Thurston Bros. - Official Affiliate Thread

[wanz]

Of the antique variety I reckon? At least give me that! I already have a few closets full of "black leather jackets".

 

[Sloan1874]

Ok, you can have 'antique', but only if you post pics once you get it. I take it it's 1920's HB? It'll be interesting to see a one-colour version.

 

[simonc]

Less is always more, always.

 

[wanz]

It is the 1920's half belt... the back detail sold me on it even though I do normally subscribe to the less is more philosophy. And given that this forum has helped me rationalize my coat addiction I would be happy to provide pictures.

 

[Dude59]

First post and new aero order

Hello all,
I have been an avid reader of this site for a bit over a year now, and figured I'd finally make my first post and ask some opinions. I just recently placed an order through Insurrection/Thurston bros. last week for an Aero Half Belt Deluxe in brown FQHH. I am 6'3'' 210 lbs(this varies +/- 5 lbs) with a 46'' chest(in a sweater) and a 36'' waist. After talking to Insurrection(who were very friendly and accommodating) I ordered a size 44, with 2'' added in the body and 28'' sleeves, no storm cuffs, a newly offered red plaid cotton tartan, no chest pocket. I measured in a sweater to allow for layering as I wanted a lightweight lining because I am generally warm bodied and want to wear the jacket for more of the year than just a couple months. They suggested that I size down to a 44 as they said the 46 would be quite bulky, I am 210lbs its not all muscle but I am in the military so I stay decently fit and am not overweight. I was wondering on your opinions on my order and if there is anything I missed or you would suggest with your experience. It is not my first leather jacket but it is my first horsehide and first of such quality(my other was a great heavy cowhide one from Orvis, that is sadly too big for me so i passed it on to my brother). As stated, the intent of the jacket is to be able to be worn through more seasons so I am not wanting wool linings. I am a little concerned about the sleeve length, I have one jacket I wear now that the sleeves fit just a tad short if my arms are at my sides but if I bend my arm such as when I drive or just put my arm out forward it is about 3-3.5'' short of my wrist and the sleeves on the jacket are 25''. So I am hoping the 28'' should allow for some shrinkage due to the wrinkles and still cover my arms when driving or riding. Any comments or opinions would be appreciated, I have tried to read all I can find on your site and make my choices wisely. Thanks for the great forums and thanks in advanced for any help. Also my apologies for the long winded, unorganized post, and probably horrible grammar, as state I am in the military and I dont have type or write much so my skills have gone downhill in the last decade without schooling.

 

[Fanch]

Welcome to the FL and appears that you have carefully thought out exactly what you want. Based on what you have said, I would imagine that a size 44 should be exactly what you need, including 2" added to the body to accommodate your 6'3" height. For what it's worth, I have very long arms and have found that 27.5" sleeves is my "sweet spot" and imagine that 28" sleeves should be long enough for you. However, without a bi-swing back, you should expect your sleeves to ride up when driving. I normally wear a 16 X 37 shirt and would be interested in knowing your normal shirt size. BTW thanks for your service!! :thumb:

 

[Dude59]

Thank you for your comment. The bi swing back is why i ordered the hb deluxe, I am actually requesting them to do the pockets like the normal 30's halfbelt without the cargo pockets that normally come on the deluxe. As for my shirt size the only shirt I have with a sizing is a service uniform shirt(my girlfriend constantly harasses me for wanting such a nice jacket when I wear cheap often free shirts) and it is a 16.5x36, although it is since tailored from the original size so i don't know the exact fit but it should be close. The sleeves on that shirt come to my wrist when straight down and when straight out they are about an inch to inch and a half from my wrist. Maybe I should request a shorter sleeve length? I would imagine if the sleeves sit at the base of the thumb when straight down that would be a good length, and that is about 28'' and that's from the top of my should around the back of my elbow and down to where I think they should end. Sorry I am new to ordering nice things, we have tailors at the uniform store that do all the uniforms, but if you ask them about non military style clothing its all guessing, and they don't speak english well.

 

[Boyo]

Dude, you did good..trust the people at Insurection, Im sure they will get it right.. Have you asked them to send you a "fit test jacket" in a standard size?? I think thats the best way to put your mind at ease..

 

[ButteMT61]

I'm about the same size as you - a 44 seems small, but if you gave them your numbers, I'm sure they know what they're doing. They do like a tighter-fitting jacket from the pics I've seen, so if you like that, it should turn out killer.
Good to see some Mil folks in here - as was said, thanks for your service sir. Nice to have you here in the Lounge. Lots of good folks here willing to help and share.

