Waxed jackets: the thread

[RDS]

I couldn’t agree more, and although Barbour make much of their history and heritage they are now really a luxury fashion brand.
Of course, there’s nothing wrong with this at all as they’ve been very successful in what they do. It’s also entirely possible that if they hadn’t taken a change of direction Barbour might not still be in private ownership or even in existence.
Personally, if wanting some good but reasonably priced, practical ‘country’ clothing I would now first look at the range offered by Hoggs of Fife in Scotland.

And back to wax jackets; in the UK (and it’s probably the same elsewhere) waxed cotton clothing is now rarely worn by those for whom it was originally designed i.e. sailors, fishermen, farmers, agricultural workers, anglers, horse riders, game shooters, etc.
The majority of those who either work in these industries or take part in ‘country’ pursuits are now more often than not seen in a whole variety of other clothing for the simple reason they find these more practical or versatile than a wax proof.
It’s probably the case that Barbour wax jackets are now more likely to be seen worn in cities (or Glastonbury) rather than in the country.

 

[Peter Mackin]

I work on the hills daily, come hail rain or snow,working with guide dogs,spaniels and my flatcoat retriever. Due to the wet climate here in Scotland wax cotton is my go to clothing,the fashion stuff wouldn't last a season. During winter my trusty (30)yr old riding coat does the business, it's been reproofed many times, brilliant coat.
Bought a fairly recent Barbour bushman in leather off Ebay, couldn't believe how the quality had dropped, had Barbour check it out as I thought it must be fake,,nope its the real deal, the snaps and the brass belt hole fixings are thin and sharp.

 

[Will Zach]

I bought a few Drizabone items on a trip to Australia many years back. Brilliant stuff, but had really no use for it in NY metro area. Just did not rain enough, so it just hung in the closet. Sold it.

Later I bought a waxed Gustin field jacket in green. That was also a few years back. Well-made, with reinforced seams and a beefy zipper, was nevertheless pretty useless in colder weather because it had no lining. So I had a local tailor sew in a few buttons and added an M-65 button-in liner to it. That did the trick! I now have a waxed field coat for late fall - works down to about zero Celsius and stops cold wind nicely. I will try to post some pics when I am back in Europe this fall.

 

[Grayland]

I have a Barbour jacket that I get compliments on every time I wear it. I think of them as civilian field jackets. The big negative I have is that they don't breathe well and are very clammy. They look cool, but I can't imagine actually working in one - let alone just walk around for any longer than 10 minutes.

 

[Tim S]

Waxed suede or roughout trucker is great, especially when the weather is iffy or conditions get a little difficult. I don't like wax cotton because the wax tends to get a little too close to the skin and feels a little funny, especially on the collar or wrists. On leather, it doesn't penetrate deeply. Waxed smooth leather looks good as it ages. I don't have pictures of my waxed roughout trucker but thinking of getting another.

 

[RDS]

My two current Barbour jackets. The first is a Solway Zipper, which I now think is probably at least 25 years old, and the other is a Bushman, which is somewhere around a year or two younger.
The Solway Zipper hasn’t yet had its annual re-wax but I’ll try to get around to doing this in the next week or two.

 

[zebedee]

I bought a Rogue Territory Supply Jacket (unlined). I doubt that it would hold up to heavy rain, but it's a functional and fairly attractive thing. I don't like heavier waxed jackets - to me, they'd need to be totally functional. The smell is what does my head in.

 

[One Drop]

I'm a big fan of waxed jackets. I think they still have a place in more than the urban fashion space where they have become immensely popular (Which I can understand, their waterproof qualities work best for city living where they are rarely used for high exertion activities.

But I am careful to wear my Freenote Cloth Waxed Rider jacket and Schaefer Outfitter High Plains Drifter coat in the right conditions, meaning avoiding them when I will be doing more than moderate activity, pr if the westher is expected to warm up seriously while I'm wearing it, in those cases I prefer a modern lightweight outer layer that I can take off and stow in a pocket or roll up and tie around my waist.

