Photos of hatters tools

[Lotsahats]

Now that I have a block and flange, I might just need a spinner and a pusher-downer. What do you guys use for make-shift pusher-downers to get the hat nicely down on the block?

A

 

[TheDane]

Any little wooden stick with a small groove in the end will do. John Galt make some quite cheap ones, that are a lot nicer than "any little wooden stick"

 

[humanshoes]

Thanks for your input, John.

 

[John Galt]

Thanks for your input, John.

Happy to help. Your stuff is great!

Lotso, TheDane is right. I can make you a pusher downer for $25.00, if you like. This will be pusher downer #2, so I won't charge for labor, but the price will have to increase eventually, as word gets out. There are other sources, but they are more expensive (although apparently very good quality). Humanshoes may be able to do better...


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

OT: John your inbox is full again

 

[John Galt]

Fixing...fixed - again


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[humanshoes]

Hello, Landman. Will be using a vintage block in 7 3/8 with 2 1/2" brim on the flange. Getting started on the hat tonight so we'll see how it goes.

 

[John Galt]

Anyone here ever make a paper mâché hat block? I've seen vintage examples only...


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

Anyone here ever make a paper mâché hat block?

Nope ... hoping for heat resistent 3D-print materials soon

 

[John Galt]

I have seen vintage examples - French made, I believe, and was thinking about duplicating one of my vintage blocks in this material. I'll let you know how it turns out. My main concern is not damaging the block with the starch glue. I'm thinking about heat shrinking plastic wrap to the block before applying the paper. Any better ideas?


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

I would make a plaster-of-Paris cast of the block. Then make the paper mâché block inside the plaster cast. Use a heavy layer of vaseline or wax on the wood to keep the plaster out of it.

You can build up a number of layers - then put in some chicken wire to reinforce the structure - then build more layers - then more wire - and so on.

 

[TheDane]

Naahhhr ... it's probably a bad idea to cover the block with vaseline or wax. A layer or two of plastic food wrap, covered with a nylon stocking. The stocking will keep the thin plastic in place ... is my theory

 

[John Galt]

Thanks for the input. I think we're on the same page. JG


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Lotsahats]

Pm sent, John Galt.

 

[humanshoes]

Started the new hat last night. Stretched furfelt capeline over vintage block using the puller downer and spinner then used the pusher downer to set the hat cord. Foot tolliker to set the brim break. All tools functioned as planned so far.

 

[Hatter4]

the hat looks good,what are you doing for the brim?. I am glad your tools worked for you. good luck with the rest of the hat.

 

[humanshoes]

Thanks Hatter4. I prefer a 2 1/2" bound brim, but have no means to do the binding except by hand so will probably leave it as a raw edge. I will, of course, steam it and iron it on the flange block that matches my crown block. A friend suggested I find a local upholstery shop and ask them if they can do the brim binding. Any suggestions from my fellow loungers would be more than welcome. I know there are several good hatters that I could send it to for brim binding, but I'd rather not wait for the turnaround time. A little bit OCD and impatient.

 

[TheDane]

A friend suggested I find a local upholstery shop and ask them if they can do the brim binding [...] I know there are several good hatters that I could send it to for brim binding, but I'd rather not wait for the turnaround time.

Let an upholstery shop repair your furniture, a dentist repair your teeth, and a hatter do your brim binding. The upholstery shop no doubt has a walking foot sewing machine, needed to do a decent binding job, but they lack the experience. They also don't know the standard procedures involved - procedures evolved and inherited over decades (if not centuries). I'd rather wait for a good job, than hurry to have a poor job done.

 

[bloc]

Started the new hat last night. Stretched furfelt capeline over vintage block using the puller downer and spinner then used the pusher downer to set the hat cord. Foot tolliker to set the brim break. View attachment 8460 All tools functioned as planned so far.

Looks like it's all going according to plan. Look forward to seeing more pics of work in progress.

 

[Hatter4]

I do all my sweatbands and brim trimming by hand.On all my hats.