1920s Vintage 'Oh My God' Suit

[Rudie]

I don't think he'd be able to do it properly.

 

[Tomasso]

Here's a copyist of some renown who have been at it since 1933.

 

[LuckyKat]

I've been looking for that suit for 10 years...& it is that suit that I will have copied w/ my vintage material...except I prefer baggier pants...unless you want to just sell that one to me ;-) I'll take it!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Here's designer Phineas Cole's version in the latest "Paul Stuart" catalog. It's $1,997.


Apparently, we are all expected to have ballet dancer physiques these days. Our suits ought to fit like ballet costumes, and our trousers should fit like tights.

 

[Tomasso]

Close fitting trousers will not last as long as looser fitting ones. I guess it doesn't mater with a fashion suit.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Close fitting trousers will not last as long as looser fitting ones.

Yep. And 'tight in the thighs' feels especially awful when the wearer is sitting down.

 

[Matt_the_chap]

It looks awful as well when sitting down - there's so much hideous pulling. Tight trousers should be reserved for Michael Flatley and Michael Flatley alone.

 

[Tomasso]

Now here are some trousers that drape even while seated. Nice and comfy.

 

[Yeps]

Here's designer Phineas Cole's version in the latest "Paul Stuart" catalog. It's $1,997.


Apparently, we are all expected to have ballet dancer physiques these days. Our suits ought to fit like ballet costumes, and our trousers should fit like tights.

I would love that suit. Jackets cut like that are great for my build. The slim pants are alright, but they emphasize how skinny I am. I like the trim jacket, full straight trousers. I forget what decade that style was prevalent, but it is my favorite.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I forget what decade that style was prevalent, ...

Trim, very narrow-shouldered jackets with skinny stovepipe trousers were prevalent from about 1920 to about 1923. Among its other sins, the style makes one's head, hands and feet look enormously oversized.

 

[Oldsarge]

He looks like Hugh Laurie's rendition of Bertie Wooster, an upper class twit. Now maybe if the suit actually fit . . .

 

[Yeps]

Trim, very narrow-shouldered jackets with skinny stovepipe trousers were prevalent from about 1920 to about 1923. Among its other sins, the style makes one's head, hands and feet look enormously oversized.

When were trim jackets with baggy trousers around? I know I have seen the look.

 

[Tomasso]

Just after.

 

[Yeps]

Thanks

 

[Nobert]

Trim, very narrow-shouldered jackets with skinny stovepipe trousers were prevalent from about 1920 to about 1923. Among its other sins, the style makes one's head, hands and feet look enormously oversized.

To tell the truth, I've always kind of liked the slim-cut style of the teens/early 20s. Although I've never thought of the pants as being as tight in the groin as the "ballet suit" just posted, and I think of the jackets as more straight cut in the front, giving and almost apron-like effect (especially with the high button stances they used).

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The 1920s "Oh my God" suit goes on eBay tonight.

 

[herringbonekid]

hi Marc,

what tips you off that this suit is late 20s and not early 30s ?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Good question. Answer:

-- The jacket's waist is less surpressed, in the late '20s manner.

-- The jacket's alpaca mohair lining was no longer used by HS&M in the early '30s.

-- The HS&M label design is from the '20s, not the '30s.

-- The trousers' waist is slightly lower (in the '20s manner) than it would have been in the '30s.

-- Single (as opposed to double) forward pleats were an American style that lasted briefly, from the later '20s (when pleats really arrived on the American scene) to about 1930. By the early '30s, double pleats had become universal, and had eclipsed single pleats. Only in the '50s, when Brioni's Italian 'continental' suits took the U.S. by storm, would we see a resurgence of single pleats.

 

[herringbonekid]

Marc you're an authority.

another question: are the pocket bags topstiched on the front of the jacket ? (would like to see how that looks on a smart fabric like that)

thanks,

HBK

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Are the pocket bags topstiched on the front of the jacket ?

Nope.