Thanks for the comments. I am aware of edges from time to time. I burnished them myself just a wee bit but I’ll wear it for a good while before doing more. It’s not an everyday wear. The platinum band posted a while back is more forgiving for days when I might be using my hands for work projects.
Nice classic ring. That's a very nice star. Also a nice example of direct handcraft.
This would be a comfortable ring for regular wear. Hallmarking isn't that common in the US anymore, so it's nice to have the documentation. I don't own any platinum pieces, but with the current price of gold being what it is, my clients are starting to ask for it. I'm not a fan of plating...for platinum or white gold...my favorite white is 18k palladium. Here in the states, not many folks are familiar with the deeper tones of unplated platinum, since everything over here gets a coat of rhodium, but I think there's something very lustrous about natural pt.
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I've had a chance to go back and read more of the earlier posts, and felt like posting more on the topic. Most of my work in the industry is now private client work specifically in men's rings which have become my niche. These clients are mostly looking for very important, high jewelry pieces, which can impose certain guard rails, but not always. I grew up in a very conservative (some would say the most conservative) part of a fairly conservative country...at least in terms of men's fashion...so all of the men I grew up around were wedding band only, working class guys. My maternal grandfather was pretty wealthy, and he did own one diamond fashion ring, which we in the trade would call a cluster-style mounting where 9 small stones (melee) were lined up in rows to create the impression of a faux, ring-size diamond. It's a long and winding story how I ended up being a recognized jewelry designer in NYC, and I'll spare you the details. What I will say is that men can and should wear as much jewelry as they want; bling is not a barometer of machismo or masculinity, anymore than wearing bright colors—or a fedora—would be. Being noticed isn't a bad thing, and jewelry, particularly rings, are a very intimate and personal statement that can carry significant personal meaning and bring pleasure and satisfaction for decades. I ALWAYS wear rings when I leave the house. (Would you trust a skinny pastry chef?), and my jewelry functions as business cards as well as items of personal adornment. I've never understood small jewelry, so all of my rings are large except for two: a 1917 color fashion ring I inherited from my paternal grandfather, and a sapphire/diamond men's bridal piece I designed 20 years ago that I now wear as a thumb ring. I'm twice divorced—bust just crazy enough to try again—so I don't wear a wedding ring. In fact, my left ring finger is a favorite location for non-wedding rings, just because it's my non-dominant hand and a comfortable location for rings.
Advice:
I think that bands less than 3mm wide look too delicate on most men.
Shanks over 4mm wide half way down the finger (3 and 9 o'clock) can be uncomfortable...particularly if you have pronounced webbing between your fingers and if the design features sharp rims.
Vintage styles often taper to under 2mm under the finger (6 o'clock), which can be a problem for rings with a symmetrical center stone, because the narrow shank is insufficient to keep the ring from tilting on your finger and looking wonky. Such rings work best on the outside of the hand—pinky or index fingers—where the tilting will be less noticeable.
Rings that raise more than 10mm off the finger can be problematic in that they will tend to get smacked around and catch on things. (Some of my personal rings exceed this, but I am aware of this element when designing for clients.)
Opal, tourmaline, tanzanite. beryl (aquamarine, and emerald) and many hardstones (jewelry speak for opaque semiprecious materials...that are ironically rarely very hard) such as turquoise and lapis are sensitive to impact, temperature, and chemicals, so wear them accordingly.
Corundum (rubies and sapphires), garnets, jades, and many agates are tough enough to be worn and cleaned without much concern for durability. Diamonds are the hardest gemstone, but that just means they can scratch everything else, and nothing else can scratch them. Diamonds are NOT tough; they are actually pretty brittle and can cleave and chip quite easily if struck in a way that impacts cleavage planes, etc.
Consider using lab grown materials when you can; they are chemically indistinguishable from their natural counterparts, and will ALWAYS look better than the natural materials most of us can afford. Unless you are buying pieces as an investment (unless you're looking at diamonds...which are almost never a decent investment regardless), you will get much more bang for your buck from lab grown stones. (And keep in mind that I am an unapologetic jewelry snob to an embarrassing degree).
If you have the choice, always take black jade over onyx
Note: the bold font is just to visually separate ideas, and not for emphasis; I couldn't find a way to do ******s, lol!
If you have any jewelry questions, don't hesitate to reach out; if I don't have the answer, I know somebody who does.
I will post pics in the coming days.
Thanks!!
I agree thaat "°" is the degree symbol. I spoke too soon. But I did get the "******" • symbol correct.
John Lofgren Monkey Boots Shinki Horsebuttt - $1,136 The classic monkey boot silhouette in an incredibly rich Shinki russet horse leather. 
