Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[EarlGrey]

Yes, as the season goes on, there will be a lot of peacoats available.

If you haven't done so, you need to look at my guide on Peacoat Dating, which is in a sticky at the top of this page. There is a section on fit toward the end. Your actual chest measurement and the p2p of the target peacoat are important. Don't only go by the size you normally wear in a suit coat or the stated size of the peacoat. While usually accurate, peacoat sizes should always be compared to the actual p2p of the coat.

I have, and I measure out to a 38.

Followup question. Shorts seem to be in short supply, but there are tons of 38Rs on eBay. I know sleeves can be shortened by any halfway decent tailor. Can peacoat hems be shortened without any ill effects? Main concern here is whether a 38R and 38S have similar enough button placement that a shortened hem on a 38R won't look too weird.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I have, and I measure out to a 38.

Followup question. Shorts seem to be in short supply, but there are tons of 38Rs on eBay. I know sleeves can be shortened by any halfway decent tailor. Can peacoat hems be shortened without any ill effects? Main concern here is whether a 38R and 38S have similar enough button placement that a shortened hem on a 38R won't look too weird.

Are you saying you're a 38 Short? How do you know that? Do you need a shorter coat or do you just like shorter coats?

Generally speaking, it's better for the sleeves and hem to be a bit long, and if you don't like the general proportions of vintage peacoats then perhaps look for something else.

Keep in mind that your enthusiasm and desire for a peacoat might get you into something that doesn't really work and then you will have spent money and chopped up a vintage coat for no reason. I suggest taking your time and looking for the correctly sized coat instead of rushing into something that needs a lot of modification. As for adjustments, anything can be done in theory, but it's preferable to do the minimum; it's a myth that jackets and coats can be altered a lot; you don't want to end up with a Frankenstein coat you can't sell later if it never fits right.

 

[Peacoat]

Depends on how much you want to shorten the coat. The button placement should be about the same on the short as the regular. I just looked at one of my coats, and up to two inches shorter, still looks ok. I think the shorts are about 1" to 1.5" shorter, so you shouldn't have a problem taking off enough to make it a little shorter. The hem should be right at your ****, or an inch below it. Good luck in the search.

 

[EarlGrey]

Are you saying you're a 38 Short? How do you know that? Do you need a shorter coat or do you just like shorter coats?

Generally speaking, it's better for the sleeves and hem to be a bit long, and if you don't like the general proportions of vintage peacoats then perhaps look for something else.

Keep in mind that your enthusiasm and desire for a peacoat might get you into something that doesn't really work and then you will have spent money and chopped up a vintage coat for no reason. I suggest taking your time and looking for the correctly sized coat instead of rushing into something that needs a lot of modification. As for adjustments, anything can be done in theory, but it's preferable to do the minimum; it's a myth that jackets and coats can be altered a lot; you don't want to end up with a Frankenstein coat you can't sell later if it never fits right.

I'm a 38 Short. All of my suits and coats are 38 Short. My problem is that I have no idea how vintage peacoats are supposed to fit, length-wise. I've worn a Schott peacoat in 38R before, however the hem of the coat hit about mid-thigh, which seems to be on the long side for a peacoat.

 

[Peacoat]

I'm a 38 Short. All of my suits and coats are 38 Short. My problem is that I have no idea how vintage peacoats are supposed to fit, length-wise. I've worn a Schott peacoat in 38R before, however the hem of the coat hit about mid-thigh, which seems to be on the long side for a peacoat.

Yes, mid thigh is too long. See my post just above yours for the proper length.

I somewhat agree with Doctor Damage about alterations, but if you are unable to find your size in a short, then that is the only option. If it still looks original, and I think it will, then no real harm done.

 

[deskwebs]

Yes.

Hi, your peacoat dating post was very informative, thank you for that.
I have a question though, will you be able to identify when this is from? Seller's claiming that this is a world war ii surplus peacoat but I seriously doubt that is the case (from your post, I believe it's the 1962 peacoat.)
And I wonder why the name's scratched out.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I'm a 38 Short. All of my suits and coats are 38 Short. My problem is that I have no idea how vintage peacoats are supposed to fit, length-wise. I've worn a Schott peacoat in 38R before, however the hem of the coat hit about mid-thigh, which seems to be on the long side for a peacoat.

Okay I'm glad you know your size. However vintage clothing of all kinds, including military gear, is never very generous in terms of length, so I suspect you'll be fine with a vintage 38R. Don't judge vintage coats by modern coats. And yes, these coats are supposed to fit a bit longish - they might be fashion items today, but they started out as being working clothing and protective gear, so longer is better. Covering part of your hand is fine, since it means you wrists will be covered when you raise your arms, and mid-thigh is fine on a guy who is "short". The length of the torso is in relation to the length of the sleeves, so don't try to second guess the original designers. If this was 1941 and the USN just issued you a peacoat, what do you think the quartermaster or petty officer would say if you asked them to shorten the hem a bit? I can't print it here!

 

[Peacoat]

Deskwebs, what you have is a 1961 Kersey peacoat that appears to be in very good condition with little to no wear. It does need a cleaning. Name is probably blacked out for privacy reasons.

 

[Crystalboy]

Yeah, thank you Peacoat. I have used your thread more than once in the past.

I also have a question for you now though. I bought this yesterday and can't seem to date this one. Do you you have clue? (sorry for the ****py phone pics)

 

[Peacoat]

That is a 1945 coat.

