Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[tmitchell59]

1937 Catalog with the back shot

1938 Catalog

1939 Catalog

1940 Sears Catalog

 

[tmitchell59]

1941 Sears Catalog

1942 Sears Catalog

 

[tmitchell59]

I picked this up last week. I was surprised it fit, not many jackets from the 50’s have sleeves long enough. It’s labeled a size 46, which in modern jackets would be too big for me. Looks to be a Monarch knock off, and made very well.
Original Serval zippers, and nice quilted lining. View attachment 384717 View attachment 384718 View attachment 384719 View attachment 384716

Similar in black steerhide

 

[tmitchell59]

Patened inner collar label. I have seen this label in other jackets. I believe this patent was held by Roughwear Clothing. I've never looked it up. Just putting a few things together.

 

[tmitchell59]

Iconic Hercules (not mine)

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[tmitchell59]

This jackets looks to be the later edition. c,1941

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[Cornelius]

1940 Sears Catalog

View attachment 384694

Love that note about the "rubber lined humidor chest pocket" with a pack of cigarettes in the illustration. I suppose this answers a question in another thread regarding the pocket layout of one of @MrProper's 5* jackets.

 

[ton312]

No repro maker has ever been able to properly duplicate the original Herc. It’s just not possible. That jacket is magic in a bottle and it simply can’t be reimagined or recreated.

 

[photo2u]

View attachment 384882 View attachment 384880 View attachment 384881 View attachment 384878 View attachment 384883 View attachment 384879 View attachment 384884 View attachment 384887 View attachment 384885 View attachment 384886

That is pure diamonds!

 

[John A Koehler]

Nice! Is this one of your’s TMitchell?

[/QUOTE]

 

[tmitchell59]

Nice! Is this one of your’s TMitchell?

[/QUOTE]

No, not mine. Forgot the link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144318739435

 

[tmitchell59]

No repro maker has ever been able to properly duplicate the original Herc. It’s just not possible. That jacket is magic in a bottle and it simply can’t be reimagined or recreated.

That is pure diamonds!

I have a few more pics somewhere, but these pretty well illustrate the Original Hercules.

The last images show a change in back design.

I assume that Monarch of Milwaukee made these jackets. I'm sure they made other jackets for Sears and other catalogs, just no sure which jackets.

The Original design lasted more years than I recalled. Running from 1935-1942. The originals show up, but not that often. This surprises me since they were available for so many years. Of course these were not the only Leather jacket produced or sold during these Golden Years.

WWII changed many things in many ways and leather jacket design was no different. The large makers, like Monarch, got contracts for military equipment. I would think this seriously altered their approach to Civilian garment design and production.

Post war we have the Motorcycle jacket boom. Everyone, including Monarch got involved. The "Aviation" look popular before and during the war was replaced with the MC jacket.

That history is another chapter.

 

[tmitchell59]

Keeping in the Monarch theme here is a C.1936 Suede Monarch. Incredible condition for a very delicate material that is 85 years old! Yes, think of that, 85 years and still very wearable. The inner lining needs a bit of attention, but all else is good.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Wool turn up neck bands:
Was this an original feature that was discontinued later or some of the vintage jackets wool neck bands simply worn out?

This is the first time I've seen wool neck bands on no bomber (letterman) jackets. Makes a whole lot of sense. Even better and more practical than fur collars, then or now. Thanks for the detail photos @tmitchell59

 

[tmitchell59]

The inner Collar? They disappear in the 40s as far as I can tell. They do show up on various labeled jackets. I noticed it is dropped on the Hercules by the end of the run. My guess; too expensive/or just not worth the money to install. They had to pay a fee for the use of the collar. Both these jacket below are quite old and they are still there.

Here is is on the Roughwear

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oVGiLNzD2TJk3qGGV4q03Pdw4zagsCbBZT5s2hFQ_mRQwewRD-S17U83MAA8xrvNdSNmuSBGfV7SxdC9pmIRp5i7YAYCMBjK45xTzvObdPntZa_76vSyKBR8TGwb2z9N0hQFFk25Ne5f6rT***KNQrJShhXMTj_tqEwAVT4VTETKcZwYsGPPGmtrV--_RxQMPPUSvx4r3Z3TlH4eEMmuhai8IrVQPH49tqYb0-1dGlT5QwyDkTpV1BkG7V60QfuMRNkp2lenYTQNIxJFUNHyACNNPoIxooGVlsyxEwyVW4KdBDsDhOi_QGU-2YPifO54k1ZWSri596oQb_2Pj6RElyvI8YXispMPqmhnTUb26wCDN_w8TuNjgUzUBoa4iuASpqqHxBsaWB6v_d0C17NXxqv-bGcsxgHSHyRwtGRne-5BQYApQemILor1IfnPrAYYuOKLJY0qXntHjWyKEGMiFwPL2z6HgaBvpa8P7eoEfz_uWxayoFEexgVKIFV91C0aFYNKraAjxppbUiwNUqQxrLOthCKL8NUXLX0AwOHk1xOHpLQkWjhyQVJxSOLgo0SYP3_TvWsZm9GNWGO7j3gbZwJ1b7eYCqQzpDMbrlhWtrUs2NKWPv8jqfKOgFwGCTfzTr17cGJXRiNjP_3dy22Ol0HrySnn0t9_5q3TrijjzubLjvlu4UZIh-P62v6lzieSOqw1l_OAr61tBX0y_ZwxV8ru=w959-h736-no?authuser=0

 

[jonesy86]

This is the 50s edition of the above jacket. Gathered sides, no adjustment, plain button cuffs.

50s label

Blackened early 50s zipper

gathered sides and plain cuffs

That looks just like the one you sent me. Not going swimming in this one.

 

[jonesy86]

Patened inner collar label. I have seen this label in other jackets. I believe this patent was held by Roughwear Clothing. I've never looked it up. Just putting a few things together.

This jacket first appeared in the 1935 catalog.

View attachment 384686

View attachment 384687



It is the first Sears catalog jacket I found made with separate sides unlike the Cossack which was a front and back sewn together.

1934 Cossack style jacket

View attachment 384688

This jacket was listed for several years in the Sears catalog. I'm not quite sure how to more closely date the jacket. The labels may have changed, or the label placement I just don't recall.

Interesting note: the 1st back shots of jackets are these in 1934

View attachment 384689

This was a Sears Star when introduced, it did not have much competition and was advertised as "new" in style.

1936 Sears Catalog

View attachment 384690


In a couple of years there was competition in the catalog and this jacket went away.

1937 Catalog-Selling that Back!



View attachment 384680

View attachment 384681

Seen in a variety of linings, this is the lighter, also seen in wool. The outer style did not change but the inner offerings did. Also sold in Brown.

good shot of the back. both side adjustments are missing on this jacket. they are just above the hemline. As Iconic as this jackets is, I find the design flawed, too long in length for the low side adjustments, makes this jacket an awkward fit. I understand why they removed them.
View attachment 384683

here is the original throat tab relocated to the bottom closure. They must have found it more useful there.

View attachment 384684

The original main zipper would have been a sunrise Talon. This Talon ball and chain original remains. These pulls are a Mark of distinction.

View attachment 384685

I love the research that goes into the history of these jackets. Thank you:

 

[madhu]

I love the research that goes into the history of these jackets. Thank you:
View attachment 385252 View attachment 385253

Haha, how cool! With shirt and tie, too. When was that taken?