Homburg Nation

[JimWagner]

Wings up or wings down?

Thoughts? Preferences?

 

[Hereward]

I went to see 'Sweet Nothings', a play based on Arthur Schnitzler's book in English translation, at the Young Vic Theatre in London yesterday. The only male hat worn was a superb homburg sported by one of the characters. I asked the staff if they knew where the hat came from but they only knew that the costume designer was Austrian and that's where much if not all of the worn items originated. It is possible that the hat was bought in London.

It was good to see how fine this chap looked in this hat and I wonder if I am the only man who was in the audience who immediately started budgeting to buy himself one at some time?

 

[Yeps]

I have a question for the fine gentlemen of this establishment:
How do you crease, if at all, your homburgs? The most common I have seen, is a simple center dent with no pinches or anything of the sort, but I know there is room for variation. Thoughts?

 

[mayserwegener]

I have a question for the fine gentlemen of this establishment:
How do you crease, if at all, your homburgs? The most common I have seen, is a simple center dent with no pinches or anything of the sort, but I know there is room for variation. Thoughts?

I always go with center crease and both pinch and no pinch. When I pinch I go back towards the center never tight.

Like this.

 

[StetsonHomburg]

My first Vintage hat... Late 1950's Vintage Stetson Royal De Luxe Homburg

 

[The Good]

My first Vintage hat... Late 1950's Vintage Stetson Royal De Luxe Homburg

Now that's a gorgeous homburg. I actually would really like to acquire a lighter grey homburg with a black ribbon, such as the one you own. That color seems like it can work well with regular lounge/business suits, and perhaps sport coats too, but not black tie/formal attire, I believe. A black homburg would fit in there.

 

[Cordite Blues]

The homburg is the hat of choice by most for black tie (i.e. the tuxedo). The only other "correct" hat is the top hat, and many don't like the look.

I was under the impression that a boater was also correct for (summer) black tie affairs....

CB.

 

[mayserwegener]

Now that's a gorgeous homburg. I actually would really like to acquire a lighter grey homburg with a black ribbon, such as the one you own. That color seems like it can work well with regular lounge/business suits, and perhaps sport coats too, but not black tie/formal attire, I believe. A black homburg would fit in there.

The original Homburgs (see Edward VII) were grey. They were not always worn in formal business / government settings. The black ones came later. The Homburg eventually became the hat of business / government elite. Today I am not sure any of this really applies. I wear my Homburgs mostly in informal settings.

Edward VII wearing a Homburg

Edward VII wearing a hunting Homburg (the dress Homburg was based on this style hat, see Wilhelm II who was Edwards nephew).

 

[Chinaski]

I'm glad you can wear it informally, Mayser. Speaking personally, it feels like a formal hat to me. I remember going with my Grandfather as a youngster, when the Hunts were trying to corner the silver market and gold was at a peak somewhere around $800 an ounce (sometime around '74.) My Grandfather had a bunch of Krugeraands and cashed them in for an ungodly amount of money. He was wearing a cashmere coat and homburg. He bought us a steak dinner that night. Truly memorable for a very young man.

 

[mayserwegener]

I'm glad you can wear it informally, Mayser. Speaking personally, it feels like a formal hat to me. I remember going with my Grandfather as a youngster, when the Hunts were trying to corner the silver market and gold was at a peak somewhere around $800 an ounce (sometime around '74.) My Grandfather had a bunch of Krugeraands and cashed them in for an ungodly amount of money. He was wearing a cashmere coat and homburg. He bought us a steak dinner that night. Truly memorable for a very young man.

Yes I agree that it became the hat of business and government elite (not sure it applies today though). Look at the picture of Edward above. He is not wearing one in a formal situation.

Wilhelm II hunting Homburgs (thank Dreispitz for this find).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkdHYKM9d_I

 

[Chinaski]

I completely accept anyone wearing a homburg in an informal situation. I say go for it! It's just hard to overcome one's gut instincts, if that makes sense. And looking at Edward VII, I must say his hunting attire is more formal than most of the formal wear I own or wear. The world is definitely more casual...

