Cuffed or plain? Hemming question.

[Kostya]

First of all, which is preferred for plain-front, cuffed or plain hems? Let's say 1920s-30s. Were both common?

Secondly, when doing plain hems, what should the stitching look like? i.e., how far between the bottom and the stitch?

Pics would help.

 

[mannySpaghetti]

When you say "plain-front", do you mean trousers with no pleats? As far as cuffs go, I'd go with 1" cuffs. Give it some pizazz! If you go with no cuffs, make sure the seamstress leaves some extra leg, just in case you want to put cuffs on later.

 

[Max Flash]

If it's pizzazz you want, definitely go with cuffs. On my tailor-made suits, I have 1.5 inch cuffs (or turn-ups as we Brits call them!). The extra details like that, slanted pockets on the jacket and an extra ticket pocket, make it all personal.

I always get flat-fronted trousers on suits. Looks better IMO.

 

[Kostya]

Cuffed or Plain

OK, to clarify, I meant on PLAIN FRONT pants (NO PLEATS), which is more period-correct: CUFFED OR NO CUFFS.

I think for pleated pants, cuffs look better than plain, but for non-pleated pants, I'm not sure.

 

[Creeping Past]

I've a couple of pairs of flat-fronted high-rise trousers with cuffs/turn-ups. They look good.

 

[thunderw21]

I've a couple of pairs of flat-fronted high-rise trousers with cuffs/turn-ups. They look good.

Same here.

Plain front can go either way, but pleated trousers should have cuffs.

 

[carter]

BINGO

Same here.

Plain front can go either way, but pleated trousers should have cuffs.

Yep. Cuffs for pleats and dress pants. No cuffs for casual flat front, jeans, workwear, etc.

 

[Tomasso]

Plain front can go either way, but pleated trousers should have cuffs.

That's my view as well, though trousers will generally hang better with cuffs, especially those made of lightweight fabrics.

I believe Golden Era cuffs were on the high side, around 2". (Baron!?!?)

 

[Rachael]

or if you want hemmed trousers to hang without a cuff, ask for the hem to be interfaced with horsehair. This will give the same weight and make the hem very crips as well.

 

[Lone_Ranger]

Not exactly a fashion statement, but related to the Golden Age....

I remember reading a biography of an A-20 Havoc pilot that mentioned hemming a pair of civilian pants. Due to the war time rationing, if he asked the tailor to hem the pants they would keep the "surplus" material. If cuffed, the extra material stayed with the pants.

 

[der schneider]

Yes the war changed the fashions somewhat with rationing. Hem lines went up and cuffs went out for most folks.

1 1/2 - 1 1/4 inch cuffs are standard these days. 1 3/4 was popular in the late 70's and early 80's some ethinic folk still ask for 2 and 3 inch cuffs these days.

On a plain hem 3 inches is good to leave in the hem and if need be, you can make that hem into a 1 1/2 french cuff or if from France you can call it a English cuff or false cuff.

I personaly think french cuffs were the most common type of cuffed hem prior to the felling or blind stitch machine's rise to power.

Today mens fashion is very fortunate. you can wear whatever you like as long as you keep the fashion well balanced and dont mix styles. The proper shoes, belt or suspenders proper tie and shirt combination are mandatory for a good look with the suit style you choose, be it vintage 30's - 80's