Details and Options

[Jovan]

Fascinating. The ad describes the common 6x2 as we call it as a "three button double breasted style." Similarly, the other two are referred to as "two button."

 

[cookie]

The 30s Golden Age suits.

I have just watched the new series of the Agatha Christie series of Hercule Poirot - a British production.Tonight's episode was Murder on the Nile and was actually a bit better than the film - methinks.

Anyway we had a stunning arrray of 30s cream linen (almost Palm Beach cloth quality) suits of the jacket plus 8 button darty bits at the ends waistcoat style (for Poirot and the head murderer) accompanied by Poirot with a fetching straw Homburg and the other guy with a raffish straw Fedora, the Jungle Jim/big white hunter in town for resupply style linen suit for the titled Bolshevik, a Belt back and other British double breasters (James Fox in second appearance as the Brit policeman) and for all you desperates (see thread on when to wear a Fez) it was Fez wearers a go go among the locals and policemen.

The whole scene was Fedora Lounge heaven/nirvana where we were all get transported (not to Botany Bay) but back to our true intended generation instead of the accidental boring 70s etc drudgery and we do it on an Edwardian era paddle wheel steamer called Karnak. See you at the the Third cataract right?

I digress - the real question is how did they all walk around in the Egyptian sun in all this clobber? This relates to the question re Aussies in the 30s. Why? - because they did! They were used to it - it was the way it was - people simply wore more clothing and put up with it. Like some guys get used to wearing a suit all the time and do not get troubled by wearing it all year round.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Like some guys get used to wearing a suit all the time and do not get troubled by wearing it all year round.

From experience, it's more the environment that has difficulties in getting used to your wearing a suit than you yourself.

Anyways, today's fabrics are lighter and, unless plastic, at least as permeable to air, and apart from that, you can opt for quarter lining. If I afford myself a tailor-made suit for the warmer seasons, I'll probably do that, at least in case cut and cloth of the suit don't look different then.

 

[Jovan]

One of the coolest "desert suits" I've seen is the Marrakesh at Magnoli clothiers. Looks really comfortable, and very 1930s.

 

[herringbonekid]

late 20s/early 30s waist adjuster:

note the buckle is attatched with a piece of muslin backing only. these would have been a cheap pair of trousers for the average working man.


(not my photo, or trousers)

 

[mdavids2000]

Today on a street market here in Amsterdam i found a original 1930's suit, the ask $5,- euro. So the din't know

 

[Jovan]

Wow.

What size and how much?

 

[Mr. Rover]

Pointed or Rounded lapels?

Getting my suit in Shanghai showed me how little details can vary from tailor to tailor. Basically, the Chinese have very little style know-how. You tell three tailors to make you a peak lapel, you'll get 3 very different looking things. You have to be as specific as possible.
When I got my jacket for the fitting today, I noticed that the lapel on my DB jacket looked a little off...the lapels were TOO pointy. So, I asked the tailor to round off the tip....and at the time it seemed right to round off the collar side of the lapel, too. Was that the right choice?
The jacket from Amsterdam above has very defined edges, but on some of the American stuff, the lapels are much more rounded.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

amsterdam suit great. The photos are reversed, right?

Where (what part of amsterdam) was the street market?

bk

 

[mdavids2000]

This part of Amsterdam:

http://www.euronet.nl/users/edusoft/waterloo/indexeng.html

 

[GBR]

Besom Pocket

Also known as a double jetted pocket in UK and double piped pocket in Hong Kong.

 

[Anthony Jordan]

This part of Amsterdam:

http://www.euronet.nl/users/edusoft/waterloo/indexeng.html

Ah yes - perhaps one day my wife will let me visit!

 

[mdavids2000]

Ah yes - perhaps one day my wife will let me visit!

Will be nice just let us know

 

[reetpleat]

I am afraid that if loungers think that they can find suits like that in Amsterdam for five euros, you will be overwhelmed with visitors.

So, does the suit fit you. Pics of you in it if you can.

 

[Feraud]

A random trouser with a rear adjustment.

Front detail of same pants

Rear of lapel button hole on tuxedo.
I assume the string at the lower end is to hold the stem of a flower in place. A nifty detail.

Front of jacket

Rear adjustment of tux pants that go with the above jacket

Side pocket button

Side waist adjustment on pair of pants.

Another waist adjuster that buttons. From an emerald green/gold sharkskin suit.

Yep, they are really this color!

Working sleeve buttons from a tweed suit.

 

[Shearer]

Feraud - The green sharkskin is even better in person!

The first pair of pants and first jacket are great... thread stitch for a flower stem? Awesome!

 

[Feraud]

Feraud - The green sharkskin is even better in person!

The first pair of pants and first jacket are great... thread stitch for a flower stem? Awesome!

The first pair of pants is such an amazing textile! If I had a suit in that material I would be thrilled beyond words.

I loooove the sharkskin.

 

[Nigel Fisher]

Great thread! Very helpful to those of us who have very little experience or knowledge in the area.

 

[Feraud]

The first pair of pants and first jacket are great... thread stitch for a flower stem? Awesome!

I think Mr.Rover has a dinner jacket with a similar feature. I recall him discussing this feature.

 

[Justdog]

Belt Back 3

Yes...

Belt Back 3 That! Is one nice jacket