the dimensions Hatter4, and for sharing your solution Mr. Astor.

 

[John Galt]

I also use a piece of granite left over from a job to do a lot of ironing on

I was thinking about using some left over from a counter to make a spinner base.

 

[Mr.Astor]

Thanks John Galt for the feedback. Make sure it is MDF not particle board. On the boiled linseed oil sometimes you can get a real tight grain in the wood that just won't absorb the oil like it will outside of the tight grain.

 

[TheDane]

This is a very fine example, that every hatter has his/her own way(s) to achieve the same goal. I would never ever use stone or other heat conducting materials - as aluminum - as surface for ironing/pressing. Heat conducting is what every tailor tries to avoid when ironing/pressing - and the same goes for hatters.

To find proper blocks is nightmare. If only you could use pewter or concrete, blocks would be no problem at all - but due to heat conductance those materials are useless. In my mind stone and aluminum are useless for ironing and pressing by the very same reasons. It's not without reason, many hatters use special heated cupboards for drying newly blocked hats. To make the felt/stiffener set properly, you shouldn't cool the felt off too fast.

I haven't got a spinning bottom board. If I were to make one, I would absolutely let it rest on three solid rubber wheels - let it rotate over a loose shaft - and maybe cover it by a stainless steel plate. Stainless steel, due to it's very low heat conductance. But again ... that's just me

 

[John Galt]

You raise a good point Olė, this bears some thought.

 

[John Galt]

Here's a hatter's iron in a format I had not seen before.

 

[Hatter4]

John i think it was used for womans hats

 

[John Galt]

Thanks Hatter4. I was wondering if it was for creating a recess for the reed to rest in after it is flared. I'm not getting the reeds to set down as nice as I would like, although they flare ok. Any tips are appreciated.

I'm thinking about making a sandbag. Maybe I should have bought that flanging tool above, which just sold on eBay.

 

[humanshoes]

Homemade Conformateur

Okay, I know that Allie and Maillard are probably spinning in their graves over this one, but I built it anyway and surprise...it actually works. My first homemade conformateur. My apologies to the ghosts of the original inventors, but I can't afford to buy the real thing.

 

[John Galt]

Okay, I know that Allie Maillard is probably spinning in his grave over this one, but I built it anyway and surprise...it actually works. My first homemade conformateur. My apologies, View attachment 10072 Allie, but I can't afford one of your originals.

Doesn't look substantially different from my cardboard one, but sounds like it had better results. Can you post more photos?

 

[humanshoes]

Sorry JG, didn't think to take too many photos of this build. Kind of a spur of the moment thing, You know, wake up in the morning with an idea and don't sleep again until it's finished. Pretty simple really, but still a genuine pain in the *** to build. Old fashioned flat clothespins with two small brads per pin as guides, any thin plywood for the rings, cork sheeting from AutoZone cut and glued to inside of rings to grip the clothespins when tightened, 1/4 x 20 flange bolts and knobs from Lowes or Ace Hardware. Have tried this on the heads of several unlucky and unsuspecting friends with adequate results. Traced resulting head shapes onto precut ovals of manilla file folder then cut out for band block template. Here's another picture just prior to completion.

 

[John Galt]

Brilliant, using cork as a gasket/gripper! Wish I 'd thought of that.

I noted the clothespins and like that too. That really saves on trying to recreate 20+ items by hand that are exactly the same.

I really like how you think outside of the box on this stuff. We should definitely chat. I'll email you my digits.

I like repurposing existing items too. Here's a nice broad based candlestick holder I'm going to convert into a sweet spinner when received. Cost me $6.00.

 

[Hatter4]

John: I think it is a good idea - it just might work - let me know how you make out.
HUMANSHOES: I think your work is very good also.

 

[TheDane]

Brilliant, using cork as a gasket/gripper! Wish I 'd thought of that.

No need, John - Allie and Maillard did. Look at the original

 

[humanshoes]

Thanks for the feedback, gentlemen. I learn daily how little I know. I thought Allie Maillard was one guy who invented this tool until TheDane's post prompted further research. French company, two guys?, invented the conformateur in the 1840's, etc. I just looked at a few pictures and recreated a very crude facsimile. Love the wealth of knowledge and experience to be tapped into here on the lounge.

 

[DOGMAN]

humanshoes,very cool conformateur.Now I want to make one.

 

[humanshoes]

Thanks Dogman, just a quick tip, when installing the flat clothespins, be sure to take them down to the smallest size head you intend to measure. For me it was 6 3/4. I started out with too many pins and they wouldn't compress far enough. I found this out, of course, after I had painstakingly nailed in the two brads for each clothespin.

 

[Mr.Astor]

The human spirit to think things through than come up with an idea that suits your needs with the the simple things that you have at your disposal, inspires thought n all of us! Great job Humanshoes disregard one comment!

 

[John Galt]

John: I think it is a good idea - it just might work - let me know how you make out.

Thank you, kind sir. Like you, I enjoy collecting and using the original items (and hope to have an antique traditional heavy block spinner soon), but I'm really all about functionality and practicality.

I think this particular item will make a very functional spinner, and will still have that classic look when fitted with a (stained) hardwood dowel. I will post a photo when it is finished. If it's not heavy enough, I'll drill some holes in it it and insert some lead steelhead fishing weights ;-)

Although the blocky spinner seems more common, I have seen period pieces with broad bases and long dowels. I will also post a photo of the other candlestick conversions when I've fitted them with broad bases.

One more thing - I've started rubbing the dowels on my spinners down with wax - it gives them a nice hand rubbed finish and really helps the blocks turn. I've been using my wife's tea candles, which are readily available in bulk, are inexpensive, and seem to be made of paraffin.