Leather defect Double Helix Deviant

[Aloysius]

And i have also yet to here a definitive explanation as to why shinki is "the best" even from these heritage influencers. All i hear is about how extensive their tanning process is, the sheen and how pliable it is. All of which you can probably name a ton other tanneries that produce something equivalent

Because it's Japanese and RMC uses it. That is the real reason it gets declared such. Taps into some weeb essence.

The irony of this is that it has led expensive makers to use some of Shinki's cheap leather like their shell, which even cheap shoe makers dismissed a decade ago, because the workwear guys demand Shinki in everything.

 

[philli]

Because it's Japanese and RMC uses it. That is the real reason it gets declared such. Taps into some weeb essence.

The irony of this is that it has led expensive makers to use some of Shinki's cheap leather like their shell, which even cheap shoe makers dismissed a decade ago, because the workwear guys demand Shinki in everything.

to me that is basically the equivalent of paying a premium for brand names. I thought heritage guys were supposed to be better and evaluate something objectively for its quality. Not simply declaring it best due to a hype train.

This is not to bash on shinki by the way, i still think they produce great leather. I just think its a bit blown out of proportion

 

[codex]

just needed to jump on here and say, with my limited scope I think double helix horsehide is not that far off from shinki. Similar sheen, better smelling, and equally pliable after breaking it in. I've now handled rainbow country shinki and the semi aniline horsehide from double helix.

Double helix horsehide also goes through an extensive pit tanning process. I find that their leather ages really well. Zero QC issues with their jackets from my experience as well. I still don't know why theres so much craze about shinki, don't get me wrong it is great but there are so many other solid contenders out there.

And i have also yet to here a definitive explanation as to why shinki is "the best" even from these heritage influencers. All i hear is about how extensive their tanning process is, the sheen and how pliable it is. All of which you can probably name a ton other tanneries that produce something equivalent

Where did you hear/see that their leather undergoes pit tanning?
Don't get me wrong, love their leather.

 

[philli]

I remember reading it somewhere. Could be wrong though. But definitely doesn’t take away from the quality of the leather

 

[dmash]

It's just possibly bothering you as it's that one area. Keep wearing it and get more of those areas and then you'll likely *love* it. Wear looks cool on every leather IMO. I actually can't stand the new look and try to expedite creasing and patina by wearing as much as possible when new haha.

 

[dmash]

Because it's Japanese and RMC uses it. That is the real reason it gets declared such. Taps into some weeb essence.

The irony of this is that it has led expensive makers to use some of Shinki's cheap leather like their shell, which even cheap shoe makers dismissed a decade ago, because the workwear guys demand Shinki in everything.

hey just curious, you got more info on Shinki shell being considered inferior? I'd like to read up on this. I'm completely out of the loop on shell products as was never a massive fan, but interested in possibly doing a custom shell engineer and am obviously steering away from Shinki if this is known. Horween is SOOO expensive for most makers and Maryam seems to be the best 'bang for buck' choice from what I'm seeing.

 

[JonS1967]

Where did you hear/see that their leather undergoes pit tanning?
Don't get me wrong, love their leather.

Matsuda confirmed with me that the Nitta tannery pit tans their leather. I believe I posted this a while back in the DH thread.

 

[dmash]

Matsuda confirmed with me that the Nitta tannery pit tans their leather. I believe I posted this a while back in the DH thread.

Makes me like DH even more from a bang for buck perspective. I been telling people forever DH is a sleeper best buy brand (I really like Y2 as well). I also like that theyre cut comfortably for western body types too.

 

[philli]

Makes me like DH even more from a bang for buck perspective. I been telling people forever DH is a sleeper best buy brand (I really like Y2 as well). I also like that theyre cut comfortably for western body types too.

Agreed DH hands down best value for money from leather quality to design patterns.

I feel DH leathers are superior to Y2 but designs are maybe similar level. Also DH has a direct partnership with Nitta tannery

 

[JonS1967]

My DH jackets fit me better than any other brand I’ve tried. I’m lucky they fit my body type so well.

 

[dmash]

Is DH ownership based out of HK and not Japan though? I could have swore when I paid it was affiliated with a biz in HK. Was curious about that and it just popped up in my head.

 

[JonS1967]

Is DH ownership based out of HK and not Japan though? I could have swore when I paid it was affiliated with a biz in HK. Was curious about that and it just popped up in my head.

Nope. 100% Japan as far as I know.

 

[JonS1967]

Makes me like DH even more from a bang for buck perspective. I been telling people forever DH is a sleeper best buy brand (I really like Y2 as well). I also like that theyre cut comfortably for western body types too.

Part of me really wants an RC Highwayman, but then I think I’d be better off just getting a mildly customized DH instead.

 

[Aloysius]

to me that is basically the equivalent of paying a premium for brand names. I thought heritage guys were supposed to be better and evaluate something objectively for its quality. Not simply declaring it best due to a hype train.

This is not to bash on shinki by the way, i still think they produce great leather. I just think its a bit blown out of proportion

Well yeah it's exactly brand name culture just about Japanese makers and which tannery. It's not like tailoring enthusiasts who are driven by cut and so on, but then at the same time even among tailoring customers there are people who go to the tailors because of the name and treat it like some kind of version of a luxury brand.

hey just curious, you got more info on Shinki shell being considered inferior? I'd like to read up on this. I'm completely out of the loop on shell products as was never a massive fan, but interested in possibly doing a custom shell engineer and am obviously steering away from Shinki if this is known. Horween is SOOO expensive for most makers and Maryam seems to be the best 'bang for buck' choice from what I'm seeing.

Yeah, I mean Shinki shell is a low end cheap leather. That isn't even a bad thing... considering what it is made for. Shinki shell is made for waterproof children's backpacks. It is extremely good for that purpose. It would be dumb to give it the kind of process Horween does if it's going for a sturdy waterproof children's bag.

But because Shinki's garment leather (which actually is a high end product) got so much attention via workwear culture, people started demanding boots made of "Shinki shell".

Bear in mind that as of 2010 even the super cheap Spanish shoe makers dismissed using Shinki shell because it was dirt cheap but not good enough to use for shoes; today workwear guys are buying 4 figure boots made of it, due to Shinki hype.

 

[Harris HTM]

you got more info on Shinki shell being considered inferior?

even the super cheap Spanish shoe makers dismissed using Shinki shell because it was dirt cheap but not good enough to use for shoes;

I currently own 6 pairs of Horween shell cordovan boots/shoes (Alden and Carmina) and 3 belts (Carmina and Crockett n Jones). And one Meermin pair made of Shinki shell. Although obviously the statistic sample is small I can verify that the two shell hides, Horween and Shinki, are worlds apart. Strange enough the shell used in all my Aldens and C&J is better than the one used in all my Carminas, all being Horween.

 

[dmash]

I currently own 6 pairs of Horween shell cordovan boots/shoes (Alden and Carmina) and 3 belts (Carmina and Crockett n Jones). And one Meermin pair made of Shinki shell. Although obviously the statistic sample is small I can verify that the two shell hides, Horween and Shinki, are worlds apart. Strange enough the shell used in all my Aldens and C&J is better than the one used in all my Carminas, all being Horween.

I just ordered a pair of whiskey shell Crockett loafer from overseas and patiently awaiting their arrival. Can’t wait to see them in person!

 

[Harris HTM]

I just ordered a pair of whiskey shell Crockett loafer from overseas and patiently awaiting their arrival. Can’t wait to see them in person!

You will be more than happy, C&J make excellent shoes and their whiskey shell is amazing.