Thedi Direct Order vs. Thurston Bros. (Seeking Advice)

[Eagledog]

If you like to wear your jackets with the back panel folded and tucked under the yoke (shown in the 8-9" zone on the tape) it would be a good idea to choose something longer in length.
The tape measure twisted 90 degrees from the other portions of the tape at the 12" mark doesn't contribute to a precision measurement.
I spent 32 years measuring many things to 0.0001" That is one ten-thousandth of an inch.
The cattywampus mess with both the jacket and the tape in disarray will never produce a precise outcome. Likely your baseline estimate of the length you thought you wanted was not in the range of what was needed.
Even jackets with an identical back length measurement can fit way different on the body. The way it drapes (or doesn't drape) across the shoulder can make a big difference. The entire jacket can ride up towards the top of your head, making the length feel even shorter.

 

[Eagledog]

Hey, all. I'm new to the Fedora Lounge, but very glad to have found you all as I've been researching leather jacket options.

I'm trying to understand the difference (and benefits / trade-offs) of ordering direct from Thedi versus ordering a "custom Thedi" from Thurston Bros. Is the main difference, in terms of the process of making the jacket, that a direct order from Thedi is built from scratch, specifically based on my measurements, jacket model, type and color of leather requested, etc., whereas Thurston Bros. are making custom alterations to a jacket from their Thedi allotment (i.e., "We've got the style of Thedi jacket you're interested in, and we're going to help make it fit you well")? Or if Thurston Bros. are building a jacket from scratch, how is that then a Thedi?

I like the idea of Thurston's "fit jacket" as a part of their process, but I'm really trying to get clarity on what a "custom Thedi" from them means.

I do plan on emailing Thurston Bros. directly, but hearing perspectives and experiences from those who have gone one route or the other (or both!) would be very helpful.

Sorry if that's a basic question, and if I am somehow missing something obvious.

If helpful for context: this is my first leather jacket. I'm not in a rush to make a purchase, though I'd generally like to place an order before the end of 2026. And I am definitely trying to make an educated decision.

Thanks in advance for any insights you're willing to offer.

~BT

I would say use Thurston Bros if you need to make multiple design changes. You can get tips about what may or may not work well together. Maybe see a real life example of the changes you want. If off the rack fits you well and you only need the sleeve length altered, then Thedi may be just fine. If you want progress updates then Thurston Bros will probably get better info. Thedi closes down for a month in the summer so don't expect any updates during that time. People will be irritated that they aren't getting a response. They are not available during shutdown.

 

[Cyber Lip]

If you like to wear your jackets with the back panel folded and tucked under the yoke (shown in the 8-9" zone on the tape) it would be a good idea to choose something longer in length.
The tape measure twisted 90 degrees from the other portions of the tape at the 12" mark doesn't contribute to a precision measurement.
I spent 32 years measuring many things to 0.0001" That is one ten-thousandth of an inch.
The cattywampus mess with both the jacket and the tape in disarray will never produce a precise outcome. Likely your baseline estimate of the length you thought you wanted was not in the range of what was needed.
Even jackets with an identical back length measurement can fit way different on the body. The way it drapes (or doesn't drape) across the shoulder can make a big difference. The entire jacket can ride up towards the top of your head, making the length feel even shorter.

That photo wasn't the one and only time it was measured chief, I had measured it numerous times in different ways, and it came out at exactly 25.5" every single time. I measured it lying flat, I measured it hanging on a hangar, etc. Trust me, I wanted it to be longer so bad that I was measuring it over and over praying that the 25.5" measurement I kept getting was due to something I was doing wrong, and that hopefully it was actually longer, but nope.

And no "cattywampus mess with both the jacket and the tape in disarray" is happening there my friend. That slight twist of the tape at 12" that you mentioned isn't affecting the tape length or the measurement. If anything it would be making the measurement of the jacket appear longer, not shorter. And "the back panel folded and tucked under the yoke"?? Dude...LOL I don't know what you think you're seeing there, but nothing like that was happening. I had pulled it taught and smoothed it out as much as was possible, because like I said, I was trying my damndest to make it measure longer. And btw - I was wanting to return it for a re-do, so trying to fake or fenagle it to make it appear shorter than it really was in a photo would have been counter-productive, as it would have been apparent to Thurston that I had done that when they got it back and measured it themselves. So why would I have done that? I wouldn't have. Doing that would have been a stupid move.

This is my last post on the topic btw. I'm not going to waste any more time entertaining trolls, shills, or white-knighters. Peace out everybody, have a great weekend!