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Doctor Damage

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,487
Location
Ontario
I became interested in the fabric and did some looking around, the only currently available Kersey wool products I found were up to around 500 g/m2, about the same weight as heavy canvas.

There are reproductions of historical cloths used for reenactment military uniforms, and for general uses, but I never found anything in the weights used for the Peacoats.

I can guarantee that if there was a viable source of quality Kersey that resembled the kind used in the real Navy Peacoat, there would be many brands already using it for their versions.
I'd be willing to bet you could find something like that cloth being used in luxury overcoats, from brands that charge $5,000+ per coat, etc. In other words, luxury stuff only.

As for military uniforms, vintage stuff varies wildly in terms of weight, thickness, etc. I suspect with the old peacoats it's a really tight weave and the surface finish which makes them so good in terms of wind and rain/snow.
 

Gromit

One of the Regulars
Messages
122
Hey guys, could you please check the fit of this WWII peacoat? I feel like it is tight in the chest and a bit in the shoulders. Still wearable though. Pit to pit is about 19". I am usually a size 36 (as you can see, some of the buttons are missing)
 

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Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,085
Location
South of Nashville
Hey guys, could you please check the fit of this WWII peacoat? I feel like it is tight in the chest and a bit in the shoulders. Still wearable though. Pit to pit is about 19". I am usually a size 36 (as you can see, some of the buttons are missing)
Yes, it is wearable, but I would prefer a size larger. In addition to what you mentioned, I would like another inch or so in the sleeves and the body.
 

Gromit

One of the Regulars
Messages
122
Yes, it is wearable, but I would prefer a size larger. In addition to what you mentioned, I would like another inch or so in the sleeves and the body.
Should I look for one where pit to pit measurement is about 20"? I believe I have already had one and it was a bit large in the chest
 

WolfofStateSt

Practically Family
Messages
654
Hey guys, could you please check the fit of this WWII peacoat? I feel like it is tight in the chest and a bit in the shoulders. Still wearable though. Pit to pit is about 19". I am usually a size 36 (as you can see, some of the buttons are missing)
It fits fine…, sleeves and shoulders are perfect. I would keep it… just be honest with yourself and know that you won’t and shouldn’t layer under this jacket. A T shirt or button down… maybe a very fine gauge sweater. Peacoat’s aren’t parkas, you have to pick deliberately what you intend to use it for. I have two peacoats… one huge 1913 for layering over chunky knits and one Billy Reid for tailored clothing. I say just keep this one if you like it. One caveat, if it feels uncomfortable like it is slowly choking you or you can’t move then it is too small and I would sell it; otherwise looks fine. Only you can say how it feels though.
 

WolfofStateSt

Practically Family
Messages
654
Yes, it is wearable, but I would prefer a size larger. In addition to what you mentioned, I would like another inch or so in the sleeves and the body.
Yeah I suppose if you lift your arms up at all those sleeves are going to ride back… the sleeves on my 1913 cover the first inch of my wrist palm but that means they never show wrist when I am in motion
 

Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,085
Location
South of Nashville
Hi everyone. I recently found this peacoat at a local market with an interesting weave pattern that I haven't found before on these vintage US navy peacoats. It has no tags inside.

Now I'm usually pretty good at identifying original ones based on tags and/or stitching (thanks to the PEACOAT thread on this site). But this one got me a bit off guard.

Notice (i) the weave pattern is quite visible, (ii) it has a corduroy lining pocket, but (iii) a single line of stitching on sleeves (instead of 2).

Thoughts on this? Imitation or real?
This is definitely an issue coat––what we call a WW II coat. Something has happened to the Kersey finish, but it is the real deal.
 

WolfofStateSt

Practically Family
Messages
654
Should I look for one where pit to pit measurement is about 20"? I believe I have already had one and it was a bit large in the chest
Idk man… those original peacoats are affordable and well made, but in my experience trying to get the perfect tailored fit is a pain and a waste of time. They’re standardized military sizing, not intended to look tailored or sharp. We think they are automatically, because of what peacoats have come to be associated with in the fashion world over the last few decades — but these jackets were meant to keep you warm while you hunted German U-Boats in the North Atlantic, not to get you a phone number at a coffee shop in the modern day. Still… I find they can do a serviceable job of both. I’d recommend getting a modern homage if you’re looking for perfect tailoring. I know a lot of people who are in between sizes on these old peacoats, and at that point you’re pretty much SOL. That, or just make peace with an imperfect fit — as long as you like the jacket, that’s all that matters. :)
 
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Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,085
Location
South of Nashville
Hey guys, could you please check the fit of this WWII peacoat? I feel like it is tight in the chest and a bit in the shoulders. Still wearable though. Pit to pit is about 19". I am usually a size 36 (as you can see, some of the buttons are missing)
The smaller sizes (34, 36 and 38) are measured differently than the normal sizes. I have no idea why this is, but I have found it to be consistent over the modern years.

I would expect a tag size of 34 to measure about 19" p2p. The coat you are wearing in the image is a size 34.

A tag size of 36 would be about 20" p2p.

So, your usual size would be about 20" p2p. But that raises the question of whether your usual size is determined from trying on peacoats, or whether you are using you normal jacket size. If using your normal jacket size, then that is a good place to start, but it won't necessarily give you an accurate fit in the peacoat.

In the Guides Section, I have a complete guide to getting the proper fit in a US Navy Peacoat. I recommend your read that. There is also a section on proper fit in my guide to Dating the US Navy Peacoat. If you have questions, I will be glad to answer them. Just post them here.
 

Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,085
Location
South of Nashville
Idk man… those original peacoats are affordable and well made, but in my experience trying to get the perfect tailored fit is a pain and a waste of time. They’re standardized military sizing, not intended to look tailored or sharp. We think they are automatically, because of what peacoats have come to be associated with in the fashion world over the last few decades — but these jackets were meant to keep you warm while you hunted German U-Boats in the North Atlantic, not to get you a phone number at a coffee shop in the modern day. Still… I find they can do a serviceable job of both. I’d recommend getting a modern homage if you’re looking for perfect tailoring. I know a lot of people who are in between sizes on these old peacoats, and at that point you’re pretty much SOL. That, or just make peace with an imperfect fit — as long as you like the jacket, that’s all that matters. :)
Wolf, I understand your frustration at finding an issue Navy peacoat that fits. But, quite frankly, you are just too tall. At 6' 4" and 200 pounds, you are well outside the parameters established by the Navy for fitting coats to their recruits. As you have determined, your search must take you elsewhere.

As for the difficulty in fitting one who is in between sizes. Not a problem. I am a tweener and can get a perfect fit. My Guide discusses that situation.

The peacoat has evolved into a dress item and not a work item. There are deck jackets, both permeable and impermeable for those activities in all sorts of weather. The Navy does a good job of taking care of its sailors.
 

Gromit

One of the Regulars
Messages
122
Thanks for the input, guys, and I will check your guide, Peacoat. I have a 36" chest (maybe even a bit smaller) and usually a 36 in other brands, so I thought I should look for the size 36" specifically
 

Preppy Climber

One of the Regulars
Messages
119
Hey guys, could you please check the fit of this WWII peacoat? I feel like it is tight in the chest and a bit in the shoulders. Still wearable though. Pit to pit is about 19". I am usually a size 36 (as you can see, some of the buttons are missing)
If you feel the peacoat is tight in the chest and shoulders, then it is too small for you. You did say the peacoat is wearable, but I would assume if it's tight in the areas you mentioned, it wouldn't be a comfortable fit.
 
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WolfofStateSt

Practically Family
Messages
654
Wolf, I understand your frustration at finding an issue Navy peacoat that fits. But, quite frankly, you are just too tall. At 6' 4" and 200 pounds, you are well outside the parameters established by the Navy for fitting coats to their recruits. As you have determined, your search must take you elsewhere.

As for the difficulty in fitting one who is in between sizes. Not a problem. I am a tweener and can get a perfect fit. My Guide discusses that situation.

