How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[Will Zach]

Received this Grais leather jacket. Seller said he bought it in 1949. Finally 1st hand experience as to what 40s HH is like before aging and drying up.

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Almost NOS. Wow.

 

[tmitchell59]

Well now we’re going to need a full review, don’t leave us hanging. Looks incredible, great score.

Me too. Nice to get a date with the jacket. It looks quite nice. Vintage jackets can come in very nice shape. Look forward to hearing more.

 

[tmitchell59]

I have box that DHL just delivered from Japan. Incredible how fast buyee processes a purchase.

 

[Blackadder]

Well now we’re going to need a full review, don’t leave us hanging. Looks incredible, great score.

Just a few observations.
1) The leather surface looks very close to the shiniki on a RM Buco but feels slightly heavier than the shiniki;
2) The cutting is similar to the Schott Perfecto with serious drop from chest to waist which is very different from the Buco J-24, Beck 333, Hercules D pocket and HD Cycle Champ etc. style of the same era;
3) they do purposefully use different parts of leather and with different thickness, e.g. the belt and epaulets are thinner than other parts of the jackets. The underside of the sleeves match with the front and back and are smoother but the outside of the sleeves are more grainy.

 

[ton312]

Just sent Denny an email. I’m so enamored with this zip sleeve HWM I’d like to build a winter version. This jacket:

But spec’d this way:
Midnight blue FQHH
Retain front and back yoke
Nickel hardware
Standard/storm cuff sleeve
Brown corduroy liner
Delete waist band
Move side adjusters up 3” to match above
(Or send them unattached and I’ll have Dena do it)
Keep all measurements (length/width) the same.
I’m not sure they’ll do it...



...but I am hopeful.

 

[handymike]

Wasn’t that model called the G5?

 

[navetsea]

Do you want the mane again?
Since you delete the waist band, dont you want something else like a throat latch or something?

 

[ton312]

Wasn’t that model called the G5?

Pretty close. I don’t think it had a yoke in front though. Can’t remember.

 

[ton312]

Do you want the mane again?
Since you delete the waist band, dont you want something else like a throat latch or something?

I thought about the latch. I think no. Extra simple. No mane. Just an exceedingly basic jacket in an exceptional hide.

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Received this Grais leather jacket. Seller said he bought it in 1949. Finally 1st hand experience as to what 40s HH is like before aging and drying up.
Awesome!!! Size?

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[jonesy86]

I have a Five Star goatskin knockoff coming. I sent Shawn some pictures of what style I wanted, asked about light weight goatskin, we decided on the lining, thread color, and buttons. I sent him jacket measurements that I wanted and it shipped in less than 2 weeks. View attachment 258004 View attachment 258005 View attachment 258006 View attachment 258008

My custom Five Star jacket arrived today, DHL Express 8 days from Pakistan. It is a dark seal brown goatskin, about 2.5 ounces or one mm in thickness, and the whole jacket weighs around 3.4 pounds. The leather is chrome tanned, has a nice light weight hand, drapes nicely, and has a pleasant new leather scent. The jacket has cognac colored light weight cotton lining, and pocket pouches, #5 Talon zippers, and Shawn threw in an inside pocket and horn buttons at no extra charge.

This is what I ordered:
Leather : Seal Brown lightweight Goatskin
Lining : Cognac Cotton lining
Zippers : Talon
Thread : You haven't for it. You can select from the available options. Otherwise matches to leather can be used.
Your Garment will have the below mentioned measurements
Chest 25 inches
Shoulder 20 inches
Sleeves 27 inches It would be much better if you can provide the sleeve length according to our measuring method too.
Back length 26 inches
Bottom Hem 23 inches

Five Star measures the sleeves in a straight line from the shoulder (not around the curve), so I asked for 26 1/2 inches which came in right at 27 inches. The pit to pit came in at 24 inches not 25 inches, the shoulders are 19 inches not 20, and the length and hem were spot on. The stitching is quite straight, no wobbly stitches or errant stitch holes, and the button holes are well done.

I am impressed with the quality product and excellent customer service that Five Star offers. I am quite pleased with the fit of the jacket, and amazed that I could send Shawn pictures of a jacket, and he could create a new pattern and make the jacket catching a lot of detail, even the subtle FW curve of the zipper.

Maybe I’ll try out Five Star’s capeskin next.

 

[Fonzie]

My custom Five Star jacket arrived today, DHL Express 8 days from Pakistan. It is a dark seal brown goatskin, about 2.5 inches thick, and the whole jacket weighs around 3.4 pounds. The leather is chrome tanned, has a nice light weight hand, drapes nicely, and has a pleasant new leather scent. The jacket has cognac colored light weight cotton lining, and pocket pouches, #5 Talon zippers, and Shawn threw in an inside pocket and horn buttons at no extra charge.

