Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

[Two Types]

I know there are plenty of people here who will welcome HBK's news about making jackets to sell.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Indeed. I am afraid I couldn't afford it myself but give me a holler when you are ready. I know some people who might be interested. I will gladly spread the word for you.

 

[scotrace]

p.s. i'm working on making a few of these jackets to sell. i'll announce it here if / when it happens.

That's the bit I was hoping to read. Fantastic jacket. Please make up several.

Indeed. I am afraid I couldn't afford it myself but give me a holler when you are ready. I know some people who might be interested. I will gladly spread the word for you.

The Fedora Lounge is The Spreader of The Word.

 

[Nick D]

Question for you gents. I'm working on a linen 3-piece, but I'm not sure what to make the waistcoat back out of. Normally I'd match it to the jacket lining, but since it's for a summer suit I'm inclined to do it from cotton. I don't have any good pictures of the backs of vintage summer waistcoats, does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[herringbonekid]

Nick,

i'd go for cotton sateen which has a dull sheen rather than the high gloss of a typical jacket lining:

 

[Nick D]

I like the sateen, I'll see if they have any at the local quilt shop later this afternoon.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I have no idea. Just some pictures of summer waistcoats I found in some folder.

 

[Nick D]

The first and third look like they're not lined in the back. That could be a good idea. If it doesn't work I could always put a back lining in.

 

[DamianM]

Its fine without lining.Other then being great looking suit's/vest's they where ment to function against the heat as well if you add lining it might interfere with the airflow and heat things up a little more.

What material are you using to make the suit?

Im in the process of copying a linen ralph lauren jacket with a pleated belt back and it is completely unlined

 

[herringbonekid]

Damian, is that the RRL ? ^

 

[DamianM]

No its 90s Ralph lauren. and its for a woman!

 

[Nick D]

Coming up bust on the sateen, and the nearest actual fabric store is an hour away. Either I'll have to get enough other things to make the drive worth it, or I'll get a decent 100% cotton from the quilt shop for the back. I'm going to flat fell the back seam.

 

[DamianM]

I just bought a good yardage of linen like material (maybe 15 yards?) at the thrift for 6 bucks, I doubt its for garments maybe for upholstery but its working really well so far
It is a form of linen with nubs and shine on one side but on the other side its not
it reminds me of this on the shiny side.

 

[Nick D]

That's the suit I'm basing mine off, though without the cuff treatment or the lapels on the waistcoat, and I'm adding darts and a belt on the jacket. The fabric is a medium weight linen, a light tan in color. It's lighter in weight than I would prefer, but it's worked okay for the trousers.

 

[DamianM]

so far I got the action pleated back made similar to the RL jacket I mentioned. So Its going to be a DB jacket. For the DB jacket I'm tracing it of one of my 30s jacket.
I'm using the non-shiny side and its looking good.
Ill post some progress images. soonish.

 

[Nick D]

Just complete linen trousers:

From the EvaDress '40s pattern, but I've gone down from a size 40 to 34. I had to rip out the fly and recut it and the fork to remove excess fabric in the front, and move the pleats back. At this size the cuffs are only 8.5", so this suit will have a bit of a '20s look, though I've widened the pattern to 10" for future trousers. A couple vintage buttons from my grandma's button box.

Waistcoat from the same linen:

From an original Weldon's pattern from the '40s, but I've graded it down from 40 to 38 using The American Gentlmen's Pattern Grader. The pockets are not properly positioned here, just placed to give an idea of the final. The top ones have straight sides and angled top and bottom. The lower pockets are square but tilted to match the angle of the top pockets, and the lower edge of the flaps matches the lower edge of the fronts.

 

[DamianM]

Its coming together well I see.
Awesome
Cant' wait till you get started on that jacket.

 

[herringbonekid]

good work Nick. do the trousers have pleats and front darts ?

 

[Nick D]

Thanks. They do have darts and pleats, which is from the pattern though the suit I'm basing this off also has that arrangement.

 

[DamianM]

are you going to add the 4 asymmetrical patch pockets?

I'm making mine vented and pleated to mimic the belt back