The peacoat has evolved into a dress item and not a work item. There are deck jackets, both permeable and impermeable for those activities in all sorts of weather. The Navy does a good job of taking care of its sailors.
Touche :)
 

WolfofStateSt

Practically Family
Messages
654
The peacoat has evolved into a dress item and not a work item. There are deck jackets, both permeable and impermeable for those activities in all sorts of weather. The Navy does a good job of taking care of its sailors.
Of all the Armed Forces, I have found that Navy has, in my opinion, the coolest outerwear and attire. Their clothing has the most unique identity and tradition of all the branches, and the most usable in everyday life. Chambray shirts, N1s, G1s, GOB & Submarine sweaters, Peacoats (obviously), the menagerie of denim items, deck shoes, officer dress Oxford shoes, USN parkas, the various dive watches issued post WW2… the Navy is my favorite branch style wise. My hot take is that the Army and Marines contributed the OG-107a and M65 but outside of that…. the Air Force has it’s flight jackets which are beautiful pieces but outside of that?

*I’m talking about things you can wear in everyday life, not dress blues or whatever so don’t @ me
 

Preppy Climber

One of the Regulars
Messages
119
I would expect a tag size of 34 to measure about 19" p2p.
I measured my two WWII U.S. Navy peacoats size 34. They indeed measure 19" pit to pit.*

My three U.S. Navy peacoats size 32 (two WWII and one late 40s) measure 18" pit to pit.

I'm 5' 1," 100 lbs. and size 32 fits me very well. Size 34 is oversized on me but not uncomfortably so. I'll wear one or the other size depending on how much weight I've gained or lost.

*Update/Correction: One of my WWII peacoats, labeled as size 34, has the same pit to pit measurement as the size 32--18." I suspect the wrong label was attached to the coat.
 
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Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,085
Location
South of Nashville
Of all the Armed Forces, I have found that Navy has, in my opinion, the coolest outerwear and attire. Their clothing has the most unique identity and tradition of all the branches, and the most usable in everyday life. Chambray shirts, N1s, G1s, GOB & Submarine sweaters, Peacoats (obviously), the menagerie of denim items, deck shoes, officer dress Oxford shoes, USN parkas, the various dive watches issued post WW2… the Navy is my favorite branch style wise. My hot take is that the Army and Marines contributed the OG-107a and M65 but outside of that…. the Air Force has it’s flight jackets which are beautiful pieces but outside of that?

*I’m talking about things you can wear in everyday life, not dress blues or whatever so don’t @ me
I agree 100%. And for all the reasons and clothing items you cited.
 

Peacoat

Bartender
Messages
7,085
Location
South of Nashville
I measured my two WWII U.S. Navy peacoats size 34. They indeed measure 19" pit to pit.*

My three U.S. Navy peacoats size 32 (two WWII and one late 40s) measure 18" pit to pit.

I'm 5' 1," 100 lbs. and size 32 fits me very well. Size 34 is oversized on me but not uncomfortably so. I'll wear one or the other size depending on how much weight I've gained or lost.

*Update/Correction: One of my WWII peacoats, labeled as size 34, has the same pit to pit measurement as the size 32--18." I suspect the wrong label was attached to the coat.
Thank you for reminding me about the size 32 peacoat. They are so rare I had forgotten about them. And yes, as you noted, the p2p on the size 32 is 18".

Your WW II peacoat could be mislabeled, or I have found that the WW II coats were a bit smaller than the subsequent years. That would explain the anomaly, especially if your coat was manufactured pre-war or very early in the war.
 

Preppy Climber

One of the Regulars
Messages
119
Thank you for reminding me about the size 32 peacoat. They are so rare I had forgotten about them. And yes, as you noted, the p2p on the size 32 is 18".

Your WW II peacoat could be mislabeled, or I have found that the WW II coats were a bit smaller than the subsequent years. That would explain the anomaly, especially if your coat was manufactured pre-war or very early in the war.
I love my peacoats for a variety of reasons, including proudly wearing a part of U.S. history. ❤️
 

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