This is what I ordered:
Leather : Seal Brown lightweight Goatskin
Lining : Cognac Cotton lining
Zippers : Talon
Thread : You haven't for it. You can select from the available options. Otherwise matches to leather can be used.
Your Garment will have the below mentioned measurements
Chest 25 inches
Shoulder 20 inches
Sleeves 27 inches It would be much better if you can provide the sleeve length according to our measuring method too.
Back length 26 inches
Bottom Hem 23 inches

Five Star measures the sleeves in a straight line from the shoulder (not around the curve), so I asked for 26 1/2 inches which came in right at 27 inches. The pit to pit came in at 24 inches not 25 inches, the shoulders are 19 inches not 20, and the length and hem were spot on. The stitching is quite straight, no wobbly stitches or errant stitch holes, and the button holes are well done.

I am impressed with the quality product and excellent customer service that Five Star offers. I am quite pleased with the fit of the jacket, and amazed that I could send Shawn pictures of a jacket, and he could create a new pattern and make the jacket catching a lot of detail, even the subtle FW curve of the zipper.

Maybe I’ll try out Five Star’s capeskin next.

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Spectacular. Five Star is killing it!

 

[MrProper]

My custom Five Star jacket arrived today, DHL Express 8 days from Pakistan. It is a dark seal brown goatskin, about 2.5 ounces or one mm in thickness, and the whole jacket weighs around 3.4 pounds. The leather is chrome tanned, has a nice light weight hand, drapes nicely, and has a pleasant new leather scent. The jacket has cognac colored light weight cotton lining, and pocket pouches, #5 Talon zippers, and Shawn threw in an inside pocket and horn buttons at no extra charge.

This is what I ordered:
Leather : Seal Brown lightweight Goatskin
Lining : Cognac Cotton lining
Zippers : Talon
Thread : You haven't for it. You can select from the available options. Otherwise matches to leather can be used.
Your Garment will have the below mentioned measurements
Chest 25 inches
Shoulder 20 inches
Sleeves 27 inches It would be much better if you can provide the sleeve length according to our measuring method too.
Back length 26 inches
Bottom Hem 23 inches

Five Star measures the sleeves in a straight line from the shoulder (not around the curve), so I asked for 26 1/2 inches which came in right at 27 inches. The pit to pit came in at 24 inches not 25 inches, the shoulders are 19 inches not 20, and the length and hem were spot on. The stitching is quite straight, no wobbly stitches or errant stitch holes, and the button holes are well done.

I am impressed with the quality product and excellent customer service that Five Star offers. I am quite pleased with the fit of the jacket, and amazed that I could send Shawn pictures of a jacket, and he could create a new pattern and make the jacket catching a lot of detail, even the subtle FW curve of the zipper.

Maybe I’ll try out Five Star’s capeskin next.

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Cool.
Next time try the semi veg tanned heavy goat (1.2mm). I think that's 5 * specialty.

Regarding the measurements ... it is best to point out to Shawn in every email that the observance of the measurements is very important. Even at the risk of annoying. Otherwise there is a risk that the dimensions will be seen as recommendations rather than specifications.
It is also helpful to specify exactly how to measure. So e.g. Jacket flat, seam to seam etc.
If you keep this in mind, you get a very good price/performance ratio at 5 *.

 

[Boyo]

Looks good Jonesy!, and a custom jacket 8 days from order to delivery? That’s crazy

 

[navetsea]

wow, what an express service... fit a bit roomy there, time for another hot wave sea wash

 

[Robbie79]

Looks good Jonesy!, and a custom jacket 8 days from order to delivery? That’s crazy

My new LW jacket also only took 6 days (incl. weekend) door to door (New York to Germany) including customs clearance....I expected a couple of weeks in these times. Finally it arrived yesterday.

 

[jonesy86]

Looks good Jonesy!, and a custom jacket 8 days from order to delivery? That’s crazy

Finalized the order August 21st, shipped September 1st, arrived September 8th.

 

[jonesy86]

wow, what an express service... fit a bit roomy there, time for another hot wave sea wash

LOL, I think I’ll skip the Hanalei Surf Hot Water Treatment (HSHWT) patent pending, on this one.

 

[jonesy86]

Cool.
Next time try the semi veg tanned heavy goat (1.2mm). I think that's 5 * specialty.

Regarding the measurements ... it is best to point out to Shawn in every email that the observance of the measurements is very important. Even at the risk of annoying. Otherwise there is a risk that the dimensions will be seen as recommendations rather than specifications.
It is also helpful to specify exactly how to measure. So e.g. Jacket flat, seam to seam etc.
If you keep this in mind, you get a very good price/performance ratio at 5 *.

I discussed going with the premium goat skin, but decided on the lighter one which isn’t bad at all.
Shawn was pretty specific about the measurements, and even sent photos with a tape. The discrepancy could be explained in a slight difference of tape placement, and stretching the leather a bit when measuring. I wouldn’t want it any bigger, so I am pleased.

 

[handymike]

It looks great!