But for 0° - 10°C and rainy to storm conditions they are perfect for dog walking, casual wear, or any other low to medium exertion activities. I have no problem layering under them as needed, wool layers or at minimum a Merino short or long sleeve first layer is crucial to keep from feeling clammy and the attendant dangers of this as the temperature drops or as you exert yourself less.

I can seriously recommend the Schaefer Outfitter Rangewax jackets, they are designed for maximum movement and comfort, and are very well made with very well performing materials. They are easy to vent when it gets warm and the small details like snaps, pockets, waist drawstring on the longer ones, etc., are well though put and extremely practical. They are well priced and a very good value, IMO. I think of them as the Western styled version of the best UK made Barbour jackets, practical and high quality, and cut for real work and maximum comfort.

 

[Mawashi]

Hey all,

I've been MIA for years but I am thinking of a waxed down parka for travel to wet, cold Prague in winter.
This caught my eye and I'm really intrigue about waxed stuff compared to the usual Moose Knuckles, Canada Goose, Pyrenex etc.
https://www.manifatturaceccarelli.com/it/fisherman-parka-7026-wx.html
And on taobao
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?ab...c5b01928165eae75e70c6a411a"}&**c=taobaoSearch

There is a DW version which according to Manifattura Ceccarelli reactivates the waterproofing when you put it in a hot place like a dryer but I think I rather stick to the waxed version... Any though guys?

 

[One Drop]

Hey all,

I've been MIA for years but I am thinking of a waxed down parka for travel to wet, cold Prague in winter.
This caught my eye and I'm really intrigue about waxed stuff compared to the usual Moose Knuckles, Canada Goose, Pyrenex etc.
https://www.manifatturaceccarelli.com/it/fisherman-parka-7026-wx.html
And on taobao
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?abbucket=3&id=754344996142&mi_id=0000iz9LoPFClngoc1dtuQTK4rc7XYbDmOypCeElyQXF7mU&ns=1&priceTId=210149c017659641399685567e0910&skuId=5371305162109&spm=a21n57.1.item.1&utparam={"aplus_abtest":"9468eac5b01928165eae75e70c6a411a"}&**c=taobaoSearch

There is a DW version which according to Manifattura Ceccarelli reactivates the waterproofing when you put it in a hot place like a dryer but I think I rather stick to the waxed version... Any though guys?

They are wonderful coats and jackets, well made and designed, top notch materials. and very fashionable right now.

Personally warmer insulated waxed jackets don't make sense for me because by the time I need that amount of insulation it's cold enough to snow and not rain, for in between weathers I prefer to layer under an uninsulated or lightly insulated waxed jacket or coat.

But if I lived in a Northern European city I'd consider one like this myself, as it's not practical to wear layers to work or for shopping, eating out, or urban living in general, where you just want to be able to have one layer over your indoor clothing.

I have no experience with their DW version but it doesn't make a lot of sense for me on a down jacket, because down loses its loft and insulation properties when wet - I'd think a waxed outer layer would be preferable?

Another thing - a goosedown jacket with 800/850 insulation is WARM, meaning you'll probably be hot wearing it on anything but days too cold for rain if you are doing any real exertion like long walks.

In other words, it's a tough decision and you really have to consider in what temperatures you'll be using it and for what levels of exertion. As far as I know it's often hovering around freezing in Prague in winter, and often enough quite a bit below, so you might get some good use out of it often enough in the event of the latter.

If it was me, I'd go straight to the coolest and most versatile one they make, the Alligator jacket in wool. It's just so gorgeous and would be fine for anything but long exposure to heavy rain, and you could get a much less expensive cloth or nylon lined waxed jacket for those conditions instead. The Charcoal one can be worn anywhere with anything, the Navy is also versatile and looks a bit dressier with the smooth satin finish :

https://www.manifatturaceccarelli.com/it/alligator-jacket-7028-qr.html

 

[Mawashi]

Thanks One Drop,

Here the thing at least u have a reason to get something like this. My dilemma is I'm in Singapore and may only use it 1-2x a year.

