dating a vintage Lee 101-J

[Raul]

Hi all,
a guy I know is selling this nice vintage Lee 101-J jacket:





What puzzles me is that it has an internal label that, as far as I know, should be from the 60s (with made in USA and the R mark only) but above the left pocket it has a label with R+MR (that is more 70s) when I was expecting R only. It has an 82 code in the back of the buttons








Does anyone know if this can still be dated from the late 60s? Was there some transitional period with a mix-match of R and R+MR?
I own a 101-J with "opposite labels" R+MR in the internal label but R only on the pocket, it's all very confusing...


Any help is appreciated.


Thanks

 

[One Drop]

Hi all,
a guy I know is selling this nice vintage Lee 101-J jacket:





What puzzles me is that it has an internal label that, as far as I know, should be from the 60s (with made in USA and the R mark only) but above the left pocket it has a label with R+MR (that is more 70s) when I was expecting R only. It has an 82 code in the back of the buttons








Does anyone know if this can still be dated from the late 60s? Was there some transitional period with a mix-match of R and R+MR?
I own a 101-J with "opposite labels" R+MR in the internal label but R only on the pocket, it's all very confusing...


Any help is appreciated.


Thanks

I'm no expert, but I did wear these a lot through the '60s and '70s as a kid and a teenager, and have bought and still own two vintage ones, one from the '60s, one from the '70s, that I bought after watching eBay auctions, Grailed and Etsy posts for a long while until good deals in the condition I wanted popped up. This was a good resource for dating labels, it's also linked in this excellent thread here on the lounge, both of which I'm sure you're already familiar with.

http://www.redcloud.co.jp/detail/lee.htm

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/buying-the-right-lee-101j.70233/

My guess is that yours is probably indeed transitional, from around 1970, as it has a rare internal label that indicates late '60s but without the Union made phrase,, and the pocket tag that was used on jeans, shirts and jackets from the early '70s.

IME the 60s and 70s 101j are identical in very way except for slight label changes. That's a really nice one, perfect worn in condition without any damage, and a nice amount of fade. From my experience the price shouldn't be any different whether it dates from '69, '70, 0r '71, so it's mostly an academic question.

 

[Raul]

I'm no expert, but I did wear these a lot through the '60s and '70s as a kid and a teenager, and have bought and still own two vintage ones, one from the '60s, one from the '70s, that I bought after watching eBay auctions, Grailed and Etsy posts for a long while until good deals in the condition I wanted popped up. This was a good resource for dating labels, it's also linked in this excellent thread here on the lounge, both of which I'm sure you're already familiar with.

http://www.redcloud.co.jp/detail/lee.htm

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/buying-the-right-lee-101j.70233/

My guess is that yours is probably indeed transitional, from around 1970, as it has a rare internal label that indicates late '60s but without the Union made phrase,, and the pocket tag that was used on jeans, shirts and jackets from the early '70s.

IME the 60s and 70s 101j are identical in very way except for slight label changes. That's a really nice one, perfect worn in condition without any damage, and a nice amount of fade. From my experience the price shouldn't be any different whether it dates from '69, '70, 0r '71, so it's mostly an academic question.

Thank you for your reply, that confirm my opinion. Yes the jacket is very nice but the guy is asking 180 €, a bit too much in my opinion, what do you think would be a fair price? I was thinking no more than 130-140€, I bought a nice one size 42 a couple of years ago for about 100, I love it but it's a bit large on me, so I wouold like to buy this 40 too

 

[One Drop]

Thank you for your reply, that confirm my opinion. Yes the jacket is very nice but the guy is asking 180 €, a bit too much in my opinion, what do you think would be a fair price? I was thinking no more than 130-140€, I bought a nice one size 42 a couple of years ago for about 100, I love it but it's a bit large on me, so I would like to buy this 40 too

Actually, for the condition and year of manufacture I think the price is reasonable for Europe. Lee in general and their denim jackets in particular seem to have become more popular over the last few years and the slowly rising prices reflect that. In addition, vintage examples like that are rare in Europe, and you can easily spend 50% or more of the selling price on shipping and duties if buying from the US.

 

[Raul]

Thank you. Got it for 150€ shipped, not bad.

 

[One Drop]

Thank you. Got it for 150€ shipped, not bad.

Well done, wear it well!

 

[Raul]

I hope it is as nice as it is in pics. The only negative is one missing cat-eye button on the back, any idea if these buttons are avaiable somewhere? I have one missing also in my 60s storm rider

 

[One Drop]

I hope it is as nice as it is in pics. The only negative is one missing cat-eye button on the back, any idea if these buttons are avaiable somewhere? I have one missing also in my 60s storm rider

I'm sure it will be, there seems to be no damage or stains or weird fades. It's a bit frustrating buying used denim, it's so hard to photograph denim properly as the photos rarely do justice to the real colour, and the fades often appear more extreme than they are.

I didn't measure the Lee button, but perhaps you can find a close match here? :

https://bennosbuttons.com/cz-49-genuine-corozo-shirt-button.html

Or one of these,, or elsewhere on Etsy :

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1607528265/fish-eye-buttons-natural-horn-light?ls=s&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=cat+eye+buttons+sewing+&+fiber&ref=sr_gallery-1-3&sts=1&content_source=f4fa612e6464d971fb9c50ae73de4036c0237e48%3A1607528265&search_preloaded_img=1&organic_search_click=1&logging_key=f4fa612e6464d971fb9c50ae73de4036c0237e48:1607528265&variation0=4370972111

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1636862226/black-button-cat-eye-cut-out-round-shape?ls=s&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=cat+eye+buttons+sewing+&+fiber&ref=sr_gallery-1-4&pro=1&content_source=424f846cf6b06eb15b17fc90e5f9285afe644bf0%3A1636862226&organic_search_click=1&logging_key=424f846cf6b06eb15b17fc90e5f9285afe644bf0:1636862226

 

[Raul]

Thank you. The buttons are 15mm (5/8") with a slim edge and the cut that reach the edge. The ones on the Storm Rider (above) are a bit more shiny and the ones on the 101-J (below) more matte.
I'll see if I can find something close to these

 

[Jasonissm]

Just got my 101-J as well, early 70s I believe.

Red number on union label
MR on the tiny Lee tab
Union Made in USA on the Square tag
A little rough condition may need to darn a few holes but it was cheap, all the hardware is there including sleeve and catseye buttons and the fades are so lovely that I couldn't resist.

 

[One Drop]

I ran into a friend the other day who was also rocking the 101-J, his is a current standard production model, cut slightly longer and having the side pockets. The denim is noticeably cheaper feeling, not in the same ballpark as the originals or the Lee 101 reissues. My jeans are the 101 '50s Rider, Italian made with the straight wide leg from Japanese selvedge denim, shirt is the fabulous Rite Stuff sage green chambray work shirt, and the hat a vintage Akubra Snowy River that I've worn to heck and back, and is still going strong.

 

[newtojackets]

Could anyone help me date this?

 

[NAB]

Could anyone help me date this?

View attachment 774462 View attachment 774463 View attachment 774464

It's much more recent than the others in this thread and I assume made overseas. Perhaps the back of the care label says?

 

[l0fielectronic]

Yes, this is basically their current label.