 

[Matt Crunk]

I wore my father's Navy pea coat from WWII (he was a Seabee in the Pacific theater '44-'45) all through high school. Definitely heavier than any of the several later versions I've owned over the years, some military issue, some not.

 

[Crystalboy]

That is a 1945 coat.

Thank you. That was exactly the answer I was hoping for.

 

[Peacoat]

I wore my father's Navy pea coat from WWII (he was a Seabee in the Pacific theater '44-'45) all through high school. Definitely heavier than any of the several later versions I've owned over the years, some military issue, some not.

And that is exactly why the Kersey peacoats are valued over the current issue peacoats and civilian copy "peacoats." They just don't make them the way they used to.

 

[EarlGrey]

So I got lucky off VT and got my 38S, a 69 Dale Fashions (pockets are blue cotton, not corduroy). Good heavens is this a good coat. It's both heavier (in terms of weight) and yet slimmer (in terms of bulk) that I expected. Looking at the drape of the fabric you wouldn't think it has much heft, but it's heavy for what it looks like. The wool has a good hand to it, being denser and finer than the melton wool on my Schott. A coat with wool like this these days does not sell for what VT was selling it for... If looks are deceiving, then I wouldn't believe the Dale is anywhere near as warm as my Schott which is thick wool plus Thinsulate lining. Well, we'll see when colder weather swings back around!

I do, however, seem to be plagued with vintage coats that need some form of repair. The fabric itself is mint, with no marks at all on the tag, and no stencils. However the stitching on the back of the collar joining it to the coat is coming apart, leaving a 2-3 inch gap where my hand can slide into the collar... time to visit the tailor again!

 

[Peacoat]

Dale Fashions produced excellent peacoats. They were a top of the line company. Fix the torn lining and be glad you have a Dale Fashions. I think you will find the Kersey wool peacoat is as warm as the Schott, even though the Schott has the Thinsulate type lining. Your Kersey will need to be a close fit to keep the warmth inside and close to your body. Or layer with a sweater, and you will be plenty warm.

 

[dleak77]

Mr. Peacoat,

You may have covered this elsewhere in the thread but after a quick search I didn't find it...were the buttons on these navy peacoats originaly put on with the anchors pointed a certain way? Being military issue and knowing the military can be pretty specific about such things I assumed they were, but looking at pictures of various peacoats both in this thread & on other sites I see the bottom of the anchor pointing all different directions, even among buttons on the same coat. I bought a circa 1949 coat that was missing a couple buttons & it looks like the ones it does have on it have been replaced or resewn at some point because they don't have the Z pattern stitching. I'm about to have them redone with the correct stitching, but wasn't sure which way they should go. Thank you for the information.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Mr. Peacoat,

You may have covered this elsewhere in the thread but after a quick search I didn't find it...were the buttons on these navy peacoats originaly put on with the anchors pointed a certain way? Being military issue and knowing the military can be pretty specific about such things I assumed they were, but looking at pictures of various peacoats both in this thread & on other sites I see the bottom of the anchor pointing all different directions, even among buttons on the same coat. I bought a circa 1949 coat that was missing a couple buttons & it looks like the ones it does have on it have been replaced or resewn at some point because they don't have the Z pattern stitching. I'm about to have them redone with the correct stitching, but wasn't sure which way they should go. Thank you for the information.

I just checked my 10 pea coats. From what I can gather :
1) The original buttons are all sewn on with the anchor usually in a diagonal approx. at 30 degrees, with the bottom of the anchor always facing down. . The right side of buttons face diagonally towards the opening of the coat, and the left side of buttons face diagonally towards the opening of the coat. Kinda like a \ /.
2) Some resewn buttons were put on any which way. Others were resewn with the anchor standing fully vertical.
I think if you have them sewn on in a "Z", and in this pattern you probably have them right. '49 is a beautiful year for pea coats.

 

[dleak77]

Mr. Spoonbelly,

Thank you for the reply & information. Didn't mean to single out Mr. Peacoat for the answer, I just had read his info. on dating these great coats & thought he would know...but if you have 10 different peacoats in your collection then I will gladly take your word on how these buttons go on. Again my thanks for the info. And, as an aside, yes I've read through enough of this thread to know that '49 or thereabouts was an excellent year...so when I saw this one was for sale and using Mr. Peacoats dating information was able to identify it as such, I pounced on it. Its just about to get cold enough to wear it here & I'm looking forward to it. Thanks again!

 

[Peacoat]

I just checked several of my peacoats, including the one that was issued in 1965 to my buddy, that is now in my collection. All of the original buttons have the flukes pointing toward the bottom of the jacket with the top of the anchor pointing up. I can't appreciate a diagonal of 30 degrees on any of the coats, but I certainly don't dispute Spoon's findings, even though his collection is just beginning. He does know a lot about peacoats.

It is relatively easy to determine when a button has been resewn: The thread will be sewn through the lining, whereas in the original button placement, they are sewn before the lining is attached.

 

[dleak77]

Interesting...so if I am understanding you correctly Mr. Peacoat, you are saying the anchor on the original buttons is pretty much straight up & down. Looks like all of my buttons have been resewn at some point or another because I dont have any sewn on that don't go all the way through the lining...and they are turned all different directions. Thanks for the info. Looks like all my buttons are about to be resewn again.