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How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

Herrvallmo

One Too Many
Messages
1,156
Location
Sweden
Got this beautiful selvedge denim jacket delivered yesterday, maybe a bit to early for a denim jacket lol, but I found it for a great deal so I took the plunge :D

It's from Red Tornado in China and I really like how the shawl collar plays with the "western cut", very nice!

Some pics
IMG_20260116_033909.jpg
IMG_20260116_033931.jpg


IMG_20260116_030456.jpg IMG_20260116_030516.jpg IMG_20260116_030604.jpg IMG_20260116_030504.jpg

Cheers!"
 

AHP91

One Too Many
Messages
1,478
So it was you. Nice. Was surprised it went so quickly at that price.

Is there a size tag in the coin pocket?

A buddy of mine was upset he missed out on it. This jacket was listed as a 38 but he thought it might be a 42 or 44. If you decide to sell, let me know.
The size tag is faded but it looks like a 42, and the measurements line up with vintage 42.
 

AHP91

One Too Many
Messages
1,478
Interesting. My size 42 measures 22”

View attachment 762971 View attachment 762972

It’s also pretty short at 22.5” in the back back which is only 0.5” longer than all my size 38s
I am far from an expert but I remember reading that the first iterations of this jacket were only offered in black horsehide. I recall looking at measurements of late 40s becks and they had different measurements to the earlier jackets. Don’t have it in front of me but I also think my jacket is longer than 22.5”

This seller has an early one, black horsehide tag size 44, same zippers as mine, with the measurements indicated below.


IMG_5438.png
 
Last edited:

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,390
Location
Philadelphia
I am far from an expert but I remember reading that the first iterations of this jacket were only offered in black horsehide. I recall looking at measurements of late 40s becks and they had different measurements to the earlier jackets. Don’t have it in front of me but I also think my jacket is longer than 22.5”

This seller has an early one, black horsehide tag size 44, same zippers as mine, with the measurements indicated below.


View attachment 762985

Yup, this one is like mine and yours. Early 40’s horsehide with the solid color lining and the early silk screened rayon label.

Not sure about the first iterations, but the earliest ones I’ve ever seen have been mid 30’s and I’ve seen them in black and brown goatskin.

Here’s one in brown goatskin. Has a 30’s fan talon grommet zipper. Haven’t seen any of these Becks that are earlier than this.

IMG_1262.jpeg
 

AHP91

One Too Many
Messages
1,478
Yup, this one is like mine and yours. Early 40’s horsehide with the solid color lining and the early silk screened rayon label.

Not sure about the first iterations, but the earliest ones I’ve ever seen have been mid 30’s and I’ve seen them in black and brown goatskin.

Here’s one in brown goatskin. Has a 30’s fan talon grommet zipper. Haven’t seen any of these Becks that are earlier than this.

View attachment 763002
Yes and that jacket has the tag most commonly associated with the later becks, as opposed to the “silk/rayon” tags, unless someone added it later or something.

Also the construction of that pocket flap is a bit more primitive, older looking, and is one of the few that looks like the one on mine. Tough to say anything definitively.

Here are the two ads you previously posted, of course we know the writings in these books were sometimes flawed. Using older sourced zippers later was often prevalent, as you know.





IMG_5440.png
IMG_5439.png
 
Last edited:

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,390
Location
Philadelphia
Yes and that jacket has the tag most commonly associated with the later becks, as opposed to the “silk/rayon” tags, unless someone added it later or something.

The early goatskin jackets from the 30’s have a woven label.

Here’s a black goatskin from the 30’s that features a woven label.

IMG_1263.jpeg

IMG_1264.jpeg



Early 40’s jackets like mine and yours feature the silk screened label. That was short lived and by the mid 40’s it went back to a woven label.


Also the construction of that pocket flap is a bit more primitive, older looking, and is one of the few that looks like the one on mine. Tough to say anything definitively.

What do you mean? It should have grommets on the corners of the outside flap. And then on the pocket itself, the upper corners should be double tacked. Is yours different from that?

Here are the two ads you previously posted, of course we know the writings in these books were sometimes flawed. Using older sourced zippers later was often prevalent, as you know.





View attachment 763004 View attachment 763005

Yeah obviously seeing the one from the 30’s in brown goatskin that I posted above kind of throws all that out the window. Even the super old Becks (before the Schott partnership) were offered in brown (cordovan or mahogany)

Ad from 1928
IMG_1265.jpeg



Note the model number “333” is a completely different style of jacket in the late 20’s. It’s all aviation.
 

AHP91

One Too Many
Messages
1,478
The early goatskin jackets from the 30’s have a woven label.

Here’s a black goatskin from the 30’s that features a woven label.

View attachment 763006
View attachment 763007


Early 40’s jackets like mine and yours feature the silk screened label. That was short lived and by the mid 40’s it went back to a woven label.




What do you mean? It should have grommets on the corners of the outside flap. And then on the pocket itself, the upper corners should be double tacked. Is yours different from that?



Yeah obviously seeing the one from the 30’s in brown goatskin that I posted above kind of throws all that out the window. Even the super old Becks (before the Schott partnership) were offered in brown (cordovan or mahogany)

Ad from 1928
View attachment 763008


Note the model number “333” is a completely different style of jacket in the late 20’s. It’s all aviation.
I am not looking to argue - just noting it’s peculiar that their top of the line jackets were advertised in the finest horsehide of the day, while the only jackets with the 30s era talon zippers (that I’ve seen) have been on goatskin variations. It seems logical that a new standout model jacket would be put out in horsehide, but of course anything is possible. Perhaps you have an idea of why goatskin came before horsehide.
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,390
Location
Philadelphia
I am not looking to argue -

Me neither. Just having a discussion.

just noting it’s peculiar that their top of the line jackets were advertised in the finest horsehide of the day, while the only jackets with the 30s era talon zippers (that I’ve seen) have been on goatskin variations.

Apologies, I didn’t see where you noted that, was just responding to what you said.

Initially you said the first iterations of this jacket were only offered in black horsehide and I just pointed out the earliest iterations were offered in both brown and black goatskin and showed an example of a brown goatskin jacket with a 30’s zipper and a woven label.

You then said that label is most commonly associated with the later becks, as opposed to the “silk/rayon” tags, suggesting it might have been added after the fact. I responded with another example of an early woven label on a 30’s goatskin jacket showing that it couldn’t have been added later.

It seems logical that a new standout model jacket would be put out in horsehide, but of course anything is possible. Perhaps you have an idea of why goatskin came before horsehide.

Thats a good question.

Your guess is as good as mine as to why we only see the early 30’s ones in goatskin.

I’d imagine cost has something to do with it.

It seems logical because horsehide was definitely the choice leather of those days, but not necessarily considered top of the line/exotic/special/luxury. That was more reserved for calfskin, capeskin, suede, goatskin. And sometimes even pony skin was also advertised as being an upgrade to horsehide. In fact, if you look at old catalogs goatskin is often the most expensive option.

If it was a standout model, maybe they wanted to produce it in goatskin first which is a “premium” leather as horses were everywhere and horsehide was cheaper than goatskin.

I’ve seen 40’s ones in sheepskin (or capeskin) as well that don’t have any leather designation on the label so they definitely weren’t afraid of using other leathers than horse.

IMG_4139.jpeg
IMG_4141.jpeg
IMG_4142.jpeg
IMG_4147.jpeg
 

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