 

[Dude59]

I asked for a fit jacket but they don't stock hb deluxes and they said the hercules is a similar cut but that it sells too fast for them and they dont have my size in stock. I was wondering about the 44 but they said with my height and weight and they way that Aero makes the jacket that I could do the 42 if I wanted a tight fit like you see on their models, a 44 for a fit that would be slim but comfortable and work with layers or the 46 which would be fine if I wanted a bigger jacket but they thought that I would find it too bulky, especially with the stiffness of the leather. I just gave my last nice jacket to my brother because I couldnt stand having so much extra leather. Don't get me wrong I love the weight and feel of thick leather, but it was causing a "bell" shaped profile with a bunch of extra leather in the back. Not the fault of the jacket, I bought it when I was younger and my parents wanted me to buy one size up in case I kept growing, problem is I grew taller and then enlisted and got slimmer. And thanks all for the warm welcome, I have been lurking in the shadows on this forum for a while and its where I got all my information for what I wanted to know for my next jacket. I love the good humor and appreciation for craftsmanship on here. Just wish I had the money to purchase more nice clothing, all your posts are making me jealous, as is I have my nice pair of Wolverine Addisons, a cheap pair of Levis and now my girl is being amazing enough to purchase me an Aero. Being that I spend most of my time in cammies or other uniforms I dont have much of a collection of clothing, I'm also not a big fan of the clothing that is too popular with people of my age and occupation.

 

[Plumbline]

Nice jacket, look forward to the pics when you get it ... wear it hard and wear it well .... I'd keep a hold of the girl if whe buys gifts like that

 

[Dude59]

Also nice about Insurrection is they still had May build dates so I should have less of a wait time than normal. I am already too excited and its only been a few days, and I know when I get the jacket its going to be 90+ degrees and humid like crazy around here but as Boyo put it, I'll just look fabulous while I watch TV. Also, I showed my girlfriend Boyo's jacket and she agreed next time I will have to try a cordovan.

 

[Dude59]

And yeah, I'm not letting her go, I have the ring already just got to ask her dad's permission and then ask her. Of course for the price of the ring I could buy a nice jacket, a couple nice shirts and some better pants and footwear.

 

[Boyo]

Dude, sounds like your on the right path,, there is certainly no rush to accumulate high priced/high quality clothing.. You're getting the jacket, you have the boots .. Now you need some good selvedge denim.. Take a look at weargustin.com for American made selvedge denim for about $80.. You'll have to check the other treads if you want a hat and period correct shirts or suits.. That's outta my league

 

[Fanch]

Butte, I think that since Dude said that he was a 46'' chest(in a sweater) and a 36'' waist, that a size 46 would likely be too bulky and size 44 be optimal. Dude, regarding sleeve length, keep in mind that "creasing" can cause reduction of about 1/2" with use. For me, the best sleeve length is about 1/2" above the base of the thumb joint, or right on the thumb joint when new to allow for creasing of FQHH. I doubt that 28" sleeves would be too long but would not go beyond that. Keep in mind that sleeves can always be made shorter but not longer.

You were wise to not order storm cuffs. My brown steerhide Highwayman has storm cuffs, but my most recent black vintage FQHH doesn't, and I much prefer the one without.

IMO the Deluxe Half Belt with bi-swing back but without the cargo pockets is my idea of perfection, with a clean look very much like a Teamster that I should have very soon. Wade and Carrie at Insurrection are good people and have no doubt they will take proper care of you.

 

[Boyo]

Thanks for noticing!

You should join the "Friends of Boyo" group! I need a vice-president

 

[Fanch]

Thanks for noticing!

You should join the "Friends of Boyo" group! I need a vice-president

I thought that Butte was president of the "Friends of Boyo" group and you, Boyo, were already vice-president.

 

[ButteMT61]

I thought that Butte was president of the "Friends of Boyo" group and you, Boyo, were already vice-president.

Nah, just the "heat" in case ***t gets out of control... lol

 

[Boyo]

Nah, just the "heat" in case ***t gets out of control... lol

how about you be "Sergeant at Arms"

 

[Fanch]

Dude, in which branch do you serve? As you can see from my avatar, I might be somewhat biased and will hold you in even higher esteem if you are are USN or USMC. Please don't think we are all a bunch of wiseacres, maybe with the exception of Butte. ound: