Formal Wear Primer

[John in Covina]

Is it a major faux pas to wear an un-matching ***merbund? Say a red ***merbund with a black tie?

***
Seems to me they should match. However maybe a vest could be different.

 

[Zach R.]

***
Seems to me they should match. However maybe a vest could be different.

Thats what I was thinking.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Shindeco,
A wonderful post. I enjoyed it immensely. Thank you.
Is that a peaked lapel white dinner jacket? That is the Holy Grail of vintage dinner jacket. Very nice indeed.

 

[John in Covina]

Is that a peaked lapel white dinner jacket? That is the Holy Grail of vintage dinner jacket. Very nice indeed.

****
I like the DB Peak Lapel Dinner Jacket Arnie wears in True Lies.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

****
I like the DB Peak Lapel Dinner Jacket Arnie wears in True Lies.

I'll have to take another look at that. It's on cable daily, afterall.

And there is the famous Indiana Jones Temple of Doom version.

 

[shindeco]

I've seen some guys sport this look, but is it a major faux pas to wear an un-matching ***merbund? Say a red ***merbund with a black tie?
Also, what about a jacket with peak lapels and a ***merbund(black to match a black bowtie)?

When ***merbunds were first being worn in the 30s, they were often burgundy, but always with a black bowtie. In fact, to wear a coloured bowtie would have been considered a faux pas but the mismatched bowtie/***merbund would have been considered fashionably daring! They were most often worn with a white mess jacket or white dinner jacket rather than a dinner jacket.

***merbunds have always been considered more casual than a waistcoat so to pair them with the most formal style jacket would have raised a few eyebrows back then. Certainly by the 60s, it had become quite acceptable.

 

[Briscoeteque]

What kind of hat can you wear with black tie? Aren't top hats tails only?

And the black-tie only dinner jacket, if I was going for an early 60's lounge look, and the tuxedo was closely tailored and had a maroon linining, would wearing a maroon bow tie be criminal? And what should be worn around the waist? Could a ***burbun be black, because I'm having trouble finding one that exactly matches the tie I picked up.

 

[John in Covina]

What kind of hat can you wear with black tie? Aren't top hats tails only? And the black-tie only dinner jacket, if I was going for an early 60's lounge look, and the tuxedo was closely tailored and had a maroon linining, would wearing a maroon bow tie be criminal? And what should be worn around the waist? Could a ***burbun be black, because I'm having trouble finding one that exactly matches the tie I picked up.

******
While enroute I would suppose a black fedora would be ok, but not worn into the event.

On ***merbunds, if you were suspenders (braces) you aren't supposed to wear a ***merbund. Maybe that will help.

 

[Briscoeteque]

So I just wear suspenders like I do with my suits and never un-button the jacket? I have to get this right, because I've worn this suit twice before and it look absolutely awful because I blew the look. I wore it with a pleated shirt with a wing collar, which was simply awful. I think I'm just going to get a stiff regular white shirt.



Prom, a year ago. I was young and stupid, and was just beginning to have good taste. That is clearly not evident in this picture. Since then I've had it taken in big time, and threw out that terrible shirt.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hmmmmm, ***merbund.

The ones i've seen for sale recently come as a ***merbund and bowtie set - matching colour. I'd say forego the ***merbund and get a formal waistcoat. I never liked ***merbunds.

***merbunds were a Tropics thing, right?

bk

 

[Zach R.]

Thanks for the info, Shindeco.

I think I've figured out what look I'm going to go for, what would you guys say to this combo?

White dinner jacket
Burgandy ***merbund
black bowtie(possibly bat-winged, depending on what I can find)
plain-front(non-pleated) french-cuffed shirt w/wing collar
black tuxedo slacks w/velvet stripe
patent leather oxford

Too much clashing, you think?

I figure, our prom is in late May, so a white dinner jacked would be suitable?

 

[3PieceSuitGuy]

You are a legend

Shindeco,

As we say over here in Oz, you are a legend! (Don't worry it's a good thing). I have always wondered what the loop at the back of a tux shirt was for and now I know.

Does anyone know if the modern version is the wing collar shirt with the collar that only shows the front half of the bowtie? I have seen a number of celebrities wearing it and wondered what the deal was!

Thanks very much!

Cheers

Peter

 

[GateXC]

You can get the 6 button db waistcoat here in tan or grey:

http://www.pakeman.co.uk/products.asp?cat=27

The buttons aren't as tight together but close enough.

 

[John in Covina]

You can get the 6 button db waistcoat here in tan or grey:
http://www.pakeman.co.uk/products.asp?cat=27
The buttons aren't as tight together but close enough.

*****
I contacted them, but they were unable to do it in a larger (52 Reg) size.
Let me know if you come across anything else.

 

[shindeco]

Thanks for the info, Shindeco.

I think I've figured out what look I'm going to go for, what would you guys say to this combo?

White dinner jacket
Burgandy ***merbund
black bowtie(possibly bat-winged, depending on what I can find)
plain-front(non-pleated) french-cuffed shirt w/wing collar
black tuxedo slacks w/velvet stripe
patent leather oxford

Too much clashing, you think?

I figure, our prom is in late May, so a white dinner jacked would be suitable?

Zach,

That sounds very classy. May sounds fine for a white dinner jacket. Do you know how to tie a bowtie? Self tied is always preferable; it's very easy to tie. It's the same knot you use for your shoelaces.

If you can't find a bowtie, making one is dead easy (and you can size it to your neck size so there's no buckle--a formal bowtie really shouldn't have a buckle if it's worn with a wingtip collar). PM me if you want info about sewing your own.

Murray

 

[shindeco]

Shindeco,

Does anyone know if the modern version is the wing collar shirt with the collar that only shows the front half of the bowtie? I have seen a number of celebrities wearing it and wondered what the deal was!

Peter

The tube back is more to hide the buckle that most modern bowties have. Even the self-tied formal ties today have buckles. The old ones were sized.

 

[Zach R.]

Yes, I'm looking to get a self-tie, and I already have a narrow bow tie to try and perfect(or develop) my tying skills...easy, eh? I beg to differ.

 

[David V]

Shindeco,

As we say over here in Oz, you are a legend! (Don't worry it's a good thing). I have always wondered what the loop at the back of a tux shirt was for and now I know.

Does anyone know if the modern version is the wing collar shirt with the collar that only shows the front half of the bowtie? I have seen a number of celebrities wearing it and wondered what the deal was!

Thanks very much!

Cheers

Peter

Perhaps they are just wearing the tie and shirt wrong. We just don't have the quality of celebrities we used to .

 

[Fu Manchu]

Spats?

When is it appropriate to wear spats?

Thanks,

Fu Manchu

 

[David V]

When is it appropriate to wear spats?

Thanks,

Fu Manchu

It is not part of Formal Wear.

It was an optional part of Day Wear when the morning Coat and Cutaway was the business wear of the day. Look at all those pre-WWI diplomats.