Sorry to derail this thread as it's headed towards wool instead of waxed cotton but here goes nothing.

I going to focus on the insulation layer as depending on what I'm wearing, I can really layer enough for the worst conditions. I'm thinking of a decathlon Mt500 under my UNUSED Ted Baker Marvin coat if, it doesn't puff up to much and makes my Marvin look like a balloon.

Since, I'm already looking for another decent cold weather travel coat, I'll throw some brands like Pte White VC (their model Simon is almost exactly my size albeit a bit taller but slimmer than me so I know how their stuff should fit me) or a vintage but sharp looking vintage wool overcoat from ebay (slim lapels and water resistant).

The alligator jacket looks fine but it looks too much like a safari jacket albeit a wool safari jacket. I'm a little biased against safari stuff as my parents though it would be a good idea to tailor a wool safari suit when I was 5. If I could find that itchy ******* I'll burn it. It's still a strong contender though as it does look really fine.

I haven't much luck with pea or bridge coats as the huge lapels are unflattering on me nor, a chore/work coat, I'm trying to dress up not down.

Any findings on ebay, or other recommendations would be really appreciated!

I'll leave with a real doozy, I found a similar or exact waxed fisherman's down parka on taobao for much cheaper lol:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=998074566010&mi_id=0000sVo2NuAIHd_FkHtqyrp31mw8OEyyMl8rNH9QkZnyegQ&spm=a21xtw.29178619.0.0&sku_properties=1627207:148279659

 

[Jon Crow]

I couldn’t agree more, and although Barbour make much of their history and heritage they are now really a luxury fashion brand.
Of course, there’s nothing wrong with this at all as they’ve been very successful in what they do. It’s also entirely possible that if they hadn’t taken a change of direction Barbour might not still be in private ownership or even in existence.
Personally, if wanting some good but reasonably priced, practical ‘country’ clothing I would now first look at the range offered by Hoggs of Fife in Scotland.

And back to wax jackets; in the UK (and it’s probably the same elsewhere) waxed cotton clothing is now rarely worn by those for whom it was originally designed i.e. sailors, fishermen, farmers, agricultural workers, anglers, horse riders, game shooters, etc.
The majority of those who either work in these industries or take part in ‘country’ pursuits are now more often than not seen in a whole variety of other clothing for the simple reason they find these more practical or versatile than a wax proof.
It’s probably the case that Barbour wax jackets are now more likely to be seen worn in cities (or Glastonbury) rather than in the country.

Very expensive here in Madrid especially El Corte Ingles which used to be Marks & Spencer, but as you said, worn here in the big city by those who can

 

[Jon Crow]

Years ago motorcycle riding up on the east coast England in winter I wore one similar to this, and Goldtop boots

 

[One Drop]

Thanks One Drop,

Here the thing at least u have a reason to get something like this. My dilemma is I'm in Singapore and may only use it 1-2x a year.

Sorry to derail this thread as it's headed towards wool instead of waxed cotton but here goes nothing.

I going to focus on the insulation layer as depending on what I'm wearing, I can really layer enough for the worst conditions. I'm thinking of a decathlon Mt500 under my UNUSED Ted Baker Marvin coat if, it doesn't puff up to much and makes my Marvin look like a balloon.

Since, I'm already looking for another decent cold weather travel coat, I'll throw some brands like Pte White VC (their model Simon is almost exactly my size albeit a bit taller but slimmer than me so I know how their stuff should fit me) or a vintage but sharp looking vintage wool overcoat from ebay (slim lapels and water resistant).

The alligator jacket looks fine but it looks too much like a safari jacket albeit a wool safari jacket. I'm a little biased against safari stuff as my parents though it would be a good idea to tailor a wool safari suit when I was 5. If I could find that itchy ******* I'll burn it. It's still a strong contender though as it does look really fine.

I haven't much luck with pea or bridge coats as the huge lapels are unflattering on me nor, a chore/work coat, I'm trying to dress up not down.

Any findings on ebay, or other recommendations would be really appreciated!

