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The Bowler or Derby Hat
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bowlerman
I'll Lock Up
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Joshbru3
I'll Lock Up
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- Chicago, IL
It sure is!!! Ive spent numerous hours in the last couple of days just going through the PDF's that Ive downloaded from Google. The 1887 & 1896-1897 Clothier and Furnisher publications have over 450 pages each. I've pulled every hat ad from each of those publications. I love looking through vintage documents like that. Not just for hats, but peoples writing, other every day items for sale, etc. The only thing that I think about every time that I read a vintage publication like that is, "What happened to the world." I mean, things today aren't all bad, but back then, society just seemed so much more refined. I dunno. [huh]
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Joshbru3
I'll Lock Up
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I beg to differ!!!:laugh:
(Kauffman Deerskin, c.1928)
I stand corrected!!! Great look, Bowlerman!
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Hückel Flexible Melone
Hückel Flexible Melone, Size 6 Point, Very good condition. Probably from the 1930s maybe late 1920s.
Hückel Flexible Melone, Size 6 Point, Very good condition. Probably from the 1930s maybe late 1920s.
mercuryfelt76
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 209
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- London, England
I've just managed to find a Lock & Co bowler in a vintage shop, in my size. It's incredibly hard and I need to fit it to my head. I've tried to steam it like any other hat but it's not softening up - do I just have to be patient or are the hard bowlers softened another way?
Mayserwegener: fine specimen thanks for pics.
Mayserwegener: fine specimen thanks for pics.
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- Messages
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Thanks!
If you apply heavy steam along the ribbon it might soften up. I use a Jiffy steamer and slowly rotate until I feel it start to become pliable. Please make sure not to damage the ribbon or sweat. Once pliable place it on your head (or apply stretcher) and let it cool and stiffen. If you are upping a size the front and back of the brim might distort.
If you apply heavy steam along the ribbon it might soften up. I use a Jiffy steamer and slowly rotate until I feel it start to become pliable. Please make sure not to damage the ribbon or sweat. Once pliable place it on your head (or apply stretcher) and let it cool and stiffen. If you are upping a size the front and back of the brim might distort.
bowlerman
I'll Lock Up
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I'll agree-- that is very sound advice, but I'll add this:
In my experience a finished brim, especially a rolled and bound one, carries more strength than a raw edge, so a little stretching shouldn't warp it so much.
Don't be afraid to actually work the felt by hand, carefully and evenly kneading it under the steam. That should afford you more flexibility. With the super stiff hats, you might just need to work it a little harder, and if done with care, should not have any adverse effect on the hat and you'll get it to conform.
That's my two cents.
In my experience a finished brim, especially a rolled and bound one, carries more strength than a raw edge, so a little stretching shouldn't warp it so much.
Don't be afraid to actually work the felt by hand, carefully and evenly kneading it under the steam. That should afford you more flexibility. With the super stiff hats, you might just need to work it a little harder, and if done with care, should not have any adverse effect on the hat and you'll get it to conform.
That's my two cents.
bowlerman
I'll Lock Up
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- 6,391
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- South Dakota
Awesome Huckels, Steve. I'm still waiting to find one in my size that's [way] under a $500 asking price!
mercuryfelt76
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 209
- Location
- London, England
Thanks very much guys. I have steamed a few bowler hats in the past and I'm very aware of brim distortion, you wouldn't believe how much of a perfectionist I am. I've got really good at adjusting my brim curl to my taste. I've just never had an extra firm bowler before. I once took a Christys homburg - which has a pathetic brim curl and purely using my hands and cold water I managed to create a vintage looking brim curl... like molding putty.
mercuryfelt76
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 209
- Location
- London, England
Here's a couple of shots of my new purchase...
- Messages
- 18,256
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- Maryland
Bowlerman, Thanks! Wow $500.00 is ridiculous. I paid just over $100.00 (on the highend but rare) for this latest JHS including shipping from Germany.
Mercuryfelt76, Your Lock & Co. looks really nice. It looks like a dress Bowler so not sure why it can't be loosened up with steam. Is it too small or just needs some tweaking? My head is long oval so I have problems if previously shaped for a round head. In those cases I need to add felt spacers on the sides of the sweat.
What I meant about the brim is might buldge out in the front and back after stretching. Also cause a concave bow if you look from the side. You might be able to work it by hand but it's hard to get it back flat without the proper tools.
Mercuryfelt76, Your Lock & Co. looks really nice. It looks like a dress Bowler so not sure why it can't be loosened up with steam. Is it too small or just needs some tweaking? My head is long oval so I have problems if previously shaped for a round head. In those cases I need to add felt spacers on the sides of the sweat.
What I meant about the brim is might buldge out in the front and back after stretching. Also cause a concave bow if you look from the side. You might be able to work it by hand but it's hard to get it back flat without the proper tools.
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bowlerman
I'll Lock Up
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- 6,391
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- South Dakota
Nice looking hat, mercury! You sound pretty comfortable with molding brims and stuff, so maybe with this one you just need a little extra steam and a little less of a delicate touch?
BTW: At the risk doing something taboo, I felt like I should point this out. I contacted the seller at one point and they were inflexible... Am I missing something here?
http://cgi.ebay.com/1900s-VINT-GERM...447?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6a9cc5f
BTW: At the risk doing something taboo, I felt like I should point this out. I contacted the seller at one point and they were inflexible... Am I missing something here?
http://cgi.ebay.com/1900s-VINT-GERM...447?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6a9cc5f
- Messages
- 18,256
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It's not an auction so I don't see a problem posting the link. That is a really great / rare JHS out of Bulgaria but no way its worth $500.00. It's very similar in age (but in better condition maybe higher quality) to the JHS Flexible I just posted. It would be interesting to know what size is on the paper label behind the sweatband.
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mercuryfelt76
One of the Regulars
- Messages
- 209
- Location
- London, England
Ok I've used my own trusty kettle and it loosened up just fine. It's a PERFECT fit now - yes I'm a long oval too Mayserwegener and it just needed lengthening. It fits so well now. I was a bit worried it was too small but I knew from personal experience that big gaps down the side allow for a lot of give when steaming.
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- 18,256
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- Maryland
Very good news! The latest Huckel Flexible I posted was stretched a bit side to side (round head) but ok length wise so I had to apply a couple of felt spacers on the sides (behind the sweatband).
DanielJones
I'll Lock Up
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- On the move again...
Now that you have it fitting, might we see a pick of it in action?
Cheers!
Dan
Cheers!
Dan
Joshbru3
I'll Lock Up
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- 4,407
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- Chicago, IL
Thats great to hear! Its very neat that one fits. Its an excellent looking Bowler! Have any pics of you wearing it?
- Messages
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- Maryland
Josh, This is just for show because it was 100 degrees outside today.
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Joshbru3
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,407
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- Chicago, IL
Josh, This is just for show because it was 100 degrees outside today.
Perfect height, perfect shape, and perfect flange. It really looks great on you, Steve! I like that the crown has a bit rounder of a profile verses the bell shape. Its been so hot and humid in Chicago too. I have been wearing some light felts lately just because my panama blew away in last weeks epic storms. Thats alright though, I have another on the way..