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - $395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks. 
Schott 568 Vandals Jacket - $1,250 The classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, in a very special limited-edition Schott double rider style.
These are a testament to the durability of jewelry items...even less expensive, promotional pieces like this one. I would caution that this ring is most likely what we in the trade call "white metal," which back in the 40's and 50's would have been an alloy containing lead and tin...back before the risks of lead were well understood. I probably wouldn't wear this as an everyday piece.Picked up another of these rings, based on some research this is a novelty ring from the 40s/50s. Cool design, the eyes glisten in the ligt.
So many rabbit holes, so little time.Absolutely, and then you sent me wandering the rabbit hole of keyboard shortcuts
Nice! Thanks for sharing
Thanks Vogera!
I studied Gemology & Jewelry in NY too. Went to FIT for a few courses (Jewelry Appraisal, Gem Lab & Diamond Grading). It's just my passion & has been since I was a child. I used to spend lunch hours at my friends FIL's Pawn shop in NY. Picked up many nice things in the late 80's 90's. I still pick up things on the bay...I've had a chance to go back and read more of the earlier posts, and felt like posting more on the topic. Most of my work in the industry is now private client work specifically in men's rings which have become my niche. These clients are mostly looking for very important, high jewelry pieces, which can impose certain guard rails, but not always. I grew up in a very conservative (some would say the most conservative) part of a fairly conservative country...at least in terms of men's fashion...so all of the men I grew up around were wedding band only, working class guys. My maternal grandfather was pretty wealthy, and he did own one diamond fashion ring, which we in the trade would call a cluster-style mounting where 9 small stones (melee) were lined up in rows to create the impression of a faux, ring-size diamond. It's a long and winding story how I ended up being a recognized jewelry designer in NYC, and I'll spare you the details. What I will say is that men can and should wear as much jewelry as they want; bling is not a barometer of machismo or masculinity, anymore than wearing bright colors—or a fedora—would be. Being noticed isn't a bad thing, and jewelry, particularly rings, are a very intimate and personal statement that can carry significant personal meaning and bring pleasure and satisfaction for decades. I ALWAYS wear rings when I leave the house. (Would you trust a skinny pastry chef?), and my jewelry functions as business cards as well as items of personal adornment. I've never understood small jewelry, so all of my rings are large except for two: a 1917 color fashion ring I inherited from my paternal grandfather, and a sapphire/diamond men's bridal piece I designed 20 years ago that I now wear as a thumb ring. I'm twice divorced—bust just crazy enough to try again—so I don't wear a wedding ring. In fact, my left ring finger is a favorite location for non-wedding rings, just because it's my non-dominant hand and a comfortable location for rings.
Advice:
I think that bands less than 3mm wide look too delicate on most men.
Shanks over 4mm wide half way down the finger (3 and 9 o'clock) can be uncomfortable...particularly if you have pronounced webbing between your fingers and if the design features sharp rims.
Vintage styles often taper to under 2mm under the finger (6 o'clock), which can be a problem for rings with a symmetrical center stone, because the narrow shank is insufficient to keep the ring from tilting on your finger and looking wonky. Such rings work best on the outside of the hand—pinky or index fingers—where the tilting will be less noticeable.
Rings that raise more than 10mm off the finger can be problematic in that they will tend to get smacked around and catch on things. (Some of my personal rings exceed this, but I am aware of this element when designing for clients.)
Opal, tourmaline, tanzanite. beryl (aquamarine, and emerald) and many hardstones (jewelry speak for opaque semiprecious materials...that are ironically rarely very hard) such as turquoise and lapis are sensitive to impact, temperature, and chemicals, so wear them accordingly.
Corundum (rubies and sapphires), garnets, jades, and many agates are tough enough to be worn and cleaned without much concern for durability. Diamonds are the hardest gemstone, but that just means they can scratch everything else, and nothing else can scratch them. Diamonds are NOT tough; they are actually pretty brittle and can cleave and chip quite easily if struck in a way that impacts cleavage planes, etc.
Consider using lab grown materials when you can; they are chemically indistinguishable from their natural counterparts, and will ALWAYS look better than the natural materials most of us can afford. Unless you are buying pieces as an investment (unless you're looking at diamonds...which are almost never a decent investment regardless), you will get much more bang for your buck from lab grown stones. (And keep in mind that I am an unapologetic jewelry snob to an embarrassing degree).
If you have the choice, always take black jade over onyx
Note: the bold font is just to visually separate ideas, and not for emphasis; I couldn't find a way to do ******s, lol!
If you have any jewelry questions, don't hesitate to reach out; if I don't have the answer, I know somebody who does.
I will post pics in the coming days.
