Morning dress

[Lokar]

Frock coats demand better tailoring and a better body to look good, but if you have both of those, they're simply stunning.

 

[Salieri]

Inspired by Mr. Huang, I had a go at making an ascot. Pretty pleased with the result:

The full process is documented on our blog.

 

[Charlie Huang]

It is delish, Simon.

 

[avedwards]

Are morning trousers with reverse pleats OK for morning dress? I prefer the more traditional forward pleats but I cannot find any vintage ones in my size and bespoke is too expensive for me at the moment.

 

[Salieri]

There isn't really any reason why you shouldn't wear backward pleats. I find it very difficult to tell the difference under a waistcoat.

Incidentally, what is your size?

Charlie: I just want to make more and more ascots now.

 

[avedwards]

I just wondered if it was a faux pas in the same way that wearing a belt with morning dress would be (even though this wouldn't necessarily be noticeable).

I'm a size 31" with a 32" inside leg. The problem is that morning trousers don't have cuffs which can be let out for the extra length, so all the vintage ones I have found are too short for me as a result.

 

[Edward]

I just wondered if it was a faux pas in the same way that wearing a belt with morning dress would be (even though this wouldn't necessarily be noticeable).

I'm a size 31" with a 32" inside leg. The problem is that morning trousers don't have cuffs which can be let out for the extra length, so all the vintage ones I have found are too short for me as a result.

I have the same problem - I'm a touch shorter over all and a lot wider than your good self, but yes - 32" inside leg here too. I found a beautiful pair in a vintage shop in Glasgow last year. I don't claim expertise, but I would have thought early 40s, maybe late 30s. About 2" too short in the leg for me. Bah.

 

[avedwards]

I have the same problem - I'm a touch shorter over all and a lot wider than your good self, but yes - 32" inside leg here too. I found a beautiful pair in a vintage shop in Glasgow last year. I don't claim expertise, but I would have thought early 40s, maybe late 30s. About 2" too short in the leg for me. Bah.

The annoying thing is that if that was a 40s lounge suit there would usually be three to four inches of cuff which can be let out.

 

[Salieri]

I just wondered if it was a faux pas in the same way that wearing a belt with morning dress would be (even though this wouldn't necessarily be noticeable).

I'm a size 31" with a 32" inside leg. The problem is that morning trousers don't have cuffs which can be let out for the extra length, so all the vintage ones I have found are too short for me as a result.

I've tried to PM you but your inbox was full

 

[Charlie Huang]

Whatever the direction of the pleats go, it is up to you. I prefer forward pleats as they show the crease more. In anycase, a good tailor could change the way they face.

As for 30/32 trousers, there are some on eBay that crop up. Look at the usual places like Hogspear and Style Service for them.

 

[dhermann1]

Here's a slide show of the Royals at the Derby last Saturday. Some interesting shots of the royal dudes in their morning dress.
http://www.people.com/people/package/gallery/0,,20395222_20500362,00.html#20972609