I'll leave with a real doozy, I found a similar or exact waxed fisherman's down parka on taobao for much cheaper lol:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=998074566010&mi_id=0000sVo2NuAIHd_FkHtqyrp31mw8OEyyMl8rNH9QkZnyegQ&spm=a21xtw.29178619.0.0&sku_properties=1627207:148279659

The Alligator suggestion was just me seeing a cool jacket I like from them, it didn’t really have much to do with what you were asking about, I admit!

 

[Mawashi]

Hey One Drop,

I'm glad you replied and now I have a whole bunch of options. I just saw a youtube video about waxed G1000 waxed fabric vs a water test... It's help me steer away from waxed stuff for now.

Wool all the way buddy!

 

[ontz]

Archie Wax Jacket in Olive from Jack Murphy of Ireland.

I wear this a lot in fall-winter when it's just above freezing. It has a bit of insulation and I like it over wool layers. In one of the lower pockets lives permanently a pair of leather gloves and in the other a thin worsted wool scarf. This gives me a lot of temperature range throughout the day.

 

[One Drop]

Hey One Drop,

I'm glad you replied and now I have a whole bunch of options. I just saw a youtube video about waxed G1000 waxed fabric vs a water test... It's help me steer away from waxed stuff for now.

Wool all the way buddy!

I'm very familiar with the Fjällraven G-1000 system, it's really great (but not my favorite) for hiking and similar outdoor sports activities, it's main advantage over other waxed fabrics being that it easily machine-washes out and is meant to be used only when needed on their cotton trousers and jackets that are designed to use it as an option.

Because it restricts breathability it's not comfortable for warmer conditions, but can be applied for between seasons, hikes or hunts in rainy regions, etc, and then washed out for the summer months or drier regions or seasons.

IME wax jackets are far more water resistant than you'd think from tests and general discussion, but also way too lacking in breathability for anything but mild exertion unless the temperature is down close to freezing. For urban use, or for most people's real world uses in the countryside, how often or long are you really staying out in a hard rai or torrential downpour? Unless you're hiking or hunting it's probably a non-issue altogether, and a waxed jacket will keep you and your under layers dry, unless of course you start sweating due to exertion, when you quickly wish you had dressed differently as except for wearing the jacket open as there's no way to dump heat, and even then you'll still end up pretty clammy. And most are impossible to tie around your waist or stuff into a pack or bag, you're kind of stuck wearing them.

In short, waxed jackets are amazing in the right conditions, horrible in the wrong ones.

 

[RDS]

As I said further up the thread in the right conditions a wax jacket can be a good option, however the wax waterproofing is almost too good as the rain will just sheet off wetting the thighs of the wearer; and the heavier the rain the more soaked your legs are going to get.

In the wet I wouldn’t wear a waxproof jacket without also wearing waterproof trousers or leggings.

 

[One Drop]

As I said further up the thread in the right conditions a wax jacket can be a good option, however the wax waterproofing is almost too good as the rain will just sheet off wetting the thighs of the wearer; and the heavier the rain the more soaked your legs are going to get.

In the wet I wouldn’t wear a waxproof jacket without also wearing waterproof trousers or leggings.

Great point.

My ¾ length Schaefer Outfitter jacket goes a long way to avoiding this, I wear Carhartt Upland Pants (sadly out of production) with them in those conditions, because when they do get wet they dry quickly while being worn. But rain pants are a must if you’ll be out more than an hour or so in it.

 

[One Drop]

By coincidence, the one local shop that carries these kinds of brands has a Manufattura Ceccarelli New Fisherman jacket in their Dark Green (that has the wool insulation rather than down) on sale, 50% off. The waxed cotton feels very dry and the cotton feels very thick and substantial.

I had forgotten just how good the look and feel of these jackets are in person, the quality is really top notch, the fabrics just feel so good on the hand, the cut and drape is superb, and they look a lot classier in person than they do in photos. It's a very cool company and I love what they are doing with local fabrics and cutting edge designs.

https://www.manifatturaceccarelli.com/en/fisherman-parka-7031-wx.html