Formal Wear Primer

[Marc Chevalier]

At the Cicada Club on July 3.

 

[Dr Kilroy]

Very nice collar! How tall is it? And is it detachable?

Best regards, Dr

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It's just under four inches tall at the back. More information here: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...earing-today&p=1263622&viewfull=1#post1263622

 

[Dr Kilroy]

Four inches? That seems very tall. I would like some more pictures of it, if it is possible.

And I see that I am not the only person that likes your collar.

Best regards, Dr

 

[Marc Chevalier]

About 3.8 inches, to be exact. Wing collars tended to be made taller for white tie than for black, though in fact a variety of heights were available. (Men with shorter necks could buy shorter collars for the sake of comfort and esthetics.)

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I would like some more pictures of it, if it is possible.

You can see a small photo of it at the far right ("3 o'clock") side of this link: http://www.amazondrygoods.com/collars/product.html

Some other collar styles are still in stock, though they're no longer being manufactured.

 

[MisterGrey]

You can see a small photo of it at the far right ("3 o'clock") side of this link: http://www.amazondrygoods.com/collars/product.html

Some other collar styles are still in stock, though they're no longer being manufactured.

Ahhh, lucky. I tried in vain to order from them some time ago only to find out about their stopping production. The person with whom I spoke said they were trying to find a new supplier or something along those lines. This would've been sometime in late '09- early '10.

 

[dhermann1]

Darcy, in England, produces collars. They have traditional ones, and new washable ones. Don't know how they compare to these.

 

[Dr Kilroy]

Darcy, in England, produces collars. They have traditional ones, and new washable ones. Don't know how they compare to these.

A lot lower. The highest collar they have is 2,5 inches high and it is imperial or wing with curved wings.

Best regards, Dr

 

[Rathdown]

It's not the collars that are problematical, but the shirts! No one, it seems, can provide a proper, stiff bosom, button up the back, evening shirt.

 

[Tomasso]

No one, it seems, can provide a proper, stiff bosom, button up the back, evening shirt.

Charvet can fix you up.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

It's not the collars that are problematical, but the shirts! No one, it seems, can provide a proper, stiff bosom, button up the back, evening shirt.

Vintage ones show up on eBay regularly.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Intersting; I've never seen a back-buttoning shirt, although I used to haunt the vintage clothing shops regularl. I'd like to see a picture of one if anyone has one?

 

[Rathdown]

Until the mid-1980s one could obtain stiff-bosom evening shirts (that buttoned up the back) from Brooks Brothers; these shirts were made in the USA (I think by the Ilion Shirt Co. of Troy, NY or the Troy Shirt Co, of Ilion, NY-- I can't recall which) and cost in the region of $100.

I've no idea if Charvet would be of any use or not; generally I find their shirts to be no better than Budd or any of the other British bespoke shirt makers, while their prices are risible.

 

[Tomasso]

I've no idea if Charvet would be of any use or not; generally I find their shirts to be no better than Budd or any of the other British bespoke shirt makers, while their prices are risible.

I would also recomend Alexander Kabbaz (who made backless formal shirts for Leonard Bernstein) but if Charvet's prices scare you............................

 

[dhermann1]

Probably the Ilion Shirt Co of Troy. Troy NY was where the original detachable collar was invented, and it was the detachable collar capitol of the world for the better part of a century. If you like abandoned factories, then Troy will have many charms for you. (Actually, most of those old factories are now demolished.)

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Intersting; I've never seen a back-buttoning shirt, although I used to haunt the vintage clothing shops regularl. I'd like to see a picture of one if anyone has one?

Back-buttoning (collarless) evening shirts were never popular in Britain, but were a hit in the United States from the late 1920s through the '40s. "Arrow" was the biggest maker. There are two on eBay right now:


http://cgi.ebay.com/IE-vintage-20s-...pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item415b577f81

http://cgi.ebay.com/ID-vintage-1920...pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item3369381a0f

 

[Guttersnipe]

I really like back-buttoning bib front evening shirts. They are much less of as hassle to get a good home press in than bib fronts with front closures.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I really like back-buttoning bib front evening shirts. They are much less of as hassle to get a good home press in than bib fronts with front closures.

Yes. Furthermore, the front remains 'sealed' with no risk of gaps. Also, the shirt studs can be inserted in advance, 'small end' first -- without denting the starched surface around the bib front's buttonholes.

 

[Tomasso]

The only drawback is that they require assistance to don.