 

[mayserwegener]

I completely accept anyone wearing a homburg in an informal situation. I say go for it! It's just hard to overcome one's gut instincts, if that makes sense. And looking at Edward VII, I must say his hunting attire is more formal than most of the formal wear I own or wear. The world is definitely more casual...

Yes but that was casual for his time / place. He is sitting on a park bench, not conducting government business or attending an opera performance.

Also take a look at this picture (posted by RLK). The black fellow in the lower left corner is wearing a Homburg.

I agree in general it became the hat of business and government (also gangsters). Today that is no longer the case for business men and government officials.

 

[Lokar]

I was under the impression that a boater was also correct for (summer) black tie affairs....

CB.

It is, I forgot to mention it. Probably because we've had snow for 5 months and the concept of summer has been lost upon me.

 

[boushi_mania]

'60s(?) Saks Fifth Avenue

I just got this hat, through my parents back in the States. It's a Saks Fifth Avenue model; not sure of the age, but I'd guess '60s or later, considering the construction and just how stingy it turned out to be in person.

The hat is midnight blue, which is a bit of a disappointment since I was told it was black. It'd be fine in the evening, but if I wear it during the day, I feel it'll be pretty obvious.

The brim is also more of a pencil curl, and somewhat less stiff than I was expecting:

Despite these deficiencies, the hat at least appears to be well-made, and little-used, if at all. The felt has a pretty nice hand (I suspect it's a velour finish), if somewhat thin. It wouldn't hold a pinch dry, but it might with some steam. The lining is immaculate.

A look inside:

The sweatband is sewn in well, and is still supple. There is one spot where one or two stitches are ever so slightly loose, but it's still in there pretty well. It is also clearly a 7¼, though the actual fit is somewhat tighter (though not unwearable).

"SAKS FIFTH AVENUE" is apparent on both the liner and sweatband; the original owner's initials ("GBK") are also done in gold-tone foil:

Turning out the sweatband, I have confirmation of the color, as well as a possible lead on the date. (5904 could be April 1959, or completely irrelevant; when would a hat like this have sold for $20?)

On the head, courtesy of my fiancée. It's pretty snug for a 7¼...

So... hmm. I don't entirely dislike it, but it's definitely not the hat I was expecting. I probably paid about what the hat is actually worth (or maybe a little less), but I feel as though I paid more than what it's worth to me. Maybe I'll give it to my mom, who seemed to grow fond of it before she finally sent it along.

Thoughts?

 

[daizawaguy]

Like it Sir! :eusa_clap Keep it for your collection. With the `stache it gives your a few more years than your deserve, but as a varied look, its great. Happy wearing...

 

[Brad Bowers]

It's probably '50s, though it could be '60s. Hat Corporation of America (Dobbs/Cavanagh/Knox) made the hats for Saks Fifth Avenue, so it has a good pedigree. 5904 is just the reorder number, not a dating system.

I think you ought to keep it, it looks good on you.

Brad

 

[Mr E Train]

Channeling mayserwegener...

 

[Scotus]

I just got this hat, through my parents back in the States. It's a Saks Fifth Avenue model; not sure of the age, but I'd guess '60s or later, considering the construction and just how stingy it turned out to be in person.

Thoughts?

Well, I think it's very nice! I think you have a great Homburg there.

 

[mayserwegener]

Very nice Homburg! :eusa_clap Works fine in a casual setting today (also did to some degree in the past).

 

[jeffconnors]

60's Mallory

This hat dosent know what size it is, tagged as 7 1/8 measured out to be close to a 7 3/8 or a big 7 1/4...very weird, mistakes???[huh]

I love the color!
Brim has that "long time in a box" dust compaction that is very hard to brush out