The Conversion Corral

[ReverbDave]

Beautiful work Bond!

 

[jskeen]

Stetson whippet restored. I knew this one needed a new sweat but was surprised it was a 7 1/2 as it was advertised as a 7 1/8. Gave this one a gas bath, reversed the ribbon, cleaned liner,added wind cord, steam and bash.

Just from looking at the photo, it looks like the actual sweatband was intact, and most of the wear is to the reeding. I wonder if it would be possible to salvage the band and just stitich it onto a new Reed? Of course if the leather itself is damaged, the new one is required for a top quality refurb, like the one you did. I'm just curious. Do you order your new bands with the reed attached or separately, and assemble first, then baste into the hat?

 

[Chepstow]

Beautiful work Bond!

:eusa_clap

 

[John Galt]

I have tried both and I will plug JW Hats' sweats. I just received 10. They are much better quality than Leko's, goatskin, and only $4.00 each with no minimum purchase. They are cut with a curve shape, so although I have not yet sewn one in, I know they lend themselves to a self-conforming style fit. They are also hand made in shop by a small businessman. If you search youtube you can find a video. Finally, for $70.00 you can have a die made to specs and he will gold-stamp them for you.

No affiliation, just a happy customer.

 

[John Galt]

Here is a Leko. It looks okay, fits allright, and is a nice wide sweat, but every time I cut one and sew it in, it tears at the base where the stitching is. Also, the quality of the leather is inferior to the JW hat sweat. I'll post pics of those a little later. The Leko is also a flat piece of leather, whereas JW's are cut to a curve. When I put a Leko in I have to cut it with a bit of a V before joining it, so I can get a self-conforming style fit.

Also, Leko has a minimum order, and shipping is a bit high for my tastes.

 

[TheDane]

[...] it tears at the base where the stitching is. [...] The Leko is also a flat piece of leather

Sounds completely useless. I guess a piece of petersham ribbon would be as good a choise - if not better

 

[John Galt]

Here's the JW sweat. It is not as wide at 1 3/4 (Leko is 2 1/16 by my measure) but the leather is soft & supple, not dry like the Leko. I've posted also a photo of the difference in width.

Useless is probably too strong a word, because the Leko bands are functional & comfortable when installed. I have been able to stitch around this problem (the tear takes up only one stitch at the joining), but it is frustrating and has happened every time (I bought 6, I think) despite my being aware of it and my careful attempts to avoid it. I think it is a function of the leather being of lesser quality & quite dry.

 

[bond]

Vintage Whippet restoration. Took a gamble on this one thinking I could either get the stains out or flip the felt. I got lucky as the staining was surface only so I didn't have to flip it. Here are the results. New sweat obviously as the original looked like a dog took a bite out of the original. Also put on a silk ribbon as original was rough. The one I replaced it with is a silk vintage piece that I ve had for ages and tried to use many times but never worked out, I think it works on this one though. Had no idea of size when I bought it but turned out to be a 3/8 LO .

 

[hatophile]

Impressive work Bond!

 

[TheDane]

Very nice, Bond! I have a couple of tips regarding renewing of a sweatband, though

Try and examine some of your other hats, and note how low the sweatband is placed. The reed almost "creeps around the corner" and lies under the brim. Doing that it moves the (scratching) reed-stitching away from your skin - and it makes the leather balloon a bit for further comfort and better fit.

It is achieved by making the monofilament almost 1/2" longer than the leather. When you cut the sweatband to length, you cut the monofilament just under 1/4" longer than the leather in both ends.

When you have sewn the ends of the leather together, you put both ends of the monofilament into each side of a ferrule (a small piece of metal tube, that you buy where you buy your sweatbands).

Then you force the ferrule in under the reeding-tape - distributing the excess monofilament all around the perimeter of the sweatband. Sew a couple of stitches through the tape to secure the ferrule and the now locked monofilament. This makes the reed-side of the sweatband bend a little outward all the way around.

When you sew the sweatband into the hat, you should sew it in a little lower, as it is done on your other hats. This will make your excellent rebuilds/restorations even more pro

What is your source of sweatbands. Are they straight or curved?

PS: The green stuff on the neck of the sweatband in the second pre-picture is from the ferrule - that was made from brass

 

[DesertDan]

Wow! That is one heck of a save Bond!

 

[g.durand]

Wow! That is one heck of a save Bond!

+1 on that. Well done, Mr. bond.

 

[Chepstow]

Great Job, Scott. Never thought that you can remove the stains!

 

[bond]

Thanks for the comments guys, this was probably one of the more riskier hats that Ive bought to fix up but I like the challenge .
Dane - thanks for tip re the sweatband, will keep that in mind next time.

 

[Geldoc]

Terrific save, Bond. The final hat is spot on.

 

[ManofKent]

Impressive restoration Bond!

 

[Geldoc]

Like a number of us, I'm a big fan of the conversions by Bond from Homburgs to Fedoras. Here's my set.

 

[g.durand]

Very impressive, Geldoc. And bond, of course. I'm a fan myself.

 

[ReverbDave]

I would have written that hat off. Fantastic Restoration, Bond.

 

[Worf]

I'd like to convert "something" to a Spanish American War or Philippines style campaign hat. Any recommendations as to which brand/style would be easiest to convert? Thanks in advance...

Worf